Jump to content
SAU Community

"slip" Light Making Cornering Unpleasant..

BXAFTW

By BXAFTW,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

BXAFTW Community Regular

BXAFTW

Posted
Posted

id really appreciate a few questions being answered for me.. any help is better than where im at now.

1. when cornering fast, the "SLIP" light comes on in my r34gtt's dash, at roughly the same time, it feels like fuel is

cut to the engine and momentum is seriously halted, is this the same as the "TCS" off button? which doesnt seem

to stop it? how can i turn this off?

2. hicas light comes on every once in a while, doesnt seem to do anything though.. is this an issue?

3. turbosmart dual stage boost controller doesnt seem to change boost settings, i checked with a multimeter to see if the boost controller was getting the signal to change to high boost when i flick the rocket switch and it is, however boost always stays the same at 0.6 bar. i wound up the high setting a few notches and still no difference, anyone know what could be going on?

4. the tubosmart dsbc (above) is teed into the line between the turbo and wastegate, where it should be.. however

there is a second gated boost controller teed into the line between the intake manifold and a little electronic box

with "boost sender" written on it.. obviously this isnt going to effect boost, so why is it there? simpy to trick the

boost sender with a lower reading?

cheers for the help guys.

BXAFTW Community Regular

BXAFTW

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ive also just done an epic search and read up on the common slip/tcs problem and will see 666dan re: gizmo to turn tcs off automatically, however, when i press the tcs button, no "tcs off" light comes up on my dash, as it sounds like it should.. is this a problem with the switch or the tcs backlight?

also forgot to add question 5. perhaps the most worrying.

5. when im driving along in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear and realease the throttle but still in gear, i get this loud scraping noise coming from waht seems like the lhs passenger door, its obviously a mechanical type noise and very hard to explain, like theres sand/gravel traveeling down exhaust after the turbo.. only happens on over-run though. does anyone know what this may be? completely goes away after i press throttle again..

OMGGTR Mentor

OMGGTR

Posted
Posted

Ok when u have NO TCS light up on ur cluster this means TCS ( Traction controll ) is enabled.... this means if u corner to hard... or slip by any chance.. the car will try help u correct it...to gain traction. this means that u will see SLIP SLIP flashing on ur cluster...

when u press ur TCS button and on ur cluster it says TCS off this means obviously traction controll is off meaning if u slip... its all up to u to gain traction u will not see the SLIP flash on ur cluster while TCS is off..

with respect to the button not working.. maby it is just light problems or maby the system is faulty.. ?

and that gravel noise neva herd anything like it... maby u got rocks in ur zorst lol ? i cant help u with that

cheers

George

.:: GimpS-R34 ::. Grand Master

.:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Posted
Posted

start your car.. then press the tcs button.. even if your light isnt on leave it.. then go round your corners and see if traction control still kicking in.. if not then you can prob put it down to dead bulb.. but keep the fast corners off the road eh.. unless your a hero

what are you doing when the hicas comes on or is it just random?

BXAFTW Community Regular

BXAFTW

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hicas appears to be random, and no, heroics dont belong on streets im well aware of this.

went out last night to double check everything again, and it seems the tcs off button does work as does the backlight as it displays "tcs off" and no fuel cuts around corners.. so thats all sorted, i think i was just worried as im unfamiliar with these cars. however i know enough to know it needs new coils.

does anyone know about question 5? or has anyone experienced similar? i know its weird, but on over-run the car makes what sounds like a sharp buffeting noise from what sounds like the lhs? only at higher revs say above 3000rpm hence why it only seems to do it in 1st 2nd and 3rd..

has got me stumped.

.:: GimpS-R34 ::. Grand Master

.:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Posted
Posted (edited)

leave the car in neutral and rev past 3k and have someone outside trace it down.. its hard for anyone to diagnose that over the internet without more detail/sound

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Milkmun
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • MBS206
      Can't put strut back

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • MBS206
      Can't put strut back

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • GTSBoy
      Can't put strut back

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...