Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

jap average is around 15k even though for some reason everyone assumes otherwise. This is why it should be assumed that cars are wound back.

If they were such perfect low km examples, they would have been bought by the domestic market, not flogged to overseas customers at the auctions :)

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I paid a good price :)

The car was imported in 2000 with 2,000kms on the clock. That owner had it for 2.5 years and put another 12,000 on it. So yeah - I was lucky. Just like a run-in new car.

I think a lot depends on locality. A lot of people in the Tokyo area only use their cars on the weekend, so a lot of those cars can go 2 or 3 years without putting on any serious K's. Where I am, out in the mountains, there isn't much public transport, everything is spread out and owning/driving a car on a daily basis is just about unavoidable...

in the last 2 years I've owned the car I think I put about 25000 k's on the car. I got it at a cool 40000k's (with books and service manuals from a nissan authorised dealer to back it up) and the servicing was as regular as clockwork too, I think the previous driver was a hot jap babe or sumfin (knowing my luck it'll be a non-milfish mom).

Bought the car 2 1/2 years ago with 42,000 on the clock. The condition of the car and the log books matched the KM stated.

Now it's up to 85,000 and hasn't missed a beat.

Had the front castor rod thingies replaced but that's it.

J

bought it with 65000km, now 96000km. Bought it in july 2001. travelled 200kms a week to work, major problems was the worn front castor bushes and busted stock clutch(what do you expect from 180rwkw@CAS) otherwise a great car. 100000km major service now due along with worn rear tyres.

How much did it cost to get these replaced and what difference if any did you notice after they had been replaced ?

G'day Ben,

I had the same problem. The factory castor rod bushes are filled with some sort of gell/fluid stuff and are prone to leaking.

Mine were picked up at the last wheel alighnment I had done.

I couldn't tell you if there was any handling improvement cause at that stage I went from the JIC coilovers to standard shocks with 25mm lower springs (hence why I got the alighmnet done :D ).

One thing I did notice was that it now has a slight squeak sometimes !

I think the cost was $120 for the parts and about $60 for fitting.

Cheers

J

I had the front bushes replaced in my car and noticed a difference in the turning response. It was a lot quicker and sharper. The stock ones were shot, had tears in them. I got the polyurathane ones (i think thats what they were made of) and they are a lot stiffer than the old ones.

I got mine a bit over 2yrs ago with 62 000k and just tonight clocked over 110 000k, the only problem I have had is the crank case seal went about 6 months ago otherwise perfect. That includes skidpan and track days, many runs down the 1/4 at willowbank and trips to Sydney from Brisbane. Been a great car so far.

Edit: Oh yeah forgot, had to do the caster bushes when I first got the car.

I bought mine with 101 000 on the clock and got the timing belt done. The mechanic said it was its first belt (becuase it was so shagged) so there is a good chance the km's are geniune. Now there is 123 000 ks on the clock. I have driven about 20 000ks in about 8 months, so my new years resoultion is to start catching the bus to work and leave the car at home to keep the ks down.

I also had to get the castor bushes replaced because they were leaking oil. Couldnt notice any handling difference because I only had the car a day when I got the work done.

Other problems with it were the clutch (general wear & tear I'd say) and a couple of exhaust manifold studs missing. Other than that, i think its a healthy RB20.

Changed the plugs a couple of days back (about 30 000ks old) and they seemed to be in pretty good condition (all had the same sort of wear).

/end rant

got it with 89,000kms, have now done 145,000kms..

only problem was the muffler which I replaced it when i first imported it...and just recently somethings shorting out in the steering column causing the indicators to go haywire (still to be fixed).

I bought my '33 with 74,000 on the clock (skeptical), now has 164,000. Only things that have gone wrong is the clutch (it just wore out) and the ECU stopped sending tacho signals, but otherwise worked perfectly?? The only problem with the engine is one lash adjuster seems to be worn so it has a light ticking noise occasionally, but otherwise it's been 100% reliable. I service it every 5,000km -7,500km with full synthetic oil and filters changed etc and treat it with mechanical sympathy, so that's gotta help longevity.

Seems a lot of people have had problems with the radius rod bushes tearing etc. (Just as I did) The mechanic told me when I had mine replaced that they quite often fail by 60,000kms.

Those of u that have replaced them, are u getting the stiffer ones or the stock ones from nissan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
    • If the original NA ECU has a separate TCU then you are going to need to reroute wires that used to run between the trans and the TCU to the appropriate (1 to 1 equivalent) pins on the ECU. Other than that, it should work. Look up posts by @Kinkstaah on the subject.
    • So the stagea was a series 2 neo det with tiptronic auto. (I have the transmission aswell) and has integrated tcu in the ecu. I'm hoping to use the entire stagea ecu, engine and auto harness. 
×
×
  • Create New...