Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So my cars going in on wednesday to get a z32 ecu and nistune installed and tuned up. Im very excited to say the least. Anyway the car has the basic mods, full exhaust, fmic, pod filter, manual boost controller and its getting a new fuel pump on Wednesday as well, just as insurance against fuel supply problems.

So basically I was wondering about the rev limiter on rb25's, how high can you go on an unopened engine. I know this is a "how long is a piece of string" question. So i was hoping that people could speak from personal experience, i.e how high is your limiters set?

From what ive seen 7,500 seems to be the limit, but im not really sure.

Also with the fuel pump the one to get is the Bosch isn't it? The mechanic said to get that or the walbro, and i said i wasnt sure, ille leave it to him. And just now i read about the walbros being crap and having random failures so i might ring him back and tell him i want the bosch. Sound good?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304063-rb-25det-rev-limiter/
Share on other sites

I know the factory limiter is around 7,200rpm i think you will find power will likely drop after this anyways. But is there really a reason to rev it that high in the first place?

My 33 with front mount, cat back, pod, 10psi best shift point is bout 6k.

And yes bosch pump is the way to go

Yeah I agree with your point on power dropping a bit at the high rpms, probably because the stock turbo is running out of puff. As for reasons to rev that high, well basically the higher you rev, when you go into the next gear you are going to be higher in the rev range. And as for you changing gear at 6000rpm, thats not a problem, but dont you notice that power keeps increasing all the way untill red line? I certainly do and therefore ussually change gear at about 6,900. That is if im giving it the boot.

Yeah I agree with your point on power dropping a bit at the high rpms, probably because the stock turbo is running out of puff. As for reasons to rev that high, well basically the higher you rev, when you go into the next gear you are going to be higher in the rev range. And as for you changing gear at 6000rpm, thats not a problem, but dont you notice that power keeps increasing all the way untill red line? I certainly do and therefore ussually change gear at about 6,900. That is if im giving it the boot.

well u have more mods than me so thats possible as no i do not feel the power keep increasing.

also it will shorten your engine life. So i would suggest maybe open her up and build an engine for reving out if thats what you want.

I know the factory limiter is around 7,200rpm i think you will find power will likely drop after this anyways. But is there really a reason to rev it that high in the first place?

My 33 with front mount, cat back, pod, 10psi best shift point is bout 6k.

And yes bosch pump is the way to go

Factory rev limit is 6900.

7k. any higher with a stock turbo is pretty pointless

Give this man a medal - post of the thread.

No point taking it any further than 7,000rpm, factory turbo is begging for a gear change by 7k, so why stress for no reason?

Keeping it at 7000 will preserve the motor much better.
7k. any higher with a stock turbo is pretty pointless
Give this man a medal - post of the thread.

No point taking it any further than 7,000rpm, factory turbo is begging for a gear change by 7k, so why stress for no reason?

On mine it is set to 7100 because my HKS2850 turbo drops off around there.

I have done 120,000 kms on a stock motor pushing 320+ HP, drags, track and it still runs sweet, I do have all the support mods needed.

mines on 7900 mate, all those under are just wimps ( yeh im prepared to get flammed it is SAU ) My 20 is even higher =)

whilst sliding wether power drops off or not you need revs, and like you said higher rev so next gear is up in sweet spot whilst changin.

i have power fc and can change this myself when ever i want, so speakin from experience 7 does not cut it.

Better to have it higher rather than too low and not be happy and pay again to get it changed with nisstune !

Edited by bbe
mines on 7900 mate, all those under are just wimps ( yeh im prepared to get flammed it is SAU ) My 20 is even higher =)

whilst sliding wether power drops off or not you need revs, and like you said higher rev so next gear is up in sweet spot whilst changin.

i have power fc and can change this myself when ever i want, so speakin from experience 7 does not cut it.

Better to have it higher rather than too low and not be happy and pay again to get it changed with nisstune !

Why did this just give me a mental image of Einstein licking a window?

i dont really agree, if you are running a stock turbo.... i had 7100 dialed in on mine and it was definately outside the powerband... for drift i do understand that you need higher revs tho...

currently i have 7400 dialed in with the 2835, and i could go higher, but want to preserve the motor

didnt that guy with 485ish rwhp out of his stock internaled 25 (cant find thread) usually rev it to 7500 but when he raised the limit to 85 to avoid changing into 5th just before the line it threw a rod at about 8300 ??

someone else will remember the thread .

8500 that would just be awesome, goodbye ceramic wheels thou lol

At 7900 it still does sound smooth =)

I dont get the Einstein licking a window lol

Oh and their is nothing wrong with Walbro.

Edited by bbe

Ive got similar mods,

JJR coilpacks

3" turbo back exhaust

FMIC

Pod filter

Bosch 040

nismo Fuel pressure reg

Hi-flowed turbo

Z32 with nistune

mine is set at 7600 as thats when the power peaked. although i have my shift light set at 6800, by the time i react it get pretty close to the limit.

and u will be very happy with the nistune, i know i am.

so will the rb25 head macthed with a bigger turbo able to flow good enough to still make power around 7400-7900??? i have heard good things about the rb20 making its way up to 8 or so but the 25???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean it's probably likely that people overestimate their skills in dialling in a setup and noticing the changes. I had SK shocks and springs, and added heavier springs and got them revalved by Sydney Shocks to suit based upon what I told them I wanted the car to handle like. I got back a completely different feeling set of shocks, which probably (?) feel great on track but holy hell are they rough on tram tracks and the like. The shock dyno actually looks pretty similar to Shockworks (from what I can surmise from a screenshot of a youtube video - and my dyno printout...) Truth be told I doubt I'd be any faster or slower with either setup, or camber/castor combination. I also had whiteline eccentric castor bushes up front of my R34. I removed them and put in poly non-adjustable ones to soothe my OCD (nobody ever set the castor the same side to side, and it'd be near impossible to do) and be happy the wheel is centered in the well now for clearance reasons. Yes I wanted it to move 1mm 'back' :p I've effectively set my castor back to stock, negating all the benefits of that which is supposedly massive. I've probably also altered toe and camber in a negative (detrimental) way. I can't tell any difference steering the car.
    • You reckon? I have to disagree. Notwithstanding that at some point we may all be forced to do this to our cars if we want to keep driving them, there is absolutely nothing about an electric-converted-previously-IC-car that is ever good. EVs that are built by OEMs on platforms that were originally IC already suck, let alone the shitty outcomes that result from doing it as a retro to something that was actually built as an IC car. This is because the platform really needs to be designed to house the battery in a useful place (ie, down as low as possible) and the motors are properly located relative to the wheels that they have to drive. Converted platforms already suck at this. But when you try to shove sufficient battery capacity into a previously IC car, you can't put it down on/in the floor, because that space doesn't exist. You can't find enough space where the fuel tank used to be (if it is an inboard fuel tank) and you don't want to hang it out behind the rear axle line if you had a rear fuel tank. And there's not enough space in the tunnel if you still want to use it for anything remotely like what it was originally used for. The engine bay is too big for a motor, and you'd really prefer that the motor for the rear wheels wasn't in the front engine bay anyway. And there's not enough room where the diff was for a proper man-sized E motor. And then.... there is the complete lack of soul and emotion that is provided by EVs. There are some cracking restomods out there. Like the Alfaholics GTA thingo. But it is petrol powered. Look at the alternative EV version of a GTA restomod by Totem. it is jaw droppingly beautiful. But by all reports is is objectively awful to drive, despite having 600 HP or something, simply because there is nothing there. It sounds like a sewing machine or a leaf blower. It should scream and wail and make the hairs on your neck stand up. Oh, and it's 1500 bloody kg in a car that was <900kg when new. GTRs are heavy enough as it is without pushing them up to 2tonnes worth of pork.
    • https://www.dezeen.com/2025/01/06/nissan-electric-r32-skyline-gt-r-godzilla-sports-car/   I reckon this is pretty cool. Lots of other Resto mods have turned to ev power.
    • hahaha @joshuaho96 the most action it gets is when I have to drive from West to SE VIC to meet the fam. Even then, it;s on highway cruising speeds
    • don't know anyone in this thread, but i just found it, read the entire thing in a few hours, realized greg is still posting progress, and just have to say, this is awesome. it looks awesome. 100% right about the Uras kit making it a pain to get on hoists...have the same kit on my 34 and it takes six 2x4s and race ramps to do it without taking parts off. this reminds me exactly of this thread. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/r63-amg-the-unicorn-of-my-destruction/110824/page8/
×
×
  • Create New...