Jump to content
SAU Community

Buying A R35


eastes
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Might be but we're both making assumptions here and I can't be bothered picking up the telephone to prove a point :D

Either way no harm in posting, any info in this thread will help the dudes cause and ultimate decision. Seems to me ADM is the way to go for him anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, decision has been made. The ADM model is for me. JDM's just look like too much trouble tracking one down, no warranty, older series, some japanese buttons, no Australian GPS, unlikely to get color preference. If I'm spending $140k, I'd prefer to pay $40,000 extra for those things.

Conclusion is...

JDM = better for modifying, track car or live close to Willall Racing

ADM = better for daily driver and the odd track day

Now just need to see if I need to wait for this "Series 3" or the MY2010 or something like that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, decision has been made. The ADM model is for me. JDM's just look like too much trouble tracking one down, no warranty, older series, some japanese buttons, no Australian GPS, unlikely to get color preference. If I'm spending $140k, I'd prefer to pay $40,000 extra for those things.

Conclusion is...

JDM = better for modifying, track car or live close to Willall Racing

ADM = better for daily driver and the odd track day

Now just need to see if I need to wait for this "Series 3" or the MY2010 or something like that.

I have a '09 ADM R35 for Sale if you're interested.

http://www.drive.com.au/used-cars/NISSAN/G...189015&pt=1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I can see that...but wasn't the case when I wrote that message. All he had to write back was "don't wish to disclose that information" or something along those lines, which he did, so I guess we can leave it at that right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well all you can do is ask, the responder isn't being forced to give away secret financial stats, we are all adults and we can all make our own choices on what questions we can ask or respond to on a public forum....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That SSR is actually the same (or similar) as the Jaycar 100AMP SSR (which I use). They suggest the resistor to stop the SSR turning on when the ECU turns off (I believe). I personally don't use the resistor as I use the 5V output from the ECU to supply power to the SSR. I do however run a flyback diode, the old Haltech documentation was wrong too and didn't specify the fly back, I mentioned it to a few of their staff and they eventually added it in.
    • I did manage to do this without removing the engine or front cross member, but I had the advantage that the exhaust manifold was removed. I am not setup to support the engine from the top or remove it. 1. Loosen the engine mount nuts so they only have a nut of thread. If it is a manual, I think you have to remove the gearbox to engine support brackets. 2. Jack up the engine off the bottom idler mount. Jack it up till the end of the slot and nut on the mount. You need this clearance to get the pan out at the rear of the engine. 3.Break the sealant seal to sump. I found a oil pan separator tool helpful to get it started. 4. The oil pick up can be removed with the gap available.  5. The oil pan can be removed now. 6. Before assembling, do not apply sealant to the oil pick up area as your hand will rub it all off but apply to the other three and a bit sides. 7. It is a two man job to put the oil pan back, with the sealant, as you do not want it to touch anything and rub off. 8. With one person supporting the oil pan the other can fit the oil pickup 9. Apply the remaining sealant. This would be more difficult with the manifold or turbo in place, but I think it could be done. As you can see my sealant is a bit ugly, but good enough to seal. 10. Lift the sump up to the engine and bolt it on. We found it was easier to use two long guide bolts at each end to get it nice and aligned without touching.
    • I find building an exhaust a really satisfying job! Looks nice!   Did you consider using an oval pipe to get the same cross sectional area but keep it above the chassis rail?
    • @Dose Pipe Sutututu Sounds good.  Just double checking with the pull up resistor indicated in haltech's info sheet for their SSR - https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-030202-solid-state-relay-100-amp/  I'm guessing that would only be if the ECU did not have an internal pull up resistor? Their instructions are pretty strongly worded lol "1K pull-up resistor MUST be fitted." 
    • I wouldn't think you would need a flyback diode, as it's an OEM replacement parts for a fan controller/relay on a Dodge. Another tried and tested option are the Volvo XC90 (or similar) fan controllers.   
×
×
  • Create New...