Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My mate refers all his customers to Exhaust Techniques. Apparently they do a great job and explain everything to you so you know exactly what they're doing and why.

I haven't used them, but when the time comes, I'll be going there ;)

I got my exhaust done at Exhaust techniques. All i can say is im not happy with the quality of the welding done. They asked what i want done, I told the sales manager the muffler i wanted, and when i came back it was nothing like i said. If i had to do it again AAA near the city are the best ive heard.

I had my s/steel exhaust done at D&T Performance.

I'm happy with the note and loudness of the exhaust all though it is slightly louder than an average Jap exhaust.

No droning.

One thing I wasn't that happy with was the finish of the weld where the turbo flange welds up to the pipe. There is also a slight raise in the shape of a V in front of the compressor wheel due to the way they bent the pipe to mate up.

depends on the one you buy. I originally fitted a stainless N1 cat back - very loud as it only has a small rear muffler - but good power.

Changed to a Nismo dual muffler, which is very quiet, but a little less power (noise and back pressure are somewhat related). fujitsubo is another that make very good, quiet exhausts, but they still bark when you get angry, they just dont wake the dead:) There are several others that will do the same.

Generally, if it has dual mufflers ( and i am not talking about a skinny little claytons muffler ) they will be quite reasonable.

Interesting too, that I got nearly all my money back on the N1 exhaust, a good condition jap made exhaust will hold its value very well.

I got mine done at AAA exhaust. They have a mandrel bending machine on site so that means they dont have to sit there and weld up prebent pipes.

I got mine done full SS turbo back for 1100 from them. Top quality work, not a weld insight, wouldnt think about going anywhere else frankly.

You sound pretty happy with AAA, do you think they would do a split dumpipe aswell?, best way is to ring and ask them i suppose. Price sounds cheap, especially when most places are looking at close to the 1700 mark for a full stainless system. What kind of muffler did you get put on?, the usuall barrel style muffler?

Yeah Im pretty happy with them! Whats funny is they supply the mandrel bends to places like ET and D&T.

I got a cannon style rear muffler, Super Cat brand.. Its good enough. Fully polished S/S. I didnt see the point paying another 300 for an Apexi one. Also the price included a S/S 3" mid muffer aswell. (Proper one, not a resonator!)

The dump pipe I have is just a plain ol 3" one. It was $400 but I think what you can do Is buy a FLYN split dump or something like that, bring it in, and get them to make up the rest from there.

They really did some top quality work. I went to them after I saw a friends S13 with the same exhaust on his car. ld recommend them to anyone.....

Well I cant quantitate the noise really. But all I know is that i've compared it to a few other SR20s w/o a center muffler and mines alot quieter. Whether its legal or not, I dont know. Its still probably not. Since when is any 3" free flowing exhaust fully legal? haha

And yes, it included the dump/front pipe too. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...