Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey quick question. I have an R34 GTT and wanted to install a kill switch. Other than fuel pump, what is best thing to neutralize with a kill switch?

Looking at the ECU pinout, Terminal 24 is listed as "Ignition Switch (IGN) Signal". Would disabling this prevent the car from starting?

Just wanted to make sure before i go cutting

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303867-best-system-to-cut-with-kill-switch/
Share on other sites

Hey quick question. I have an R34 GTT and wanted to install a kill switch. Other than fuel pump, what is best thing to neutralize with a kill switch?

Looking at the ECU pinout, Terminal 24 is listed as "Ignition Switch (IGN) Signal". Would disabling this prevent the car from starting?

Just wanted to make sure before i go cutting

Cheers

I prefer to neutralize crims before entry into the car. but wont detail my alarm points here

really you could stop fuel

stop power

stop coil spark

stop tires from rolling, remove shifter, steering wheels but in the end the car will still get pinched by a pro

if you need to ask what it controls you might not be able to interface a alarm properly... ?????? and frying a ECU isnt cheap,, but the car will be neutralized then..lol

I prefer to neutralize crims before entry into the car. but wont detail my alarm points here

really you could stop fuel

stop power

stop coil spark

stop tires from rolling, remove shifter, steering wheels but in the end the car will still get pinched by a pro

if you need to ask what it controls you might not be able to interface a alarm properly... ?????? and frying a ECU isnt cheap,, but the car will be neutralized then..lol

Neutralize them before they enter the car? What have you got? Hidden flame throwers? Ahahah

Thanks for the advice but i'm not trying to install an alarm. I'm just trying to install a simple kill switch until i can afford to have a proper alarm system installed. I'm hesitant to cut the fuel pump since the car will still run for a bit. I could cut the coil if that's better but it means i have to run wire into the engine bay. If it's better than cutting IGN feed to the ECU then i'll do it.

Just trying to make it easier for me to sleep at night while i wait for my next pay day.

the car will not run for a bit...

about 2-3 seconds under load.

as for cutting the coil outside - why bother. that makes it SO easy to locate and bypass.

do something trick with a relay or two on a few key circuits. far better. I have a self arming circuit that would do the trick but by the sound of you (no offence) I do not think you have a grasp on electronics so trying to explain it would be hard.

I have a big book of relays somewhere (troy if you have the ME mag book I'm talking about send this guy a copy.) flick me an email addy and I'll toss it your way.plenty of kill circuits in it.

Edited by Chris Rogers
Neutralize them before they enter the car? What have you got? Hidden flame throwers? Ahahah

Thanks for the advice but i'm not trying to install an alarm. I'm just trying to install a simple kill switch until i can afford to have a proper alarm system installed. I'm hesitant to cut the fuel pump since the car will still run for a bit. I could cut the coil if that's better but it means i have to run wire into the engine bay. If it's better than cutting IGN feed to the ECU then i'll do it.

Just trying to make it easier for me to sleep at night while i wait for my next pay day.

disclaimer

I'm not held responsible for any failed attempts to wire the car properly..lol but this might help you

ok then , try a cheap club to deter, dont park it in unsafe area for a long time, hide all items in sight, and then you can use the "clutch in" wire for a simple circuit cut.. if its a manual, or the auto box neutral safety switch , you can hide a switch under the carpet or to stop them until you get a proper alarm,

a crim wont know how to start it quickly if it acts like a slightly dead battery and jump start wont work either.

use a wire that isnt neon and tie it up clean to hide it.

if you can get your head around that if not visit a sparky or shop who can, dont just cut wires willy nilly

the car will not run for a bit...

about 2-3 seconds under load.

as for cutting the coil outside - why bother. that makes it SO easy to locate and bypass.

do something trick with a relay or two on a few key circuits. far better. I have a self arming circuit that would do the trick but by the sound of you (no offence) I do not think you have a grasp on electronics so trying to explain it would be hard.

I have a big book of relays somewhere (troy if you have the ME mag book I'm talking about send this guy a copy.) flick me an email addy and I'll toss it your way.plenty of kill circuits in it.

No offence taken. When i did my engine conversion in my old silvia, it took me 1 and a half days to have all the mechanical parts swapped out and in. Then another 6 days to figure out the wiring. lol. So i'm well aware of my weaknesses.

As for the book, that sounds awesome. Just describing it might go over my head, but if i have a diagram to go off i'm perfectly capable. I'll PM you my e-mail.

Cheers

the best thing about a kill switch is that while the car thief is searching for it in the car it gives him time to think of how he's going to trash the car.

kill switches offer no protection, arent insurance approved and usually take less than a minute to find in any car.

it is without a doubt one of the most pointless things you can do.

the best thing about a kill switch is that while the car thief is searching for it in the car it gives him time to think of how he's going to trash the car.

kill switches offer no protection, arent insurance approved and usually take less than a minute to find in any car.

it is without a doubt one of the most pointless things you can do.

bet you couldnt find 1 I installed in 30min , hell maybe you would never find it, very very stealth and high tech setup

but by that point you would end up slicing the seats up, and throwing bricks through the windows before setting fire to it.

kinda a double edge sword, not getting it they trash it, getting it they trash it(unless you track then thru GPS to the there front door...lol)

I've been told also never to have kill switches located anywhere within reach of the driver's seat as someone with an idea of what they are doing will feel around in the obvious spots.

I'm not that paranoid, but decent brand immobiliser + alarm + heavy duty club lock, combined with a smart attitude about when and where to leave it do me fine IMO, cause either way they will either go to the extreme of putting it on a truck or trashing it.

I have heard stories of HDT owners using chains bolted to the floor and then through the rims which have locknuts fitted lol.

  • 2 weeks later...
the best thing about a kill switch is that while the car thief is searching for it in the car it gives him time to think of how he's going to trash the car.

kill switches offer no protection, arent insurance approved and usually take less than a minute to find in any car.

it is without a doubt one of the most pointless things you can do.

Thats rubbish!

Kill switches offer fantastic protection for the average car thief that only knows how to rip an ignition barrel off and screwdriver start it.

BUT, i agree with them being easy to find. If your going to do it, you have to do it well. Me personally dont put them anywhere near the dash.

Thats rubbish!

Kill switches offer fantastic protection for the average car thief that only knows how to rip an ignition barrel off and screwdriver start it.

BUT, i agree with them being easy to find. If your going to do it, you have to do it well. Me personally dont put them anywhere near the dash.

if they offer such fantastic protection i guess thats why

- no insurance company in the world lists them as an approved form of vehicle immobiliser

- no insurance company in australia will pay on a theft claim for a vehicle with a kill switch only

- the australian design rules relating to car immobilers dont list them at all

- car safe aust recommends against them

and..

since most car thieves are so unskilled how come we here constantly of cars being stolen with such sophisticated alarm systems, multiple alarms or the dodgy kill switch?

So, i stand by my original comment.

they are the most pointless thing you can do to a car to prevent it from being stolen.

And it doesnt really matter where you put them, they are very easy to find and get around.

Maybe your just not thinking outside the box.. who says it has to be a boring standard switch? I had one in a previous car that you couldnt see the switch, and you couldnt access the switch whether you knew exactly where it was or not.

It took a little more than your fingers for it to actually work.. if you get my drift. I wont go into details as its a public forum :P

I was never arguing the fact that they are insurance recognized neither. You'd be mad to have a decent car with no approved protection.

Id say a good 95% of the cars stolen in NZ that i see on the forums, the last line of the post says:

"STOLEN CAR XXX....

Oh, it wasnt alarmed.. i hadnt got around to it yet"

And i CLEARLY stated that its only protection from the dumbass thieves that are more in it for the joyride and the flash subs in the boot.

If the cars nicked with the best alarm ever invented, rigged with GPS and all the shit you can throw at it, then it safe to say the DID know what they were doing wouldnt it?And in those cases, yes, they are a waste of time.

Just like the OEM steering lock, the aftermarket steering locks, and the gearstick/handbrake locks.

These things are all here meerly to slow the thief down, or not try because there is too much for them to do with the possiblilty of being seen/heard/shot at.

Edited by gotRICE?

Oh, and if i leave my car for anything longer than a week in my garage, i remove the coilpack loom from the engine bay all together. Seeing as i dont have the cover, nor the little screws in place. Takes 10 seconds.

Good luck driving a skyline without a coilpack loom!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...