Jump to content
SAU Community

Diy: 4wd To Rwd

kidafa

By kidafa,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

Hi all!

The forum has been lacking a DIY for putting your 4WD stag into RWD mode.

Firstly theirs a number of reasons you might want to:

  • 2wd dyno runs
  • Saving coin on the tuner pulling it out
  • Making yourself feel better due to less power loss from awd system
  • Skids
  • Burning up tyres before installing new ones
  • Any other stupid reasons you can think off......

The reason I'm pulling it is we've got a dyno day tomorrow and only mods since last power run on a 2wd dyno was shift kit and a 3' highflow cat (used to have gutted 2.5')... So im really trying to work out if the kits done anything power wise (yes I will report after the day)

It takes roughly 45 minutes, perhaps allow an hour for first timers

Tools required:

  • 4 Jack Stands
  • 13mm Ring Spanner
  • Trolley Jack
  • 12mm socket on ratchet and whatever adaptors you need for your setup
  • King G Overals :P (for keeping clean while rolling around on dirty garage floor)

20740_1303800590157_1084756809_30948537_6560848_n.jpg

Method:

1. Start by jacking up your car get it so all 4 wheels are off the ground by 3 or so inches

20740_1303800430153_1084756809_30948533_5364533_n.jpg

2. ENSURE you give the car a good shaking once its up on stands to ensure its nice and stable cos your going to be working under it!

3. Get under and locate your front drive shaft It comes out of the transfer case and has four bolts that go into the front diff

20740_1303800470154_1084756809_30948534_5707590_n.jpg

4. Go inside car and release park brake and put it in N

5. Jump back underneath and watch the shaft and spin one of the front wheels to spin the shaft to where its nice and easy to get at each bolt, you need to move the shaft for each bolt. I do them in this position

20740_1303800550156_1084756809_30948536_6430178_n.jpg

6. Take your socket and 12mm and put it on the bolt head (side of bolt towards rear of car) THE BOLTS AND NUTS ARE NOT REALLY HARD AND ROUND EASILY SO BE CAREFUL!

7. Try and give it a few spins to get it all moving you may be lucky and it may crack and you dont even need to use the 13mm to hold the nut still to undo them

8. Once you have all four bolts out pull the front of the shaft down and then pull and jiggle it forward. The rear is just a spline set-up thats all sealed so it will come out with a bit of pulling.

20740_1303800510155_1084756809_30948535_2315822_n.jpg

9. Drop the car, do a lap around the block with a bit of a heavy foot where you shouldn't (aka out of a corner) and you will soon be able to tell its in RWD. No fuses need to be pulled. You will not get any fault lights or anything. This is the only SAFE way to run in RWD to avoid frying clutch packs ect...

Installation is simply the reverse. Dont need to do the shaft nuts up super super tight. Again THE BOLTS AND NUTS ARE NOT REALLY HARD AND ROUND EASILY SO BE CAREFUL!

Hope this helps someone.

Cheers,

Chris

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304189-diy-4wd-to-rwd/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

kidafa
kidafa

Hi all! The forum has been lacking a DIY for putting your 4WD stag into RWD mode. Firstly theirs a number of reasons you might want to: 2wd dyno runs Saving coin on the tuner pulling it out

steve84
steve84

If do i didnt know Its a 02 nm35 250t rs4 sounds standard

C34S2STAG
C34S2STAG

Damn it the attachment did work! Rh kick panel is a 1 wire connector disconnect it Turn car on without moving Pump brake pedal 5 times until the 4wd light starts flashing You are now in rwd mode a

Posted Images

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You need to pull the 4wd fuse in the fusebox next to the battery.

"NEED" I think is the wrong word.. I guess you could but Ive had it out before and spoken to tuners and its not necessary. Ohhh and also a mechanic that had his shaft out on his OWN stagea for about 6months with no fuse removal and NO issues

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304189-diy-4wd-to-rwd/#findComment-5038228
Share on other sites
DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted (edited)

Great howto thanks Chris! Now I have a better idea about what's involved and it looks reasonably straight-forward... as usual, the hardest part is getting the damn car far enough off the ground safely!

Whenever the mech' removes mine he always removes the (big, 30A) fuse. It's not hard - takes 5 seconds or so and has at least these advantages that I can think of:

- saves wear on the ATTESA pump by not running it all the time

- lets the system know that it's in RWD mode (and the driver by illuminating the 4wd warning light)

- stops that infernal clicking! (the dreaded ATTESA relay)

...so why not do it and take advantage of the benefits or however SK puts it... just my thoughts :P

Edited by DaveB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304189-diy-4wd-to-rwd/#findComment-5038334
Share on other sites
yellowsubmarine Collaborator

yellowsubmarine

Posted
Posted
Pulling the fuse is not enough on the Stagea you have to remove the front drivshaft. The Attessa is different from that on the R32 where pulling the fuse was all you had to do.

ah k i use to have a 32gtr wish it was easy as that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304189-diy-4wd-to-rwd/#findComment-5038861
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
-RBD2- Mentor

-RBD2-

Posted
Posted
Ok for those wondering the shift kit and cat seemed to up the rwkw by 25. This is also with a tiny bit less boost. very pleased awesome day on the dyno thanks rodders!

no worries chris,had a few sms/pm's of thanks and im glad everyone had a good day and enjoyed it. i may organise another in due time

will catch up with you soon buddy!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304189-diy-4wd-to-rwd/#findComment-5062629
Share on other sites
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      So now doing the change and first time dealing with rb so little nervous giving engine power and potential for screwing it up When you align all marks and then remove crank bolt, timing move little I assume you can put the bolt back in once you have removed the pully to get timing to where you want?   here is pic of my both intake and exchust cam aligned, depending on angle you look they seem to be either aligned or a half tooth or so out. Any thoughts? Should you angle your face and look at each mark that way as if looking straight rather than from above as it can be misleading   <a href="https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HfWrGR9b/IMG-4447.jpg" alt="IMG-4447" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JWBqWwr1/IMG-4445.jpg" alt="IMG-4445" border="0"></a>   https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q
    • sunsetR33
      braided lines for the turbos

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      You're probably right about that one. Thanks for your suggestions, I hope I don't need a new 3rd brake light. Although wiring issues might arguably be worse. Right now I'm in the midst of a turbo removal because of my oil leak, other problems are going to have to wait for now.
×
×
  • Create New...