Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i want to increase my r32 and i dont no want to do ! i want more power!

i have:

r34 neo turbo

3" turbo back exaust with screamer

Full greddy FMIC Aftermarket Fuel pump

3A Racing Pod Filter

aftermarket BOV

if any of use can give me any suggestions that i can do to increase my power it would be much appreciated!!!

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304947-what-do-i-do/
Share on other sites

GTR fuel injectors, front mount intercooler, cam gears, forged pistons, tune up, aftermarket computer, e-boost controller so you can muck around with the boost between gears... space ship engine internals.

There is a couple of DIY threads on the following. One of the best theads is the is the dyno thread. You can see the results for your self.

rb20 mods sticky - dyno results with mods.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...amp;hl=r32+mods

Good place to get some ideas.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304947-what-do-i-do/#findComment-5047904
Share on other sites

Well considering you are running 8psi on the stock ECU the smart choice would be to get an aftermarket ECU and tune it to 10-12psi.

EDIT: Damn it you beat me to it ^

I ran 18psi on a highflow on the factory ecu for years. As long as the AFM doesn't max out, then the ECU will keep running it properly. I was getting 4.95V on the AFM though :blush:

Generally that goes for most ECU's, if you don't max out the inputs, it will still present a stable output. The AFM is always the first to max, they always select bigger injectors from factory to 'outflow' the AFM.

The factory injectors are usually safe to 200rwkw as long as the pump is up to the task. The AFM is getting sketchy around 180rwkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304947-what-do-i-do/#findComment-5047942
Share on other sites

I ran 18psi on a highflow on the factory ecu for years. As long as the AFM doesn't max out, then the ECU will keep running it properly. I was getting 4.95V on the AFM though :blush:

Generally that goes for most ECU's, if you don't max out the inputs, it will still present a stable output. The AFM is always the first to max, they always select bigger injectors from factory to 'outflow' the AFM.

The factory injectors are usually safe to 200rwkw as long as the pump is up to the task. The AFM is getting sketchy around 180rwkw

Yeah i ran the GT-RS on 14-16psi on the stock ECU, ran rich as f**k and made hardly any more power :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304947-what-do-i-do/#findComment-5047982
Share on other sites

Don't get the plugs with the "S" on the end of the part number unless they only have them in stock, means they are standard and don't have the V-groove and they cost the same.

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304947-what-do-i-do/#findComment-5048958
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
×
×
  • Create New...