Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, as the topic says

Has anyone fitted (or knows someone who has) R32 rear brakes to the swing arm type IRS found on the R30/C210 Skyline?

I'm taking total rear brake conversion, calipers, internal handbrake drum, cables.. the whole shebang!

I'm keen for doing this but need some help before I spend money and find out it's a big pitfall :D

Cheers,

Brian.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30498-r32-rear-brakes-onto-r30c210-irs/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've got a r30 sedan, which I'm, about to fit the rear disc's off the hatch to. I've been told that early 90's 300zx calipers (Twin Spot Opposed, I thinks it the same as r32 rear calipers) will attach to the standard caliper bracket and then 89 model 300zx rear discs (4 stud pattern 290mm, not vented) can be used.

BTW. Have you upgraded your fronts and if so what did you use

Measure EVERYTHING you can before you start, and just talk to heap of guys who know their stuff.

My big brakes cost $$$$$ in the end due to crap information from people. :P

I have an R32 GTST equivalent setup now with slotted rotors, good pads and fluid, and its very effective as the big rears give balance to the setup.

  • 2 weeks later...
I've got a r30 sedan, which I'm, about to fit the rear disc's off the hatch to. I've been told that early 90's 300zx calipers (Twin Spot Opposed, I thinks it the same as r32 rear calipers) will attach to the standard caliper bracket and then 89 model 300zx rear discs (4 stud pattern 290mm, not vented) can be used.

BTW. Have you upgraded your fronts and if so what did you use

I got R32 gts-t front brakes (4 spot calipers with 280x30mm rotors)

I've heard about using the z31 rear brakes, but they're somewhat hard to find.. so hence why I'm looking at the r32/z32 rear brakes.. my only concern is the handbrake assembly (hooking up and having work).. otherwise I'd use the z31 gear for sure

Cheers,

Brian.

hey slip??

exactally wot is done to the rear brake set up in your 31??

are you able to get the rear of the car to step out using the handbrake??

Correct me if I'm wrong somebody, but I heard that if you use the drum brake backing plate from the diff of a VN Commodore, you can attach the r32 handbrake drums to it, and fit the twin piston calipers / rotors like you'd put on any set of rear brakes.

Cheers,

Brian.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

I have an HR30 Paul Newman and presently I have DR30 front and rear brakes.

DR fronts are 284 x 22 with single piston calliper and DR rear are 290 x 10 single piston calliper. The rears are identical to Z31 Turbo rears and are simply BOLT ON, after fitting hatch rear trailing arms. ALL THESE BITS CAN BE SOURCED THROUGH SSS Automotive at Girraween NSW (02) 9896 6111. The front strut assemblies about $500.00 pair.

My rears are staying as is, DR30, but my fronts are going to be upgraded after engineering to R33 GTR V Spec, 324 x 30 with 4 spot callipers, reason! have to put a 20mm spacer into your front wheels to clear the 4 spot calliper and any spacer in NSW is illegal. My GTR front conversion is being done by Specialised Clutch & Brake at St Mary's NSW.

When doing this upgrade, you also would be best advised to change the master cylinder. Prior 83, use the TOKIKO 1 inch bore and 83/85 use the 720 ute 15/16 bore. everything else can stay stock.

An upgrade on pad compound is also a very good idea. If going to EBC Green Stuff for example on the front, it is considered a 35% increase in efficiency just by changing the pad compound and use EBC Black on the rear. You will be very impressed with the improvement using these combinations and the good thing is, the DR bits are just BOLT ON.

If sloted rotors are used, that's a further upgrade.

Happy hunting

i've been thinking of something to look into, feel free to put a stop to it with any hints, Ok dr30 front rotors with custom mounting brackets for the r or z 32 front calipers but transfer mr30 or hr30 front rotors and the larger calipers to the rear end, any thoughts!

WHY WOULD YOU BOTHER???????

DR30 Rears are already 290 x 10 and the braking force is more determined by the leverage on the wheel (diameter of rotor).

For a road car, and or part time track car, there must be heat get into the rotors and pads so as for them to work efficiently, therefore the SOLID rears are far better for road conditions.

IF you wish an upgrade, change your pads to EBC Green Stuff on the front and Black Stuff on the rear, you will attain an effective increase in performance by about 35%. If you are going to the track, change the compounds again to Red or Yellow up front and Green on the rear.

WHY YOU WANT TO RE INVENT THE WHEEL?

My HR will have between 300 & 400 HP at the wheels and my rears are stock DR's 290 x 10 with EBC rear pads.

WHY WOULD YOU BOTHER???????

DR30 Rears are already 290 x 10 and the braking force is more determined by the leverage on the wheel (diameter of rotor).

For a road car, and or part time track car, there must be heat get into the rotors and pads so as for them to work efficiently, therefore the SOLID rears are far better for road conditions.

IF you wish an upgrade, change your pads to EBC Green Stuff on the front and Black Stuff on the rear, you will attain an effective increase in performance by about 35%. If you are going to the track, change the compounds again to Red or Yellow up front and Green on the rear.

WHY YOU WANT TO RE INVENT THE WHEEL?  

My HR will have between 300 & 400 HP at the wheels and my rears are stock DR's 290 x 10 with EBC rear pads.

brilliant thats great info, i'm running slotted dba rotors on the front and standard on the rear with bendix comp x pads, no problems stopping, that post i put up was an idea i had but i'll put in the don't bother pile and think up something else!!

brilliant thats great info, i'm running slotted dba rotors on the front and standard on the rear with bendix comp x pads, no problems stopping, that post i put up was an idea i had but i'll put in the don't bother pile and think up something else!!

RSX84,

If your car is a DR30 and standard you have 274 x 22 front brakes, something I would be investigating, for a front upgrade, try Z32 fronts, 280 x 30 with the alloy 4 spot calliper.

The 280 rotor only being 3mm each side bigger, at a guess, you might get away with the calliper mounting to the original mounts. The DR mounts and all current Nissan's past R31 have 100mm calliper mount centres.

May be an interesting experiment if not after HUGE front brakes.

I got R32 gts-t front brakes (4 spot calipers with 280x30mm rotors)

I've heard about using the z31 rear brakes, but they're somewhat hard to find.. so hence why I'm looking at the r32/z32 rear brakes.. my only concern is the handbrake assembly (hooking up and having work).. otherwise I'd use the z31 gear for sure

Cheers,

Brian.

Brian,

Ever considered putting the R30 IRS assembly into your TRX Bluebird?

RSX84,

If your car is a DR30 and standard you have 274 x 22 front brakes, something I would be investigating, for a front upgrade, try Z32 fronts, 280 x 30 with the alloy 4 spot calliper.

The 280 rotor only being 3mm each side bigger, at a guess, you might get away with the calliper mounting to the original mounts. The DR mounts and all current Nissan's past R31 have 100mm calliper mount centres.

May be an interesting experiment if not after HUGE front brakes.

i'm starting to think i have a mr or hr30 made to look like a rsx! the front disks are only 256mm across and theres no powersteering?? all your info has made me think??

no i cannot step the rear out with the handbrake as its a VN commodore handbrake, and therefore sucks. If R32 stuff fitted, i would have used it. 32 GTSt handbrake will lock the rear up nicely. HSV VN rotors on the back too, with 32 gtst callipers. Great braking power with a balanced setup.

Rotor size is not the only issue, using more powerful opposed callipers gives more control, especially when trying to brake on the limit. Performance cars do not use 2-4-6 piston opposed callipers for no reason.

Brian,

Ever considered putting the R30 IRS assembly into your TRX Bluebird?

Way ahead of you ;)

I got some IRS from a p910 import Bluebird (same setup as r30/c210) but it has smaller brakes than the DR30 (a lot smaller, can get actual measurements when I get the car back.. pretty sure same as the 280zx), and I've also managed to chase down an import booster so I can use a s12/13 15/16 Tokico master cyl instead of the silly Australian Girlock one.

So having the braking power of a r32 in a car that's so much lighter is a big appeal, as having brakes to stop with is always good!

I should have my car back this weekend (Friday 6th Feb 2004) with the IRS in, and I can put up some pictures for anybody who'se interested.

Cheers,

Brian.

i'm starting to think i have a mr or hr30 made to look like a rsx! the front disks are only 256mm across and theres no powersteering?? all your info has made me think??

RSX,

Have a look on the firewall and your body/chassis number should read with prefix KMR30 or KHR30, or similar.

Let us know what you have and we can go from there.

Dennis

no i cannot step the rear out with the handbrake as its a VN commodore handbrake, and therefore sucks.  If R32 stuff fitted, i would have used it.  32 GTSt handbrake will lock the rear up nicely.  HSV VN rotors on the back too, with 32 gtst callipers.  Great braking power with a balanced setup.

Rotor size is not the only issue, using more powerful opposed callipers gives more control, especially when trying to brake on the limit.  Performance cars do not use 2-4-6 piston opposed callipers for no reason.

SLIP,

We are talking about cars that finished production in 1985 and the PERFORMANCE version had single piston callipers both front and rear.

As for 2/4/6 piston callipers, I stand by what I say.

For ROAD USE the single piston calliper and DR30 290 x 10 rear brake set up is BEST. And for an EASY upgrade, change to slotted rotors & EBC or similar pad compounds.

Please explain how or why one would go to the trouble & expense of adapting multi piston callipers and vented disc rotors to the rear of an R30 that would spend the majority of it's time cruising at 100 kph or there abouts.

You talk performance cars having multi piston callipers etc, well the majority, probably in excess of 85% of the braking is done by the front wheels, so it would be common sense to improve/adapt different brakes to the front as I have. R33 GTR V Spec 324 x 30 rotors + 4 spot nissan alloy calliper. Rear is standard DR, 290 x 10 rotors etc. With brake bias hardware I can effectively balance the brakes how I please. I think this is a far better option than playing with rears above best available standard, particularly as the standard are so good.

WE ARE NOT TALKING trying to stop from 200 mph plus.

Way ahead of you ;)

I got some IRS from a p910 import Bluebird (same setup as r30/c210) but it has smaller brakes than the DR30 (a lot smaller, can get actual measurements when I get the car back.. pretty sure same as the 280zx), and I've also managed to chase down an import booster so I can use a s12/13 15/16 Tokico master cyl instead of the silly Australian Girlock one.

So having the braking power of a r32 in a car that's so much lighter is a big appeal, as having brakes to stop with is always good!

I should have my car back this weekend (Friday 6th Feb 2004) with the IRS in, and I can put up some pictures for anybody who'se interested.

Cheers,

Brian.

Brian,

Is your master cylinder assembly the same as 83/5 R30's or same as 81/2?

If it is earlier, I have boosters and 1 inch Tokiko master cylinders that you might find interesting.

Send me an email of your m/c and brake lines and I can let you know if comparable. [email protected]

Dennis

Ghostrider - a solid rotor with a single piston calliper is BEST for road use? Please tell me how this setup is superior to a vented rotor with two piston calliper in braking power, control, and heat tolerance. Its lighter, but thats about it.

My car is vastly improved with the new setup, even as a commuter. This is because I have more control on the limit, and a balanced setup. On more than 1 occasion I have pulled up short, whereas with the std brakes there would have been an impact.

Road use...... I have cracked my stock pads and rotors from road use. Depends on what sort of "road use" the car is getting. Again, the solid rotor with single piston calliper is inferior, you dont have as much control when trying to brake hard, and it wont be able to handle as much heat under duress. So now youve got rear brakes fading and doing bugger all.

A single piston with solid rotor is cheaper and easier. If you arent going gung ho, and its really just a commuter then just do as ghostrider says, and use good pads and fluid (and slotted rotors if youre keen).

If you go in deep and hard under brakes, especially on tight roads for extended periods (read: mountains) or you are doing trackwork and your stock setup cannot handle the heat, or give you the power and feel you want, then a bigger rear brake setup is a good idea along with a matching set of fronts.

P.S. With a big front brakes, and small rear brakes - 33 GTR fronts, and stocko solid rears, you are not going to be able to use the fronts to their full potential.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Remove it. Certainly from the hub face. I'm not in love with leaving it on the wheel assembly surface either - but if it is common to do so, then....maybe fair enough. It's not difficult. Just time consuming. For the hub face you just need a large enough block and suitable grades of abrasive paper to get it off flat. The same would be true of the assembly face. Just more time consuming, probably needing a lot more care. It's defo going to be easier just to assemble the wheels as is, seal them up, and check them periodically to see if there's any movement or loosening of the fasteners, than it will be to remove it though.
    • Hello, I got my wheels powder coated and they've powder coated bloody everything the mating surface and hub (even told them not to lol) anyway should I leave it or remove it. (Would be very hard) I've searched a lot and lots of powder coaters don't mask the mating surface but do mask the hub surface. How bad it powder coat on the mating surface or hub? My question is what should I do?
    • Yeah, R34 with RB25DE likely has a 4AX01 box in it, which is a medium duty auto ~ with the RB25DET mill, it would've been fitted with 4AX00 (4AX13) heavy duty build (same case, different internals). An RB25DET will lunch on a medium duty 4R01 auto in pretty short order ...to give you some visual idea of differences between the 'medium' and 'heavy duty' boxes, you only have to look at the 2/4 band for comparison...it's chalk and cheese...(plus bigger high clutch, extra pinion in the planetary sets, higher oil pump output, different bearings, higher TC stall speed )... You can control them with just about any aftermarket TCU for electric-over 4-speed with TC lockup clutch (ie; the GM 4L60E and others)...I have a custom standalone TCU that includes MAP sensor (for turbo applications) along with TPS, RPM, and line pressure monitoring...in other words, I don't use any ECU signals...no real need to.
    • If you want to do the wiring, the GTT engine ecu has the same pinouts extra that the seperate TCM in the NA car has. You can literally grab the wires/pins that lead into the Seperate TCM and wire them into the corresponding pins in the GTT Engine ECU. You could then in theory Nistune it. I realised this when everyone put it in the too hard basket and I actually looked at the f**kin R34 manual. This is after I had previously had a seperate aftermarket TCM controller in my original N/A chassis car and a very built gearbox from a GTT, running a seperate Haltech engine ECU. I ran into this issue when I re-shelled the car into a GTT shell, so my aftermarket TCM was no longer plug and play, because the loom/modules were not present. I was pretty livid when realizing just how simple the original fix actually was. It sat for 3+ years at various workshops trying to find a solution. In practice none of this is a worthwhile idea for a lot of reasons, generally surrounding the shitness of the NA auto, the autos in general that come with skylines, and the NA engine and lack of gains. The gearbox is specced for the 2.5L N/A and barely at that level. If you have to pay anyone any money to do any of this, that is money spent on manualizing the car and it's not even close in terms of a comparison. Learning to drive manual is simpler than going through the pain of dealing with the N/A gearbox and he'll have fun to boot.
×
×
  • Create New...