Jump to content
SAU Community

Jongbloed 18 Inch Track Wheels


handbrake
 Share

Recommended Posts

I am going to order a set of dedicated 18 inch track wheels.

I have been looking at these as an option

http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?sh...mp;hl=jongbloed

the wheels are made by Jongbloed. as these wheels are custom made you can have any width or offset you like.

nice and light, at 19 lbs up front for 9.5 inch wheels and 21 lbs out back for 11 inch

sounds like the best widths will be to suit the michelin pilot cup sport or RE55?

assume these tyres go up to widths of 295 and 285 respectively?

I can get wheel widths up to 9.5 up front and up to 14 in the rear according to the makers (these guys supply to the GOTO fully prepped track car in the states) but was looking to go 9.5 up front and either 10.5 or 11 inch in the rear

Also, if anyone else is interested, PM me and I will see if there is any bargaining to be had (about $3600 US a set or $3200 for a group buy as per thread so not too bad for custom rims) $400 US for delivery, perhaps better if group buy also

0722091812a.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those wheels look great. I think you need to seriously decide which direction you are going with tyres first (if possible).

Regarding widths, 295 RE55's go on a 10" rim fine.

The dunlop and michelin slicks are a bit wider again (five or ten mm) and still work well on a 10" rim.

9.5" fronts and 11" rears probably give you the widest range of potential options though.

can you get a picture of the caliper clearance on those rims? might be tough given the wheel design.

the caliper clearance on the te37's and the rotas is 1mm to 3mm, fwiw. It can be a problem if you pick up rocks etc. at the track

also, any idea on price landed? i assume 10% import duty and 10% GST?

$4000US will equate to about $5300AU landed, after FX conversion and taxes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

question: is there any benifit track wise having wider wheels in the rear then the front??? wouldnt it be better to have the same width all around?

just a matter of what you can fit under the front fenders, 9.5 inch up front is about the most without aftermarket fenders. I am investigating the PWJDM front fenders but not sure on various aspects of the fit. these would however allow for 11 inch all 'round

Link to comment
Share on other sites

regarding the wider rubber, i am no expert but i think the answer is "it depends"

on a stocker powered R35 the traction control system is calibrated quite well (for stock power) if you were to put on a 295 RE55 all round (so wider up front) it will help dial out some of the "natural" understeer this car has. it works very well and literally transforms the car (minimised understeer and no oversteer). However on cars with increased power (even a tune-only +60rwkw for example) you will start to lose traction & induce oversteer (with say 295's) the traction control system doesnt deal with it (even in 'R' mode) and it will ultimately pull power and you will lose lap time. Time to turn VDC off and drive, or get bigger/better rubber. So in a tuned car perhaps even wider rubber on the rear will help some. However you need to be careful on your tyre / wheel selection, for example the 888's with their softer sidewall just don't work IMO, the car will "walk" (ditto with a few others, for example the Dunlop slick i found woeful). In my experience and observation the RE55 SR2 or Michelin 270/68/18 slicks work best on this car thus far. However i have not tried the R6 Hoosier. Putting a tyre that is too wide for the rim will have the same effect as running a soft sidewall tyre too, the thing will move around and cost you lap time.

Edited by LSX-438
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dunc,

have sent off some questions including some of your points to Ryan at Jongbloed.

Also geting the PWJDM guys to send me some pics of the front fender wheel well as discussed. they 'assure' me their design fits up to the plastic guards in the well.

Mark

Those wheels look great. I think you need to seriously decide which direction you are going with tyres first (if possible).

Regarding widths, 295 RE55's go on a 10" rim fine.

The dunlop and michelin slicks are a bit wider again (five or ten mm) and still work well on a 10" rim.

9.5" fronts and 11" rears probably give you the widest range of potential options though.

can you get a picture of the caliper clearance on those rims? might be tough given the wheel design.

the caliper clearance on the te37's and the rotas is 1mm to 3mm, fwiw. It can be a problem if you pick up rocks etc. at the track

also, any idea on price landed? i assume 10% import duty and 10% GST?

$4000US will equate to about $5300AU landed, after FX conversion and taxes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dunc,

have sent off some questions including some of your points to Ryan at Jongbloed.

Also geting the PWJDM guys to send me some pics of the front fender wheel well as discussed. they 'assure' me their design fits up to the plastic guards in the well.

Mark

i pulled out the wheel wells myself last week (pulled the whole front off the car to fit the carbon intakes) and to be frank i dont see how the stocker wheel wells could possibly fit on a wider front quarter panels. it physically attaches to the guard lip and then to the body of the car itself (towards the firewall/engine) so how could it possibly fit? Maybe their carbon fenders have an elongated interior gaurd lip tp make it all fit ok.That's the only way it could work. Mabe you can get a photo of the underside?

Edited by LSX-438
Link to comment
Share on other sites

my question is what kind of a name is jongbloed!!?

they look nice but as LSX said check the calliper clearance as with a big flat centre like that can cause problems.

they also end up being pretty pricey. for much less money than that you can get a set of brand new TE37s in suitable sizes which may not look all that fancy, but have pretty good calliper clearance, are very strong, are fairly light and are just all round a good wheel. :domokun:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i pulled out the wheel wells myself last week (pulled the whole front off the car to fit the carbon intakes) and to be frank i dont see how the stocker wheel wells could possibly fit on a wider front quarter panels. it physically attaches to the guard lip and then to the body of the car itself (towards the firewall/engine) so how could it possibly fit? Maybe their carbon fenders have an elongated interior gaurd lip tp make it all fit ok.That's the only way it could work. Mabe you can get a photo of the underside?

as suspected, the guy on NAGTROC (djreversal) has a fabricated inner wheel well solution, there is no piece to match up to the gaurd on the PWJDM fender.

Actually I am sorry that I was wrong in that you will not be able to retain

the factory fender lining under the wheel well. Actually one other customer

here in the US made some modifications to his fender lining so that he can

retain it, he is on NAGTROC and his username is djreversal if you want to

ask him how he did it.

Jongblowed! yes it is a weird arse name. they pretty much only do custom racing wheels.

Just something different to the ubiquitous TE37's.

Having said that Baron, who can get me a cheap set of TE37's and what are the sizes offsets people would recommend? I will look at all options. what does a set of new 18 TE37 set you back?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

Im currently looking for a set of new track wheels too for my Elfin MS8 Clubman. Unfortunately I fooked my Simmons Altas and cant get them repaired/replaced. So ive been searching for some decent custom track wheels, as I need custom offsets front and rear. Oh and they need to look good too.

For what its worth Im currently looking at the forgelines competitions series(http://www.forgeline.com/products/competition-series/). They can seemingly custom them up to whatever you need. Although cost could become and issue once imported. $5k+

And yes I know this is my first post ever, Ive been a lurker, but i have no afficiliation with any wheel manufacturers - just putting a option out there as Im dealing with them at the moment and they seem keen to accomodate my techincal whims.

Anyhoo, didnt mean to divert the thread

Cheers

Joshua.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

Im currently looking for a set of new track wheels too for my Elfin MS8 Clubman. Unfortunately I fooked my Simmons Altas and cant get them repaired/replaced. So ive been searching for some decent custom track wheels, as I need custom offsets front and rear. Oh and they need to look good too.

For what its worth Im currently looking at the forgelines competitions series(http://www.forgeline.com/products/competition-series/). They can seemingly custom them up to whatever you need. Although cost could become and issue once imported. $5k+

And yes I know this is my first post ever, Ive been a lurker, but i have no afficiliation with any wheel manufacturers - just putting a option out there as Im dealing with them at the moment and they seem keen to accomodate my techincal whims.

Anyhoo, didnt mean to divert the thread

Cheers

Joshua.

Joshua,

i think i know of someone who is doing repair work on the old simmons wheels. If that is of any help please send me a PM.

cheers mate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as suspected, the guy on NAGTROC (djreversal) has a fabricated inner wheel well solution, there is no piece to match up to the gaurd on the PWJDM fender.

Jongblowed! yes it is a weird arse name. they pretty much only do custom racing wheels.

Just something different to the ubiquitous TE37's.

Having said that Baron, who can get me a cheap set of TE37's and what are the sizes offsets people would recommend? I will look at all options. what does a set of new 18 TE37 set you back?

last time I bought a set of brand new TE37s in 18 I think they were around $3500 which I think is pretty fair considering the stupid money people ask for them used sometimes. plus by buying new you can chose pretty much any colour under the sun. size and offset, i'll check on. we were using some 19s on russ's 35 last time I drove it at oran park and they were a good size, but obviously far bigger rubber choice in 18s.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
I am going to order a set of dedicated 18 inch track wheels.

I have been looking at these as an option

http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?sh...mp;hl=jongbloed

the wheels are made by Jongbloed. as these wheels are custom made you can have any width or offset you like.

nice and light, at 19 lbs up front for 9.5 inch wheels and 21 lbs out back for 11 inch

sounds like the best widths will be to suit the michelin pilot cup sport or RE55?

assume these tyres go up to widths of 295 and 285 respectively?

I can get wheel widths up to 9.5 up front and up to 14 in the rear according to the makers (these guys supply to the GOTO fully prepped track car in the states) but was looking to go 9.5 up front and either 10.5 or 11 inch in the rear they are the deal

Also, if anyone else is interested, PM me and I will see if there is any bargaining to be had (about $3600 US a set or $3200 for a group buy as per thread so not too bad for custom rims) $400 US for delivery, perhaps better if group buy also

0722091812a.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Joshua,

i think i know of someone who is doing repair work on the old simmons wheels. If that is of any help please send me a PM.

cheers mate.

if your in sydney

Retro Wheels

02 95703033

if your in melbourne

see my sig

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...