Jump to content
SAU Community

tube/fin vs bar/plate

coco69

By coco69,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi Gson, you can get the air going through only a part of the core, regardless of where the inlet and outlet are. The better desinged end tanks stop this, or some fabricators fit a deflector in the inlet air stream to make sure all the core is used.

Hi markr34gtr, you will only notice the difference in response with a back to back test of the intercoolers. You would have to do this on the road, the dyno would be no help. The 2530's have such great response themselves, you may well be satisfied with what you end up with anyway.

Hope that helps

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Interesting thing about theory and the real world.

You can make generalisations such as x type intercooler will have a larger pressure drop than y type intercooler.

In theory a tube and fin shoud have a higher pressure drop than a bar an plate, this is because the tubes extend past the end of the core (only slightly) which in turn means more turbulance (something you need in an intercooler to a degree, as it prevents skin effect), but better cooling.

Then all the variables come along such as core size, end tank design (much overlooked as sydneykid pointed out) and even the number of turbulators inside the tube or bar - these prevent skin effect. Too many and your cooler has too large a pressure drop to work well, too few and it wont cool efficiently.

What I am getting at is, I have seen some very good bar and plate coolers, and some very good tube and fin coolers - I have also seen poor example of both.

I think the trick is to get the right combination of airflow, cooling and pressure drop to suit your application - whether it be bar and plate or tube and fin

And remeber, if you spend a bit more on a good cooler, you get a good product, if you spend less and save a few hundred dollars you may find you are only wasting money. I have seen one guy on this forum who got a custom made cooler, the core size was right, they seemed to know what they were doing. He then tried a Jap cooler, and low and behold, fried his clutch.

I strongly agree with Ronin 09, if it looks too good to be true....

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

Did anyone notice (on the www.are.com.au page) the custom oil coolers designed for the R33 GTS-T in place of the grill?

I wonder how badly that would effect the radiator cooling as by the time you put a fmic in the only real way that a radiator can be cooled is thru the grill.

Looks guite snazzy anyhow...

DJ984 Mentor

DJ984

Posted
Posted

Ok, now you guys are really confusing me.... I wanna put a FMIC on my R32 GTS-t... I wanna get to about 200rwkw so i don't need a top of the line super dooper cooler.... i was simply wondering if a GTR cooler will do the trick.... or would i be better with an aftermarket?... what do i look for in a cooler?... cheers.

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

DJ984, a GTR cooler will be fine for your application - they will flow up to 300rwkW happily. Hope that simply answers your question.

Money wise, you will have to make the decision whether a second hand $600 GTR cooler vs a new (say) $700 cooler (remembering that you will have to pipe both to fit the GTS-t) is worth it - would you want to spend $100 more for a new cooler?

But yeah, a GTR cooler will be fine for your application.

rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
Posted
Another thought...

How about the new Hybrid intercoolers that are starting to appear around the place?

I bought one of the 600x300x75 hybrid bar/plate and fin supercoolers through e-bay and its surpost to surport up to 800hp with a 0.5psi drop, im running it with the rb20det from a r32 and have had nothing but good things said, as yet i havent driven the car with it cooling the air but will be running 12 psi for now and am just waiting for the pipe work to be finished.

all up for $1100 fitted custom piping thats not a bad deal!

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

For the extra $100, I'd rather get a brand new cooler. A GTR cooler might be up to 10 years old and have pinhole leaks, or headed towards getting some. Although if you could get a good deal on a near-new '97 GTR cooler, maybe that'd be ok.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 180 wanabe
      Thinking of getting a Q50 300hp and just tuning it instead of getting the Q50 Red or 400R

      By 180 wanabe · Posted

      Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • joshuaho96
      R34 power steering

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • Kinks
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By Kinks · Posted

      I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...