Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So,

if you either have to sell the skyline to upgrade or downgrade - what would you get?

or if you need a new daily driver? what are you going to get? and why?

The mx5 - well I dont see myself replacing that for a few years, however my daily - 1995 bluebird I cannot wait to get rid of!

Im looking to buy my old mans VXii Berlina V6 - so comfy, 80k on clock, immaculate condition!

Im sick of manual for daily driving in traffic!

so whats your next car going to be??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304139-your-next-car/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I just bought a 32 GTR

but I dont know how practical it is for daily driving its more a weekend car for me :)

so might get and 2nd car that I dont have to worry about too much when parked or in shopping centres.

maybe a s13 non turbo manual :)

can have a little fun on a track with it aswell

Edited by Greddy Skyline
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304139-your-next-car/#findComment-5037840
Share on other sites

If i was to sell the 32 i'd prob get a supra tt or possibly an evo 7,8,9. Always loved the supras. I've got a sprinter for a 2nd car and its alright. Stock 4ac atm though so its gutless but can still have a bit of fun. Is much better on fuel than the 32 also. Cant wait to do an engine conversion on it :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304139-your-next-car/#findComment-5037859
Share on other sites

im thinking a falcon ute once the fail-line is finished...need a good car to tow with as im not confident using the cressida for big trips with 2 ton of racecar and trailer hanging off the back....

Or a Toyota Aristo...mmmm 2jz + luxury + towing ability = win

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304139-your-next-car/#findComment-5038205
Share on other sites

So,

if you either have to sell the skyline to upgrade or downgrade - what would you get?

R34 GTT or R33 GTR or if cbf with imports I'll probably grab one of the million SS como taxis floating around.

or if you need a new daily driver? what are you going to get? and why?

My current R33 makes a great daily driver, if I were to change to a local car then again proabably be one of those 2000 model SS commos seems to be the only thing with decent power for <$10k other than more imports. Also has 4 doors & a big boot for shopping duties.

so whats your next car going to be??

Probably a R34 GTT.

Edited by Mayuri Krab
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304139-your-next-car/#findComment-5038248
Share on other sites

If we win a decent amount but not rediculous on tatslotto. Then an R35 gtr and an Audi family car.

Otherwise. If i was to change the family car. Maybe a newer model statesman or something along those lines. Really wouldn't worry me as I don't get much enjoyment out of driving them.

I may get rid of the R33 gts-t one day. Most likely if I ever get another performance car I will save up and wait another 20 years for my planned midlife crisis and get something more exotic and leave it standard.

Unless I win the jackpot I have no intentions of buying a new car in the near future for hobby purposes.

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304139-your-next-car/#findComment-5038338
Share on other sites

WAS going to be sooner rather than later but priorities change once you buy property...

in <2 years either keep my current car & buy an r34 GTR for trackdays

OR sell both cars i own & get an R35

OR if the stars align & I get hunkered down then a sedan of some description for a family, possibly a v36 sedan if they eventually approve them for import

yes I am a one eyed datsun fanboi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304139-your-next-car/#findComment-5038415
Share on other sites

I own 2 Skylines; a R33 GTS and now a R33 GTR Vspec. Both of which have been modifyed to the point where they are no longer practical cars to drive everyday.

I have always wanted a daily driver V8 and what better choice than a FPV BF MKII GTP semi-auto. I'd have to go for the auto option because, living in Syndey has made me realise that, no one in sydney ever 'drives' to thier destination.....they simply 'crawl' to it as the traffic and road quality in Sydney is disgustingly bad. Driving manuals through Sydney traffic is a painful experience (especially with a twin plate clutch), the 6 speed auto offered by FPV just gives the best of both worlds.

With that said, I think a comfy Aussie V8 with a lazy 6 speed auto tranny would have to be the next vehicle of choice. Its got a great sound, its comfy as, the parts a cheap and available from everywhere and now that I'm 25+ I won't have any problems getting insurance as I did with the Skylines.

......maybe a nice Defillipo quad tip exhaust to go with it :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304139-your-next-car/#findComment-5038423
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
    • Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.
×
×
  • Create New...