Attessa Question

[gt4dirtcircut]

hi

i have read about the ruzic controller and i take it it sends a different message to the computer after the g sensor is there anyway to bypass the g sensor and just have a manual switch to the pump itself?

or does the tsc bypass the g sensor and manually control the pump

only reason i ask mine has a big bloody red line on it and take it is buggard

any info would be good

cheers

Edited January 17, 2010 by gt4dirtcircut

[lachlanw]

yeah you can bypass all that crap and just run a switch on the pump . quite a few drag cars do it that way . so easy burn out then full lock for the run

[gt4dirtcircut]

yeah you can bypass all that crap and just run a switch on the pump . quite a few drag cars do it that way . so easy burn out then full lock for the run

nice!

made my day!

[icydude]

I would avoid using a switch. Running the system at full pressure, 270 psi ~, is a quick way of breaking something in the front end if you are producing enough power. It is more common for drag racers to run something like 20/80

[gt4dirtcircut]

I would avoid using a switch. Running the system at full pressure, 270 psi ~, is a quick way of breaking something in the front end if you are producing enough power. It is more common for drag racers to run something like 20/80

i was thinking of putting in a on off switch then in line with that a pot with 5 or so clicks i saw a wiring dia that said it was 8v then 2.5v then the line went to the pump so assume that full 8v would be the pump at full pressure and 2v would be minimal pressure to the front

im using the car on dirt tracks so i would think that with the wheels not griping as much as on the road hopefully ill get away with it

why the g sensor broke has got me stuffed one day it was white went for a a bit if a thrash then it was red so really if its going to be that sensitive i cant use for my dirt track stuff

[Duncan]

I don't think they are that sensitive. the only one we ever killed took 6 rolls to break it. other ones have been through some pretty major crashes and come out working.

I think you may well be fine with a 50/50 split on dirt if you want it- pretty much anyone who has played with this seriously in a big power car on tarmac has gone quicker and quicker with more fwd until stuff starts breaking.

[gt4dirtcircut]

i take it with red line on the gsensor it wont work anymore or is it just saying that it has had an excessive hit?

and with bypassing the gsensor or just direct power to the pump do you think the clutches in the transfer case will be an issue?

[icydude]

if the dye pack broke on the gsensor then it is no good.

[gt4dirtcircut]

I have no lights coming on on the dash to say there is anything wrong

how would you know if you still have the centre consol in?

[Swiper the Fox]

if the dye pack broke on the gsensor then it is no good.

totally incorrect...my drag gtr has a sensor with a red line through it and hooks up very hard (1.36 60footers). If i switch the fronts off it smokes the tyres for about 120feet.

[Duncan]

yeah that's what I'd always assumed. Its an indication of a big hit not a guarantee that the sensor no longer works, particularly since it's not mechanically connected to the unit.

shane....can't tell with the console in if the dye pack is broken. but in most other cases when there is a failure the 4wd light will be on on the dash. Has your globe been removed? Also there is a led on the computer under the parcel tray that will flash the code number if it detects a failure.

of course it's possible the whole system is stuffed in some other (probably power or earth) way that won't show a warning light

[gt4dirtcircut]

lights all work fine turn on ign all lights come on start they all go off

no error code on awd ecu

ok have cut most of the loom out from relay box under the bonnet have left ign and wires so car starts and dash works

BUT i did cut the r/f wheel sensor cable the shielded one and now i have

a red light flashing on the dash and awd ecu 1 flash then 5 secs from what ive have read thats telling me f/r wheel sens not working

so i will fix that no probs but there was no led light telling me that anything else was wrong before even with red line on g sensor

anyways what im asking here is can i bypass this whole shamozzle and just run a variable power source to the pump and will the transfer case deal with that and if not any suggestions

cheers

[gt4dirtcircut]

fixed the sensor wire all the abs and awd warning lights have gone from the dash and the awd comp is no longer flashing

before i fixed the sensor wire and with the warning lights on i took off in the drive way

and noticed that there was no front wheel drive happening after i fixed it left 4 black marks on the drive way so maybe i can leave everything as is even with gsensor showing red line???

[Duncan]

....and noticed that there was no front wheel drive happening after i fixed it....

you didn't mean that "no", right?

anyway good to hear its sorted, but it will still be the standard progressive style. If you really want to lock it up you need the hks kansai torque split controller or something custom based around motec or similar that has PWC output.

BTW thanks for posting the fix. I was going to try using no wheel sensors on the next race car because I had a theory attessa doesn't use them (ABS control is in the same unit which might have explained the inputs). But now I know it is required in some way.

[gt4dirtcircut]

well i mean yeah nah

what i did was turn the wheels to the right so i could see it

from in the car(car is stripped no guards doors windows so i got a good view) and dumped the clutch and the front wheels definately

did not spin, back wheels did(i did this on dirt) i think i know what you are getting at with the 33 having a 10% preload

and i did get out of the car and check the left side f/wheel and no loose dirt

then like i said fixed the sensor wire and and nearly ended up out the back window with my milk crate race seat

[blind_elk]

I was going to try using no wheel sensors on the next race car because I had a theory attessa doesn't use them (ABS control is in the same unit which might have explained the inputs). But now I know it is required in some way.

Doesn't ATTESSA use the ABS sensors as wheel-speed sensors, so it can tell loss of rear traction?

[bubba]

Doesn't ATTESSA use the ABS sensors as wheel-speed sensors, so it can tell loss of rear traction?

I doubt that because not all GTR's had ABS (N1 for example), I guess this is something to keep in mind with my Stag.. I'll need a control unit out of a car that had ABS!

[fletch rb30]

The 4wd/abs ecu is one box.

It needs wheel speed sensors, 0-3.5v signal from the ecu to indicate TPS position, G sensors, RPM signal.

It will run without the tps signal but you will get a fault light. Without the tps signal, it wont load the 4wd up until the acceleration g-force gets up.

If you get the r32 gtr wiring diagram, there is a page for the awd/abs ecu. You can see all the inputs you need and the outputs to the awd pump/abs solenoids. You can just disconnect all the outputs for the abs stuff, but keep all the inputs