Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The most likely cause is the ECU spazing out at the increased boost and doing some R&R to save the engine

I'd be very surprised if its a VCT issue especially seen as it wont be working at the RPM you have mentioned anyway

My thoughts are unhappy stock ECU or coilpacks breaking down

I'm not sure about the flat spot thing mentioned but my car does the same thing since lifting the boost up so I'm interested to see if the VCT is the cause?

But if you want to test this i would suggest just unplugging the vct at the head going for a drive (as i believe it only works when in gear, not idling) then plugging it back in and see if it makes a difference.

I think the reason they don't want you to join straight to the battery is chances are you will use the wrong gauge wire without a fuse and shit will get hot and it's just dodgy having something permanently powered when the car is off unless its a memory function for something.

VCT does not stop working when you bump the boost up.

If you have a stock ECU and increase the boost then have problems with power/engine cutting out/engine feeling doughy, then the most likely cause is R&R, built into the ECU to prevent an accidental overboost from destroying your engine. It's not a case of it being 'sensitive' to boost, the car was designed to run 7psi max, so the ECU takes a better safe then sorry approach when it calculates airflow exceeding that.

Unplug your VCT, see if it feels worse, if it does then its definently not your VCT.

It will be the ECU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just a follow-up on this topic. From what I can tell so far the rusty residue on the engine block might be unrelated to a coolant leak or maybe just older than anticipated. After driving it from the winter garage to my friend's garage I could not see any new traces of coolant leaking there, but I will test this properly once I was able to fully warm up the car and drive it for a bit. I think I can agree that the whole porous engine block stuff is kind of nonsense, but there is just a silly amount of true, false and half-true information on anything Skyline-related on the internet.
    • hrmmm , not mine , easter plans to pull engine not happening     
    • I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
    • Quick update.  The engine grounding strap was replaced, the engine is now happily running.  Tested the voltage drop before replacing the strap, was about 1.2ish volts down between engine to battery, chassis to battery. With the new grounding strap, pretty much no voltage drop at all. 
×
×
  • Create New...