Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I installed these last year in my RB25 and I recently found they have lopped off my oil squirters.

Supertech says this is the first time they've heard of the issue. However you are never going to notice a problem unless you check your high RPM oil pressure or do a very close examination of your oil during an oil change.

Here they are

photocvq.jpg

The only one that wasn't damaged was #6 which I had broken the guide pin during installation and then had to eye ball alignment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304812-anyone-running-supertech-pistons/
Share on other sites

that sucks. they may just need spacing out to clear where ever they are hitting, or you may (bigger?) cut outs in the piston skirts to clear them. but cutting into the skirts after finishing is not ideal. it's better if you can adjust the position of the squirters a bit. just depends how much interference there is between the two and the skirt design, skirt length etc. got any pics of the pistons?

I've already blocked the squirters as I've already been without their aid for 8 months now with no problems. I had my engine previously balanced and didn't want to touch the pistons again.

A spacer may put the squirter bolt head in the path of the counter weight. Though you maybe be able to remove the aligment pin and adjust the squirter for more clearance. Which is what happened to the #6 squirter unintentionally and it happens to be the only one untouched.

Here is the pic of one of the pistons before installation:

003aa.jpg

you should claim compensation regardless of if the motors been running fine or not.

Why would you claim compensation? It's the assemblers responsibility to make sure nothing hits anything else. Think of it as a learning experience.

There's enough room to space down the squirters or you can grind the locating lug a little to rotate them where you want them to sit.

I did check for clearance while cranked the engine over by hand. There seemed to be enough clearance then. Now I know while the engine running the clearances will change. This is a design fault, it's not like it's a custom piston.

Anyway I sent supertech pictures and they agree they need a look over.

" from Martin Tagliavini <[email protected]>

to Leon A <@gmail.com>

date Thu, Jan 21, 2010 at 1:20 PM

subject RE: supertechperformance.com - Contact Form

hide details 1:20 PM (17 hours ago)

Thank you Leon

From the photos seems that the cut needs to be deeper. I will ask our factory to check on the OE sample we have and see what is going on.

Martin T.

Supertech Inc.

3580 Charter Park Dr, San Jose CA 95136

Ph. 408-448-2001 / Fx 408-448-3700

www.supertechperformance.com"

Edited by maximajim

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
×
×
  • Create New...