Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

jap average is around 15k even though for some reason everyone assumes otherwise. This is why it should be assumed that cars are wound back.

If they were such perfect low km examples, they would have been bought by the domestic market, not flogged to overseas customers at the auctions :)

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I paid a good price :)

The car was imported in 2000 with 2,000kms on the clock. That owner had it for 2.5 years and put another 12,000 on it. So yeah - I was lucky. Just like a run-in new car.

I think a lot depends on locality. A lot of people in the Tokyo area only use their cars on the weekend, so a lot of those cars can go 2 or 3 years without putting on any serious K's. Where I am, out in the mountains, there isn't much public transport, everything is spread out and owning/driving a car on a daily basis is just about unavoidable...

in the last 2 years I've owned the car I think I put about 25000 k's on the car. I got it at a cool 40000k's (with books and service manuals from a nissan authorised dealer to back it up) and the servicing was as regular as clockwork too, I think the previous driver was a hot jap babe or sumfin (knowing my luck it'll be a non-milfish mom).

Bought the car 2 1/2 years ago with 42,000 on the clock. The condition of the car and the log books matched the KM stated.

Now it's up to 85,000 and hasn't missed a beat.

Had the front castor rod thingies replaced but that's it.

J

bought it with 65000km, now 96000km. Bought it in july 2001. travelled 200kms a week to work, major problems was the worn front castor bushes and busted stock clutch(what do you expect from 180rwkw@CAS) otherwise a great car. 100000km major service now due along with worn rear tyres.

How much did it cost to get these replaced and what difference if any did you notice after they had been replaced ?

G'day Ben,

I had the same problem. The factory castor rod bushes are filled with some sort of gell/fluid stuff and are prone to leaking.

Mine were picked up at the last wheel alighnment I had done.

I couldn't tell you if there was any handling improvement cause at that stage I went from the JIC coilovers to standard shocks with 25mm lower springs (hence why I got the alighmnet done :D ).

One thing I did notice was that it now has a slight squeak sometimes !

I think the cost was $120 for the parts and about $60 for fitting.

Cheers

J

I had the front bushes replaced in my car and noticed a difference in the turning response. It was a lot quicker and sharper. The stock ones were shot, had tears in them. I got the polyurathane ones (i think thats what they were made of) and they are a lot stiffer than the old ones.

I got mine a bit over 2yrs ago with 62 000k and just tonight clocked over 110 000k, the only problem I have had is the crank case seal went about 6 months ago otherwise perfect. That includes skidpan and track days, many runs down the 1/4 at willowbank and trips to Sydney from Brisbane. Been a great car so far.

Edit: Oh yeah forgot, had to do the caster bushes when I first got the car.

I bought mine with 101 000 on the clock and got the timing belt done. The mechanic said it was its first belt (becuase it was so shagged) so there is a good chance the km's are geniune. Now there is 123 000 ks on the clock. I have driven about 20 000ks in about 8 months, so my new years resoultion is to start catching the bus to work and leave the car at home to keep the ks down.

I also had to get the castor bushes replaced because they were leaking oil. Couldnt notice any handling difference because I only had the car a day when I got the work done.

Other problems with it were the clutch (general wear & tear I'd say) and a couple of exhaust manifold studs missing. Other than that, i think its a healthy RB20.

Changed the plugs a couple of days back (about 30 000ks old) and they seemed to be in pretty good condition (all had the same sort of wear).

/end rant

got it with 89,000kms, have now done 145,000kms..

only problem was the muffler which I replaced it when i first imported it...and just recently somethings shorting out in the steering column causing the indicators to go haywire (still to be fixed).

I bought my '33 with 74,000 on the clock (skeptical), now has 164,000. Only things that have gone wrong is the clutch (it just wore out) and the ECU stopped sending tacho signals, but otherwise worked perfectly?? The only problem with the engine is one lash adjuster seems to be worn so it has a light ticking noise occasionally, but otherwise it's been 100% reliable. I service it every 5,000km -7,500km with full synthetic oil and filters changed etc and treat it with mechanical sympathy, so that's gotta help longevity.

Seems a lot of people have had problems with the radius rod bushes tearing etc. (Just as I did) The mechanic told me when I had mine replaced that they quite often fail by 60,000kms.

Those of u that have replaced them, are u getting the stiffer ones or the stock ones from nissan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • it was good to see our presence at GTR festival..hope to see more SAU at these events 
    • This is awesome.     
    • Thanks for the quick replies guys its appreciated. A small extension was welded onto the standard 6boost external gate pipe which you can see where the pipe goes from black to stainless just below and to the right of the rear housing in the first picture. Overall I would say the flow is pretty good other than 6boosts choice to come straight off the collector at a decent angle.. Not sure why I went with two valves, I originally replaced the stock twin bovs with the GFB when I had the twins on. When I purchased the EFR it came with the Turbosmart Kompact BOV so I figured that would be a better option than the stock EFR Bov. I don't believe the Turbosmart BOV is adjustable? When I get the spike and then sudden dip in boost pressure, the turbo speed does drop as well. Stock head size wise however I believe it has Neo Turbo springs and a Neo Turbo intake camshaft and an aftermarket exhaust camshaft in the vicinity of 260 degrees. We didn't try a different MAC valve, we tried two different ways of plumbing it and we also tried removing the mac valve entirely and just having the boost source from the turbo directly connected to the wastegate and it still spiked / dropped and exhibited the same behaviour. Standard R33 GTR 5 speed tansmission. I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 and can provide some logs if you. I understand what you're saying in that it looks like an auto plot however no, it's still a manual and it just has a lot of torque down low, for all intents and purposes it's a very impressive street car. I've attached a photo of the quickbitz dyno plot which was when the only difference is I was running -5 twin turbos with a mac valve. As you can see theres a decent dip in AFRs between 125kmh and 135kmh. Our problem now is not that the AFRs are dropping, just the boost pressure is dropping, however it is evident in the same RPM range of the map, coincidentally or not.
    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
×
×
  • Create New...