Jump to content
SAU Community

Light Throttle Issues.

Shaun O

By Shaun O,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Shaun O Enthusiast

Shaun O

Posted
Posted

Annoying problem that's crept itself up, on very very light throttle, the engine stutters a little, like, super light throttle (1k-1.5k~ or so RPM while in neutral) - it's not the throttle cable either because it does it when you manually give it throttle off the throttle body.

Any ideas?

Giving it a tad more throttle and it's no problems. It just makes the ride really jerky sometimes when driving in like 2nd gear at low throttle. It's an RB25DET throttle body (S2)

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304572-light-throttle-issues/
Share on other sites
Shaun O Enthusiast

Shaun O

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Sounds like its running lean there, possibly due to the airflow meter being dirty. Give it a clean first with a can of CRC airflow meter cleaner and see if that fixes the issue first.

Cheers, I don't have any CRC AFM cleaner, will something like Isopropyl Alcohol work?

260tech Proficient

260tech

Posted
Posted

Yup, isoprophyl alc is good, absorbs water & leaves no residue, also check plugs for gaps, & coilpacks for moisture & crap that will make things (sparks) track. give the coilpaks a wash with the iso & spray with a silicon inhibitor. Quote gospel from PI #116

Cheers GW

Shaun O Enthusiast

Shaun O

Posted
  • Author
Posted
are you using an aftermarket ECU?

add some more accel enrichment and see how you go

Nah, just a standard chipped ECU, it hasn't always been an issue and just seems to be intermittent, it barely did it at all on the way to work this morning. I'm still at work though so haven't tried the cleaning stuff yet.

FULL RABBIT OR NO RABBIT!!!!!! noone likes a tortoise, light throttle is for wimps.

Haha, unfortunately that doesn't work so well in peak traffic :(

Plus, I wish my car had a lawnmower style throttle instead of an accelerator pedal :P:D

NZM.031 Grand Master

NZM.031

Posted
Posted

ok so you want it fixed then.

afm or sticky butterfly would be a good place to start... get out with some carby cleaner.

slight vacuum leak.

dodgy injector, may be spraying to much or dribbling out and flooding one cylinder or not spraying enough due to blockage and running lean in one cylinder.

dodgy plug, same as dodgy injector but different.

Shaun O Enthusiast

Shaun O

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I just sprayed the AFM and all the coilpacks with iso alc - left it for a bit to dry then fired her up, it was doing the up n down up n down up n down revs at low throttle still but only for like 10 secs, from then on it seemed all good.

I didn't have any long sockets for the spark plugs but will find some if it happens again over the next few days.

Cheers guys.

Shaun O Enthusiast

Shaun O

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Changed the spark plugs, no difference - thought I wanted to change them anyway :) (and only $20NZD for the set, can't go wrong)

Until on my way home, hit a little boost and FSHHHHH, the silicone joiner between the turbo and the intercooler piping blows off.

I have a feeling this has been the problem all along, leaking out of top of this joiner.

Gotta try my best to get it on real good tomorrow morning, will post back results.

Shaun O Enthusiast

Shaun O

Posted
  • Author
Posted
good work man... that will do it. hope its all good.

Yeah cheers, I tried my best but I think my hose clamps are being shit as well as the 90 degree silicone bend.

Getting a 90 degree stainless welded onto the end of the intercooler piping to eliminate the 90 degree silicone bend and put a straight silicone joiner between the turbo and IC piping instead.

Actually works out to be similar price in the end anyway, just a little more hassle but becomes better off in the long run.

Going to get a new hose clamp as well to replace the one that I think is no good.

Will post back results tomorrow night ;)

Shaun O Enthusiast

Shaun O

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just f**ked around with hose clamps and shit just to see if I can have it running a bit nicer for tomorrows driving.

Started the car up, idling like f**kin' shit, hunting up and down, getting worse and worse and then stalling.

'f**k this' I think to myself, get in the car and just go for a wicked thrash.

Park back up again, idling like a f**kin' dream and not being gay on low throttle, WTF!

So see what happens tomorrow morning on the way to work! - Still going to replace the silicone 90 degree with stainless steel though.

Shaun O Enthusiast

Shaun O

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What AFM are you running? It might have the dreaded bad solder joints on the board inside.

It's an RB25DET S2 AFM, I have a 300ZX AFM here ready to go in whenever I can get the car tuned/chipped.

Is it something that I can fix myself? Or if I open it up will it be easily spotted?

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      That's right, simple but works. Run out of load? Rescale the table lol. Want to be lazy and not rescale? Drag the K
    • IM-32-FK
      Feedback on Carbonetics: R34 GTT cooling panel

      By IM-32-FK · Posted

      @DraftySquash @Duncan he's not talking about the part that sits against the radiator support, he’s talking about the lip that sits towards the front outside of the car. anyway I had a look at other cooling panels and came across this one https://justjap.com/products/carbing-radiator-cooling-panel-plate-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-t?variant=37829684134087&currency=AUD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Advanced feed&utm_content=Carbing Radiator Cooling Panel Plate fits Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T (Coupe)&srsltid=AfmBOoonzPDKqe9NgKi5U0AkFc2XvbXETGmNWvfNcyBT5DUZagMYHg9DZ70 if you take notice it’s the same shape.  well thankfully the justjap listing has a description and it says : - Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T Coupe (M/T -07/2000) this means it’s specifically for a s2. S2’s have different front bars to s1 so that lip with the 3 holes are *probably* mounting points for the s2 bar. im not 100% sure but im almost certain it will still fit a s1 bar       
    • MBS206
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Everyone is too used to learning from places like HPA "how to tune" and what to expect at what point, rather than being able to see "The computer says I'm in cell with Row = 8, column =4, and I can see my fuel is lean, so lets add more" Everyone wants "real units", which helps for someone picking it up for the first time and seeing how bad the tune is if they're not used to touching it.   However, I think for most of us who want to play with it, you're 100% right, we're only needing to learn about it for OUR CAR. Which makes it great, and we don't need to care what the real values are, we just need to know which cell it is, that's causing the lean or rich point, or that we want more ignition timing or less. But again, everyone wants everything super you beaut and nearly self tuning, with VE maps, and a billion compensations...   Though then there's me over here when I'm doing reverse engineering work just reading data in hex format that most people couldn't work anything out from. Yet I can see what's going on.
    • blind_elk
      [VIC] RB20DET Block

      By blind_elk · Posted

      Gone.
    • EC04
      R34 Skyline Knee Pads

      By EC04 · Posted

      €1.300    €
×
×
  • Create New...