Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Cars Can We Beat ?

ripstah
 Share

Recommended Posts

xtc Proficient

xtc

Posted
Posted

My experience... And obviously on closed roads or track

Commowhores v6 even late models yes but barely

v8 early yes late ss ssv hsv from start to prob 60-80km they"ll pull away

ford v6 yes same as above

xr6 snail dono but the f6 I have but for some reason I manage to keep up until I hit my limiter.

Don't bother with the new 310 I got hurted.

For brief wrx yes. Sti nope. Evo side by side. Ep82 starlet barely but was stock. 320-325ci yes.

Car that I havnt tried against are hyundais.

All above are my experience and from what I know also they prob were all stock

Touge Kyousou Experienced

Touge Kyousou

Posted
Posted

Why don't you just time your car 0-100 or goto the local drag strip and get your 1/4 time then go get some car mags..they'll have 0-100 and 1/4 mile data for most cars on the market. Just borrow some mates old copy to check for older models if curious. Easy. And you don't get busted either!

If you wanted to compare lap times, try www.fastestlaps.com

An 03 350gt will lap tsukuba in the same time as an 03z (being 1min 9.1 seconds).

Touge Kyousou Experienced

Touge Kyousou

Posted
Posted

Of course! :)

But to that point, if you can't launch or shift your car well, then you probably don't need to be thinking about what cars you can beat on the strip, at least not yet.

From memory when i was looking for info on 350gt's after i placed a deposit on one - Auto does 0-100 in bit under 7 secs, manual does it in 6.6 secs.

TALBO Grand Master

TALBO

Posted
Posted

Imo, one also has to consider how many JDM decals are on the car. Placement of said decals should also be taken into consideration..... e.g. decals on the front of the door yeild more rwkw than decals on windows

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      First/Second Post

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • soviet_merlin
      Oem radio & steering wheel shroud for r33 (vic)

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...