Is It Possible To Get A Caged R32gtst Under 1200kg?

[warps]

Nah my OP was without crew or helmets or fuel.

Tha CAMS regs state:

The weight is the real weight of the car, without driver nor co-driver nor their equipment; this

includes the helmet, but the headphones external to the helmet may be left in the car.

At no time during the event may a car weigh less than the minimum weight stated in this article

ie min weight does NOT include driver, helmets etc. External headsets may be left in the car for this weight measurement, but as the car must always exceed this weight, then it has to be measured with no fuel, or at least the minimum fuel load you are ever going to run.

Total weight of co-driver and driver is less than 145kg, so not a significant amount to add into the car to upset balance.

Having said all that, looks like we'll struggle to get the dressed weight anywhere near the class minimum (1180kg), given the reinfoecement and heavy duty gear we'll need to be running (light weight suspension components don't fill me with confidence if the car will be spending time with all 4 wheels off the ground)

Next weight category (sub 1260) will let us run up up to 2.35L. Looks like the best option is to use the RB26 crank with max allowable overbore (1.5mm) to give 2.2L. Probably big $$ for a 10% capacity increase.

But I'm getting way ahead of myself now

[BezerkR32]

weighed mine today, it went 1193kg with 20ltr fuel. Heavyier than i thought by 100kg.

Nah my OP was without crew or helmets or fuel.

Tha CAMS regs state:

The weight is the real weight of the car, without driver nor co-driver nor their equipment; this

includes the helmet, but the headphones external to the helmet may be left in the car.

At no time during the event may a car weigh less than the minimum weight stated in this article

ie min weight does NOT include driver, helmets etc. External headsets may be left in the car for this weight measurement, but as the car must always exceed this weight, then it has to be measured with no fuel, or at least the minimum fuel load you are ever going to run.

Total weight of co-driver and driver is less than 145kg, so not a significant amount to add into the car to upset balance.

Having said all that, looks like we'll struggle to get the dressed weight anywhere near the class minimum (1180kg), given the reinfoecement and heavy duty gear we'll need to be running (light weight suspension components don't fill me with confidence if the car will be spending time with all 4 wheels off the ground)

Next weight category (sub 1260) will let us run up up to 2.35L. Looks like the best option is to use the RB26 crank with max allowable overbore (1.5mm) to give 2.2L. Probably big $$ for a 10% capacity increase.

But I'm getting way ahead of myself now

[Roy]

Fark me your car must be quick...that sort of grunt and fark all weight!!!!

[Duncan]

yeah good result stu. it is pretty well stripped including most of the wiring too right?

[BezerkR32]

yeh basic lighting and engine loom only. i dont think there is much more that could come out, i didnt realise r32 went 1400kg so i guess loosing 200kg isnt too bad, but getting one down to 1200kg with an iron block would be a great effort, and gtr with 4wd id say impossible, but correct me if im wrong.

yeah good result stu. it is pretty well stripped including most of the wiring too right?

[unique1]

ive posted this list before from when i stripped my r32 gtr but most of the stuff would be the same as a gtst im sure...

rear seat back 6.5kg

rear seat bottom 6.5kg

front ds seat 15kg (keeping this)

front ps seat 15kg

main carpet 6kg

rear trims in back seat 5kg

parcel shelf 1kg

space saver wheel 15kg

boot trims 6kg

jack/toolkit 4kg

boot brackets 3kg

air con/heater/blower fan 10kg

firewall sound deadener 4kg

rear seat belts 2.5kg

spoiler 7.5kg

air con pump 8kg

air con bracket 1.5kg

charcoal canister/bracket 1kg

washer bottle 1kg

hicas pump, engine bay lines 7kg

abs unit 8kg

hicas undercar lines 2kg

cooler piping/bov's 15kg

fusebox loom 7kg

front bumper support 6.5kg

sound deadener 11kg

dash loom 4kg

fuel tank 13kg (fuel cell = 6kg)

interior/attessa/boot loom 6kg

rear wiper motor 2kg

coilovers 6kg lighter than stock

hicas pump rack 9kg

boot with spoiler (no hinges) 15.5kg

total 208kg so far

front axles x 2 12kg

sump/front diff(gtr=24kg, vl=2.5kg) 21.5kg

air con condensor/lines 5kg

battery 15kg

wiring harnesses 8kg

drum brake assemblies 5kg

hicas ecu 2kg

heater hoses 1kg

bumper reinforcements 8kg

transfer case 33kg

oil cooler block 2kg

total of stuff to go 114.5kg

1460kg-314.5kg = 1145.5kg

gtr box 89kg

gtst box 56kg

rollcage 67kg roughly (CDS andra/cams approved full cage with additional barwork)

Then add in what you are going to put in like big brakes, oil coolers etc and you can get an idea.

Edited January 24, 2010 by unique1

[NZM.031]

if you were getting down to that sort of weight, the standard brakes would near do the job with good pads and rotors... any more brakes and youd just lock up..

are the dba 5000 alloy hat rotors much lighter than teh stockers??

btw, gtst seats are 20kg a piece. weighed mine on the weekend.

can anyome confirm for real about the early and late doors being 10kg different?? does anyone know why?? mine is a 94 model and they are heavy... i was gonna take to em with the grinder but if i can just get early model doors that would be sweet.

[Marlin]

I haven't confirmed it myself, but I have it on good authority that the early doors are heaps lighter. No factory intrusion bar I was told.

[sav man]

i have series 1 and series 2 doors in my posetion. And there is 10kg difference.

[NZM.031]

can i have them?? please?? haha...

might have to put up for a swapsie.

dont spose gtr doors are any lighter??

[Duncan]

I'm 99% sure GTR and GTST doors are the same, ie the series 1 doors are much lighter (no intrusion bars). Could you look into removing the bars from a later model door?

BTW yes the alloy hat DBA5000 rotors are significantly lighter. I don't have the exact weights but it is very noticeable.

[jazzy_j]

We looked into getting carbon doors for the race car but after cutting the intrusion bars out and alot of the metal from behind the trim and then relining it with a flat piece of alloy we didn't think a carbon door would be much if at all lighter. We also don't have windows either so we save alot of weight there too.

[sav man]

I think carbon is another 10kg lighter again.

[Marlin]

My bud Cameron the drifter has the early light doors with lexan "glass" and they feel crazy light to me. So light I wouldn't run these doors without a cage with intrusion bars.

[NZM.031]

is there any structural loss wih removing door material?? to the door itself, like sagging etc.

i cant imagine so as they are pillarless, and with the cage, you should be able to run without doors.

wrx 5000 series rotors are 5.8kg each. imagine skylines the same.

[sav man]

the bar is there to stop side intrusion, not add rigity...eg being t boned, hitting a tree side on.

yes they will sag a bit if oyu gut them.

[warps]

Correct. When I got T-boned (92 GTSt) the replacement door they sent me was from a Ser 1, without the intrusion bar. I asked the panel beater to swap the intrusion bar over, and he said it was a massive structure, weighed a tonne and was a huge job. We didn't weigh the gear, but it had a significant effect on door weight.

The intrusion bar would likely have next to no effect on rigidity of the door in terms of sag etc, but the added weight would likely cause hinges to wear out quicker.

Interestingly enough, when he spoke to the insurance company about whether they would cover the cost of this, their response was to notify them if my existing door didn't have

the intrusion bar, as this meant they would cancel my insurance policy.

If you had a decent cage with intrusion bars then that negates the need for the door bars, although every little bit helps, and even if the door slows your car (or the car hitting you) by 10km/h, then that could be the difference between life and death.

I am considering removing the heavy intrusion bar, and fitting a lighter RHS bar in there - even if it only loses a couple of kg, but retains (or increases) the strength of the door, it can't be a bad thing

BerserkR32 - if you could point me in the direction of one of these light weight alloy RB engines, I'd be grateful. Were they homologated?

[NZM.031]

how much weight will i lose if i bore the block out?? hahahaha.

i think in my situation, the intrusion bars can make their way to the scrap bin, the car will be lucky to see sun 5 times a year.

[DJRIFT]

the said doors that ben has now were on my car. i did some experimenting and found that 80% of the weight of either door is within the metal of the door especialy around the hinging area.

i cut every bit of the inside of the door i could and it made maybe 1kg difference for a loss of rigidity so my conclusion was dont bother hacking the light weight doors at all.

the glass and the window reg weigh f all and you would be lucky to have the weight of the glass when using perspex. we have perspex in one of the race cars and its a pain in the ass.

my conclusion is. if you want safe. stic with the s2 doors. if you want light and practical ie window working use the s2 door but dont cut it or if your going all ou then get carbon of fibre glass doors. they arent that dear for the advantage. ive seen them advertised at under 10kg each so thats 30 odd kg a door and thats a big number for a small part of the car.

oh and ben now were back on the light door topic i want them back

[Angus Smart]

I got a set of gtr doors at home, 32kg, they still have most of the bits inside. minus the outer interior skins/trims

you could easily get them down to 20 something by removing motors and adding winders or something and cutting a bit