Jump to content
SAU Community

Shocks For An Mr30 Sedan


Recommended Posts

Hi all. I have only just joined today and I hope this post is where it should be...

If not, sorry and I'm sure someone will set me straight.

My names Rob and I have just bought my son an MR30 sedan to do motorsport stuff in.

I have a rally 240Z and was attracted to the Skyline cos I sort of understand Dattos and the Skyline was cheap and I could just stick a 2.8 280ZX motor in it..

We have run it once at a club khanacross but the shocks are ...well, not very functional ....

Does anyone know where I can get some cheap shocks ?

Are they an orphan type that arent like R31s at all...?

Can I fit some out of something else?

It is a cheap car $500.00 and I haven't got the funds to source Bilsteins or Konis and really for what we are using the car for at the moment.. some gas shocks would be fine....

Hoping someone can help here....and thanks for having me..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

There's also R30 discussion over in the 'Classic Skylines' section : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cl...ylines-f77.html

(and some R30 khanacross discussion as well, see recent posts by 'Daewoo')

cheers,

JH

Thanks for that. I know Daewoo... We rallied together both in his 1600 and my Zed......I'll check it out.

Buggsy.

Edited by McBuggsy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For what you want, I reckon some Pedders shocks would suffice. Or you could go up a grade and get some KYB or Tockico shocks. Not as good as Bilsteins / Konis, but not as expensive either! And Pedders will be able to do HD springs as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone. That is the info I need. I will contact them re shocks. I had heard that the rears were the same as R31's but when i looked up a Monroe catalogue, they had different part numbers.

Anyway thanks again...

better get some pics of our khahnacross weapon up here eh?

Buggsy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone. That is the info I need. I will contact them re shocks. I had heard that the rears were the same as R31's but when i looked up a Monroe catalogue, they had different part numbers.

Anyway thanks again...

better get some pics of our khahnacross weapon up here eh?

Buggsy.

The R31 rear shocks have a 20mm shorter stroke, which is great for us tarmac terrorists with lowered cars, but for your dirt works, I would get the originals if still available. Koni & Bilstein no longer make the standard R30 configuration rear shock.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...