Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I am trying to mount my Alpine Type R Subwoofer. The box doesnt fit without requiring me to take out the spare wheel. I have taken out the spare wheel and placed the subwoofer into the space where the spare tyre goes and i plan to relocate the spare wheel later. I dont want to change the box because this box is tuned to the matching subwoofer.

I got some L brackets, went on tough on the box but i mount the other end to the chassis and go for a drive around the block and bang it comes right off from the chassis. I am using correct screws for metal and keeping them short so it doesn't start screwing into the fuel tank.

I have run out of ideas any help would be greatly appreciated.

If anyone requires pictures i can take some tommorow.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304958-mounting-subwoofer-headaches/
Share on other sites

Hey,

I am trying to mount my Alpine Type R Subwoofer. The box doesnt fit without requiring me to take out the spare wheel. I have taken out the spare wheel and placed the subwoofer into the space where the spare tyre goes and i plan to relocate the spare wheel later. I dont want to change the box because this box is tuned to the matching subwoofer.

I got some L brackets, went on tough on the box but i mount the other end to the chassis and go for a drive around the block and bang it comes right off from the chassis. I am using correct screws for metal and keeping them short so it doesn't start screwing into the fuel tank.

I have run out of ideas any help would be greatly appreciated.

If anyone requires pictures i can take some tommorow.

Thanks

that box isnt designed right if you have to remove your spare to fit it(sounds like a generic box and some BS a salesmen told you to me). so I wont even go into what you should do to fit it to the chassis

Thanks for the reply sapphiregraphics,

Although the box is an genuine Alpine Type R Box which is the reason why i don't want to change the box, the trunk of a r32 is quite small height wise. That is why i had to remove the spare wheel because the box was few centimeters to tall.

Although the box is an genuine Alpine Type R Box which is the reason why i don't want to change the box, the trunk of a r32 is quite small height wise. That is why i had to remove the spare wheel because the box was few centimeters to tall.

So what you mean is that you have a craptacular generic alpine box which isnt made for your car, doesnt take into account the vehicles design, your requirements, the amp your using or anything else. Oh I forgot to mention the problem of not having a spare etc..

Its an easy fix.

Throw the box away and build a custom one that is tuned for the car, the sub, the power you have (amp in rms) and your musical tastes.

You can also build a box that allows you to have the spare secured in the factory location with relatively easy access to it should you need it.

Problem solved.

Thanks for the reply sapphiregraphics,

Although the box is an genuine Alpine Type R Box which is the reason why i don't want to change the box, the trunk of a r32 is quite small height wise. That is why i had to remove the spare wheel because the box was few centimeters to tall.

I think you meant Generic, they make them to fit shop windows/showrooms , not for the best sound in your required car/space

if you dont think its generic then it should fit like a glove , designed for exact car ?

ditch the box and build custom or mutilate it to fit

  • 1 month later...

those alpine boxes are a no go for imports. every salesperson should know that.

take it back and swap it for the same woofer in a smaller sealed enclousure. they sound pretty average in that box anyway, sealed sounds much better.

  • 2 weeks later...

got a custom sealed fibreglass sub box that goes in the RHS side of the boot, and doesn't come out past the edge of the boot lip. I still have 95% of my boot space and I have plenty of bass.

why you'd put a big sub enclosure in a car i have NO idea.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...