Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Not sure whats going on but on the way home from work this afternoon my powerfc showed a knock level of 65 when it came onto boost. I thought it may have been a one off so i took for another little run to see what it would do and it came up with a level of 73 and the engine light flickered i believe. Car records a knock level of 1 when first started at idle and when off boost around 6. The engine has only done around 15,000k's and is an rb30/25 conversion. I filled up this morning from a shell using there premium fuel and as far as i can recall didnt come onto boost untill i was on my home when the kock level spiked. Any suggestions on what it may be or anything to check?

Thanks in advance,

Matt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304396-high-knock-levels/
Share on other sites

Hey gfunk,

I am running a cataltic converter. I knocked 4 degrees out of the tune last night and took it for a hard boost and knock levels were fine. According to an experienced friend of mine it indicates the fuel is rubbish. Ill run this fuel out with the timing knocked back and keep the car off boost and fill up with some trusty bp fuel and let you know how it goes. Caltex you break my balls.

Yeah thanks mate. Am planning on using bp ultimate from now on after this incident. Any particular reason why i should use a few more tanks before i put the tune back to normal? Was planning on bumping it up a degree at a time after getting new fuel and giving it a boost and checking levels untill tune is back to normal on the next tank. Im no expert but from what i was told the knock levels i experienced in 2 short bursts yesterday is nothing to worry about in terms of damaging the engine? Of course having those knock levels everyday would be another story.

few tanks means there is no more of the other fuel left, but shouldnt matter much

the knocks wouldnt of done much to the engine, the knock needs to get over 80 to be considered a "true knock"

mine hits 80 one or two times a track day, its not the end of the world :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea the photos aren't the best. When I was pulling the bumper and headlights out there was a bodyshop guy looking on for it, there is a slight bend behind where the passenger headlight is, but we're talking a few MM and there is a little bit of a bend for the reo. That said it's supposedly well within the "Drill a hole in it and pull it out with a slide hammer to be close enough" and be on our way. The other option is to buy a GTR reo for the GTR bumper bits but this is a $2000+ fix for something Mr Hammer can probably do 99% of the job for and everything will/can line up pretty closely-to-good-enough.
    • That's a write off for sure... Part out? 😛 I kid. It looks like the rad support has a minor minor bend in it too where the rep support sits near. Could just be the photos (and me not wearing my glasses right now). Worst case is you can buy a new radiator support, have it swapped over, and leave the car in paint jail for 12 to 18 months while you build the motor to handle twin turbos or a Harrop SC...
    • It seems the definition of "Gregging" something might need to be expanded?
    • This is why I suggested that there is really nothing that can safely be done in the engine bay at this budget level. Just the work to reassure yourself that the engine won't instantly crap itself the moment the boost gets turned up will wear out the piggy bank long before the first turbo gets installed. Spend $10k and still not have any extra performance? My tip is a version of our standard advice from 15 years ago about buying a GTR, which is not to buy one unless you can afford to buy two. The new version is not to modify a GTR unless you have all the funds required to do it all at once, properly, and enough to rebuild it after it blows up.
    • Oh, I forgot to mention this before.  It is accepted that your taking on risk buy turning up the power on a 30 year old stock motor. You can lower the risk with the ECU engine protection, but this is more money on sensors. CAN wideband, oil temp, oil pressure, coolant pressure, fuel pressure, air temp, etc. It adds up quick.  I am a huge fan of running all of the engine protection the ECU offers. You'll have to decide for yourself how you want the engine protection setup and what you think is worth monitoring. 
×
×
  • Create New...