Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmm there ok

I kinda know the owner kevin lee, been there a few times for specialised things

i dont know about buying a car there tho

they had some descent priced series 2 r33s there when i last went

i probably wouldnt buy anything other than that tho

definately dont buy ne 180 or silvia there

my mate bought a very tidy 180 sx there but that was before it changed hands.There used to be a guy called chai that worked there and he was a cool dude but now not sure.I called them up to see if they had any 2nd hand r33 stoko rims for sale and i got told that they do and wont sell them in pairs but instead a whole set.I told her that a sale was a sale and she got the shits .So i dont know i dont think a particular yard has nothing but all shit i think you will recognise a good car if u see one but a general statement about all imports never judge a car by its km"s

from what i heard they changed the endless brakes to some stockos before he picked up his car.

And get a RACQ check before you get your car. Autoshop dont allow it for the obvisious reason of selling ****ed cars.

He knew they were going to do that they told him.

kev did mention about a few car yards (not mentioning which particular ones.) dont like getting their cars inspected by RACQ. He doesn't really mind it cos he knows he's selling legit cars, albeit a tad more expensive. Anyways thanks for the insight pplz. The time to buy grows closer :(. yayayayayayayayyayayaya :)

"Charge them like a wounded bull" is another.

A particular yard will not always have all "good" cars, or all "crap" cars. Every car is different, you can find absolute gems at dodgy crappy looking yards, and peices of poop at high end well presented yards. Mechanic inspection + a car feeling "right" on the test drive + warranty is the best you can do.

I bought the 34 and I also purchased a Toyota Surf off Kevin and he was always professional and the whole experience was good. I still get everything checked out before I buy though.

He still had some dogs there that I wouldn't even look at.

You'd have to be crazy to buy without checking the car out throughly first .

It pays to shop around.

  • 3 months later...

CYA34 >> I just spoke to Kevin and I might be buying a car from him. From the way he sounded on the phone ... she sounded quite legitimate. Can you tell me what your experience with him was like with buying the R34? (pm me if you dont want to say publically)

cheers mate :mad:

*edit* sorry for bringing up an old thread :rofl:

"Charge them like a wounded bull" is another.

A particular yard will not always have all "good" cars, or all "crap" cars.  Every car is different, you can find absolute gems at dodgy crappy looking yards, and peices of poop at high end well presented yards.  Mechanic inspection + a car feeling "right" on the test drive + warranty is the best you can do.

Sold any EA falcoons for $8k at late? :mad:

I got my car (well actually my girlfriend originally did)

Its still one of the best I have seen mechanically and body and interior wise, it almost like new...but then again she did look around for 8 months nearly 2 years ago before imports really took off...

There are only a couple of places i would not go to, one is along the going past the Gabba and the other is in bowen hills, you know the places I am not here to name names...

I got my car (well actually my girlfriend originally did)

Its still one of the best I have seen mechanically and body and interior wise, it almost like new...but then again she did look around for 8 months nearly 2 years ago before imports really took off...

There are only a couple of places i would not go to, one is along the going past the Gabba and the other is in bowen hills, you know the places I am not here to name names...

actually no I dont *LOL* (I live in Sydney) :wassup:

pm me the names if you like. but I was more concerned about Autoforce, only because I might be buying a car from them soon, so I wanted to clarify their level of ... dodgy-ness :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yucky. Things haven't gotten any better though. Now you have Emerson and Honeywell pushing these massive DCS/Scada things with proprietary hardware. They're not a PLC, they're not a computer, they're a...distibuted PLCish/DCSish monster of thing, that only they can program because they make the barriers to entry for anyone else so fricking high. And their developers are all located in the third/developing world (and India, in case anyone does not include that place in that category) and there are terrible failings of the ESl variety, of the care and common sense variety, and f**king forget about Functional Safety. Not a one of them has any idea what it means to comply with an IEC 615xx series standard.
    • All of the ECU grounds are to the chassis, the IGN grounds are to the cylinder head and i believe all the OEM body harness are left in original locations, im trying to work out if i can tell if the sensor voltage itself is losing any power to it from the very low ECU voltage. But yeah a manual pressure gauge will help in picking which path to actually chase. Also please dont bully my wiring plan i never designed it to be universally understood hopefully it still can make sense to you, im a wiring virgin.  1 thing i have just noticed the pressure sensor in question relays both pressure and temperature, the temperature reading holds nice and steady despite the low ecu voltage but the pressure reading is the one that jumps around alot so maybe it is really a pressure issue? wiring plan.xlsx
    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
×
×
  • Create New...