Diy: 4wd To Rwd

[scotty nm35]

I'm rebuilding a set of fronts at the moment, it's only an hours work tops, getting them out shouldn't take long either with the right tools. Grubby job though...

[STAG123]

Has anyone tried this for the M35??

[scotty nm35]

Yep, we just need to drop the front tailshaft. 4 bolts on the front diff and lower the gearbox to get the shaft out.

[wolverine]

C34 for the win!!

[mely1200]

Hey team,

Still troubleshooting the 4wd on the c34 s2 rs4s (manual) stag here team. Reminder, car was stolen, came back with 4wd,abs&hicas lights on. Got the abs and hicas back with fuses. The 4wd fuse was gone & i replaced it, front prop shaft was still in there. The light is still on and there is no transfer to the front wheels on the gauge.

I have the r34 manual here, but it is no real help. The R33 solve of reconnect "air evacuation connector" does not shed any light on it. There is no unit in the drivers kick panel.

Does this "air evacuation connector" exist in the c34?

If so where is it physically located on the car?

It might also be the Atessa pump, where on the car does that live?

What do I have to do to test/recommission that?

Cheers team,

Mely

0402335586

[scotty nm35]

The connector is under the dash, unplug it and the pump should run for a period of time, allowing you to bleed the hydraulic system.

[KiwiRS4T]

In my S1 Stagea its a very small black plug taped to loom, with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket behind the driver's side kick panel.

Have you filled up the reservoir and bled the system? (Bleed nipple at the back of the transfer case and another above the diff)

Hey team,

Still troubleshooting the 4wd on the c34 s2 rs4s (manual) stag here team. Reminder, car was stolen, came back with 4wd,abs&hicas lights on. Got the abs and hicas back with fuses. The 4wd fuse was gone & i replaced it, front prop shaft was still in there. The light is still on and there is no transfer to the front wheels on the gauge.

I have the r34 manual here, but it is no real help. The R33 solve of reconnect "air evacuation connector" does not shed any light on it. There is no unit in the drivers kick panel.

Does this "air evacuation connector" exist in the c34?

If so where is it physically located on the car?

It might also be the Atessa pump, where on the car does that live?

What do I have to do to test/recommission that?

Cheers team,

Mely

0402335586

[C34S2STAG]

Hey team,

Still troubleshooting the 4wd on the c34 s2 rs4s (manual) stag here team. Reminder, car was stolen, came back with 4wd,abs&hicas lights on. Got the abs and hicas back with fuses. The 4wd fuse was gone & i replaced it, front prop shaft was still in there. The light is still on and there is no transfer to the front wheels on the gauge.

I have the r34 manual here, but it is no real help. The R33 solve of reconnect "air evacuation connector" does not shed any light on it. There is no unit in the drivers kick panel.

Does this "air evacuation connector" exist in the c34?

If so where is it physically located on the car?

It might also be the Atessa pump, where on the car does that live?

What do I have to do to test/recommission that?

Cheers team,

Mely

0402335586

Here is what I do and have been doing for a while, 4wd light will flash to let you know when it's rwd. When you turn the car off make sure you don't drive it unplugged without pumping the brake pedal!

Skids!

[C34S2STAG]

Damn it the attachment did work!

Rh kick panel is a 1 wire connector disconnect it

Turn car on without moving

Pump brake pedal 5 times until the 4wd light starts flashing

You are now in rwd mode as per Nissan manual

Skids

[sheepus]

To all those people rebuilding driveshafts.... Where do you get parts. I had mine out and sent away for 'rebuilding' and got back shafts with nice boots but plenty of knock. At the point now where im gonna drop the front shaft to stop the impending explosion

[scotty nm35]

Nissan sell parts...

[sheepus]

u priced up driveshaft parts? Been there tryed that

[scotty nm35]

Tried Amayama?

I have a spare passenger one I think, needs boots though. Do you know which one is flogged? Probably the drivers one, it's inner CV is the common failure point.

[DangerousDJ]

Here is what I do and have been doing for a while, 4wd light will flash to let you know when it's rwd. When you turn the car off make sure you don't drive it unplugged without pumping the brake pedal!

Skids!

What happens if you forget to pump the brake pedal and drive with the wire unplugged? And what problems/damage is caused by running the car in 2wd in this way? I ask as I'm going to do it with mine when it's back on the road, although everyone I've ever discussed this with (including a discussion I'm having with someone at the moment (and who will probably read this shortly, lol)) swear it will break something. Any and all info you have would be great, cheers.

[KiwiRS4T]

What happens if you forget to pump the brake pedal and drive with the wire unplugged? And what problems/damage is caused by running the car in 2wd in this way? I ask as I'm going to do it with mine when it's back on the road, although everyone I've ever discussed this with (including a discussion I'm having with someone at the moment (and who will probably read this shortly, lol)) swear it will break something. Any and all info you have would be great, cheers.

There is no problem with doing this but I wouldn't use it to achieve permanent 2wd because of the need to reset each time. The best way to get full time 2wd is to sell the car and buy a rwd car.

[DangerousDJ]

There is no problem with doing this but I wouldn't use it to achieve permanent 2wd because of the need to reset each time. The best way to get full time 2wd is to sell the car and buy a rwd car.

Cheers for that KiwiRS4T. I only plan on doing it occasionally, when I feel the need for a bit of sideways action, so if I fit a switch inline with the wire I need to disconnect I'll be able to do it literally at the flick of a switch... and 5 pumps of the brake pedal of course.

I'm still being told by nearly everyone else I know with a Stagea that doing this will cook the transfer case clutch packs. They claim to know this "from experience", so that says to me they think anyone who states otherwise is wrong, yet not a single one of them have actually seen any problems or failures first hand or even know anyone who has had any problems either. I'm not doubting at all what you're telling me, but is there any truth at all in this? Just so I can clear this matter up once and for all. Cheers again.

[wolverine]

It has been cleared up for several years.

This is fine to do providing you follow the procedure in the manual. Pump the brake pedal etc.

As to whether you are comfortable running it on a 2WD dyno with a mechanical linkage still in place is the only questionable thing about doing this.

[DangerousDJ]

It has been cleared up for several years.

This is fine to do providing you follow the procedure in the manual. Pump the brake pedal etc.

As to whether you are comfortable running it on a 2WD dyno with a mechanical linkage still in place is the only questionable thing about doing this.

Thanks wolverine. Wish someone who knows what they're talking about would tell the guys on the "Nissan C34 Stagea owners group" on Facebook this as they think I'm mad for suggesting it, pmsl!!

[C34S2STAG]

Straight from the manual

[IBoughtANissan]

Here's my experience if it helps anyone out;

Did mine today and found the bolt head can't move as seen here:

and i couldn't get enough 'grab' using an open ended spanner without it rounding and couldn't fit a ring spanner on as above the nut it tapers in.

Ended up buying a 'flare spanner set' from supercheap and grinding it down to fit.

S2 C34 RS4