R32 Gtr Digital Clock

[Bozz]

How hard is it to get the clock out? And is there a tutorial on this? Would love to take my clock apart but not game until I can see it step by step... If you could make a quick one that would be awesome!

Hey mate,

It needs very experienced hands to de/resolder. If you've never used a desoldering station to remove large integrated circuits before, I'd leave it for a pro. If you print out the photos and take it to a TV repair shop, they should fix it for well under $100, I'd guess $50 or so.

Someone else said they cut all the pins on the VFL then resoldered them back on after fixing the problem.

It will work if you can't desolder however I'd be stupidly careful, would be so easy to chip the glass by cutting the pins because its puts a lot of force on a tiny area of the display.

[Samuel Leonard]

I'm not even sure what a desoldering station is i've done a fair bit of soldering but never delicate stuff. Sound systems and stuff. So if I just took those photos you posted a few months back and explained that it's the solder on those 30 ohm resistors they'd know what I'm talking about and be able to do it? What if they broke it? Would I have to source a new one?

[petiseb]

Thanks a lot for this topic and thanks bozz. I repaired my digital clock today, and it work !

I used a desoldering station to remove the "front panel" and i resoldered the 4 resistances (just 1 needed it). Time of this operation : 30 min.

[jmhinkle]

If my VFL has a burnt spot in the corner, is there any saving it? Not sure how to upload the picture from my phone. No normal forum upload link.

[Piggaz]

^^ open a photobucket account, upload it to there and copy the link.

[Sinista32]

It would be appreciated if someone could do this a service for other 32 owners on a profit basis.

I'm sure there is heaps that need doing.

I've had a few dead ones.

Manage to find a working one and was lucky enough to find and squirrel away a new one for when the current one goes.

[jiffo]

Think there's a parallel thread regarding the repair of these.

Sam was offering a repair service after buying the de-soldering gear and having success.

Was quite a while ago now.

[Sinista32]

Cool - wasn't sure.

I'll use search

[Samuel Leonard]

Hey guys, yeah I fixed mine and I'm happy to fix them for $50. I also will pay for postage if anyone has a dead one handy I'll give you $10 for it?

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

^^was it dry solder issue under the glass as well?

[jmhinkle]

Here is what my glass looks like. No dry solder on the outer joints like the z32 thread shows, but haven't checked under the glass after seeing it like this.

[jiffo]

You won't see the dry joints there Joel, have to lift the vacuum display to expose the 3-resistors.

Carefully !!!!

[Samuel Leonard]

Yes, it was the resistors under the VFD. I now have a rework station and I'm happy if people want to post them to me and I'll post them back. I live in SA. Just text or call

0431 398 657

[Samuel Leonard]

Jmhinkle, the burnt corner of the glass is how they deal those displays. It's called a vacuum fluorescent display and they suck the air out of the screen and then burn the corner to seal it. The burn mark does not indicate a faulty display.

[jmhinkle]

You won't see the dry joints there Joel, have to lift the vacuum display to expose the 3-resistors.

Carefully !!!!

Not completely true. There is a thread on a Z32 Forum, which used the same clock, that found the two resistors on the back with dry solder cracks as well. That's what I was referring to when I initially pulled it apart.

Jmhinkle, the burnt corner of the glass is how they deal those displays. It's called a vacuum fluorescent display and they suck the air out of the screen and then burn the corner to seal it. The burn mark does not indicate a faulty display.

The corner burn on my VFD seemed quite large so I was concerned, but looking back at the pictures posted it is there too. Once my family has left town and I have some time, I will break out the desoldering station and pull it apart. Thanks for the help and clarification.

[jmhinkle]

I unhooked the VFD, resoldered the resistors below and a few other spots as well. When I power it up now it comes on at 1:00, but none of the buttons seem to work. Any ideas on that?

[nk7]

How bad is it resurrecting a 4 month old thread?? I assume this is similar to GTST models as well - just pop her open and figure out if resistors or solder etc??

Also, PM'd @Samuel Leonard

I unhooked the VFD, resoldered the resistors below and a few other spots as well. When I power it up now it comes on at 1:00, but none of the buttons seem to work. Any ideas on that?

Did you sort this out? And is there any issues with Vacuum display not being under vacuum anymore?

[jmhinkle]

100 is the normal time they reset too. I've redone a few of them. I do have a desoldering station so no issues with pulling the VFD. Trying to do it by hand without at least a really good desoldering iron will be extremely hard. You have to get those contacts clean before attempting VFD removal. I've been replacing the 3 buttons as well. I picked up a bag of 100 pretty cheap and I've seen several dead button so far when they come in.

[nk7]

So replacing the buttons did the trick? I might see if anyone has a faulty unit to play with first.

You redo faulty ones @jmhinkle? PM'd

[jmhinkle]

Buttons and resoldering the resistors under the VFD fixes everything. I do repair them, but I'm in the US and started the service for people here since we are just now getting the cars. If you want to ship to me I can do it.