Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26det Misfire And Low Oil Pressure

AE86 Spoontah

By AE86 Spoontah,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

AE86 Spoontah Rookie

AE86 Spoontah

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, only just recently i have had trouble with my engine misfiring bad. Its an R33 26 with big single in an R32 GTS-T, WOLF 3d, near brand new plugs gapped to .7, stock coils. It has never happened before until it was about 30deg the other night and usually after about 15mins of normal driving it starts.

I was driving along at about 4000 rpm in second and it started sounding like your typical boxer engine, and assumed an injector plug had come off as it's done it to me before. Checked all plugs and the problem stopped . . . maybe not. Started the car up, sounded good, drove along and it came back then disappeared, came back, disappeared etc. it even happens on idle sometimes (it's an extremely rapid misfire sounding like a machine gun haha)

Doesn't matter what gear or what rpm but gets really bad when you load the engine up or stay on constant throttle, and if you hit boost it will go away sometimes. The stock oil pressure gauge in the dash will get close to zero then jump to about 4, then just fall and rise as it pleases. Engine doesn't blow smoke and no oil in turbo inlet or exhaust.

I have checked all plugs and had to change number one as it looked fried (less than 2000km old).The rest still look new

Cut out each injector while car was running to see if there was no change on one. all good though

Changed fuel filter over in case it was blocked

I'm guessing i should just seal my coils with silicone and do a comp test but while i'm there should i be looking at anything else.

Any help appreciated

Edited by AE86 Spoontah
AE86 Spoontah Rookie

AE86 Spoontah

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No i havent and there is no AFM. . .

but i have a theory after drivng home today. Another hot day and after 10 mins it started happening. Checked all injector plugs again an no change to engine noise to it's got to be the coil packs. Reason i'm thinking this is that there are hairline cracks in the coils and when under bonnet temps get too hot, the cracks expand and the spark jumps out. I'm sealing them up now so i'll see if that fixes the problem.

AE86 Spoontah Rookie

AE86 Spoontah

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
double check that coil plugs "click" when you attach it as it's happened before where loose connection causes intermittent misfiring

They all click apart from no.1 but you can't pull no.1 plug off unless you release it how you normally would

Edited by AE86 Spoontah
AE86 Spoontah Rookie

AE86 Spoontah

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sealed up coils with some quick cure high temp sealant but hasn't fixed the problem. It's gotta be electrical is it "pops" alot more now and the pops are louder like there is bulk fuel being ignited.

Could there be a problem with my ignitor?

260tech Proficient

260tech

Posted
Posted
Sealed up coils with some quick cure high temp sealant but hasn't fixed the problem. It's gotta be electrical is it "pops" alot more now and the pops are louder like there is bulk fuel being ignited.

Could there be a problem with my ignitor?

Hi there, dunno what your problem is but seems like there are two which could be related. If you have sealed up your cracked coilpacks & the sealant has had sufficient time to completely cure without fixing problem or as you say making it worse I would be borrowing some known good coilpacks to substitute & check. Also I'm told that the factory Nissan oil pressure senders/gauges on Skylines are notoriously dodgy but you could also have bad electrical earthing causing your combined problem.

My 2c

Cheers GW

AE86 Spoontah Rookie

AE86 Spoontah

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi there, dunno what your problem is but seems like there are two which could be related. If you have sealed up your cracked coilpacks & the sealant has had sufficient time to completely cure without fixing problem or as you say making it worse I would be borrowing some known good coilpacks to substitute & check. Also I'm told that the factory Nissan oil pressure senders/gauges on Skylines are notoriously dodgy but you could also have bad electrical earthing causing your combined problem.

My 2c

Cheers GW

I might have to borrow my mates Splitfires and see if that helps. I heard to that the factory gauges shit at the best of times

too.

AE86 Spoontah Rookie

AE86 Spoontah

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Put mates Splitfire's in and worked for about 10mins and the problem came back again so it's not the coils. Put my standard coils back in, sprayed coil pack module with contact cleaner and kept the vally cover off this time and the problem didn't come back after 10 mins, so i gave it a boot and it did it abit on boost. Maybe the coil pack module is getting too hot? Any one got a CPM i can borrow in Perth to test for 5 mins? Cheers

Edited by AE86 Spoontah
AE86 Spoontah Rookie

AE86 Spoontah

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Found that the problem was the ignitor was getting too much heat soak in the hot weather so i relocated it next to the brake booster and have no problems with misfiring even on a 40 degree day. Crisis averted haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      MAJOR FUEL ISSUES 25det neo r32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The smart thing is to actually locate the pump at the right point down the hanger, so that the strainer can stay sticking out at a right angle, but near the bottom. This is the perpetual hassle with retrofitting any different pump to the factory hanger. Some just go where you need it to, some need fiddling and faffing, and modifying of stuff.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Some updates. After a lot of praying and some inspecting of crank threads, we've found that they were both kinda munted but nothing seemed terminal. The other option was drilling and helicoiling the crank. That is obviously the last option so we decided to at least try to get a OEM GM bolt in to GM Specs. So after honing/linishing the balancer from it's .002" interference fit to a .0018" to .0015" to .0013" it eventually slotted on to the crank. ATI state the interference is nominally 0.0007-0.0009... so it's still snugger than ATI reckon and explains the issues we had to fit the thing to begin with. New GM bolt went in at 37 ft/lb then torqued 140 degrees after which was EXTREMELY   but it tightened up to 140 degrees and it was a lot of force. So all things considered, the balancer is secured to the exact specs that GM want with the OEM Stretch bolt, (that ATI say you can use..) and the balancer itself is seated and snug AF. So WOO. Engine is now back in the car with lots of swearing. Bellhousing bolts done up, driver side manifold is on, AC Compressor and hard lines are back on the car. Next step will be to connect various engine bits/wiring/intake/radiator etc. Then oil and coolant and ... test start it? And of course, looking into this issue... which actually doesn't look so bad - It looks like it can be twisted back into shape with a set of multigrips. Anyone wanna buy my bonnet? Boy it looks good over there and sunk cost sucks.
    • 25debt
      MAJOR FUEL ISSUES 25det neo r32

      By 25debt · Posted

      Also this may be a stupid question, but how would you recommend getting the strainer on a downwards angle ? as they tend to obviously clip to the bottom of the pump which usually sits level 🥴
    • 25debt
      MAJOR FUEL ISSUES 25det neo r32

      By 25debt · Posted

    • MBS206
      Is r33 gtr steering wheel the same as the gtst?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Most of the R33 GTST S1 are all like "airbag? What airbag?!"
×
×
  • Create New...