Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I purchased a Trust Return Flow FMIC off a member on this forum and was about to start fitting it up this weekend. Just started reading through the thread in the FAQ section and it mentions cutting the reo and bumper bar (although it is a different style of return flow intercooler).

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...Fm-t288799.html

Also the one in the thread has a slightly larger cooler: 620 x 266 x 76mm

Where as this one is (Trust FMIC Return Flow): 520mm x 250mm x 70mm

Also it doesnt have the pipe running along the bottom of the cooler like the one in the thread does.

Has anyone fitted a Trust FMIC Return Flow? Did you have to cut anything?

Any help much appreciated as it will save my many hours of work as I really dont want to cut anything. Thanks.

Edited by Harey

i think your confused - the point of the trust return flow, as the name implies, is return flow

that is, it re-uses the stock intercooler piping, so you dont have to cut anything

i think your confused - the point of the trust return flow, as the name implies, is return flow

that is, it re-uses the stock intercooler piping, so you dont have to cut anything

I am not talking about the cutting for new intercooler piping, I am talking about cutting just to fit the physical cooler in. If you look at the thread in the FAQ, he has a return flow intercooler and yet still has to cut both the reo and the bumper to fit it (although it is a different size cooler and different way of running the pipes back to the standard intercooler piping).

Edited by Harey

If it's a return flow cooler it MUST have a (not permanently attached) pipe running along the bottom/top of the cooler core, hence the term return flow. This doesn't mean you don't have to cut anything to fit the intercooler core though...just that you don't have to cut holes for the piping because the supplied pipes will connect up to the existing side-mount plumbing. It's the intercooler core that gets in the way of the REO and in 90% of cases I've heard of people cutting their REO bar and front bar. It doesn't need a great deal of cutting.

If the person you bought it off sold you it without the bottom pipe, I'm assuming here, but maybe they damaged the bottom pipe hence they got rid of the intercooler? Or they lost the part? Shouldn't be too hard to locate another one or get one made up.

Most likely you will have to trim the reo a little and some of the bar cover, the bar cover trimming should be at the back so will not be visible unless you want to cut the centre section out for more flow to the core.

If you do not have the pipe running along the bottom of the core then i doubt it is return flow.

If it's a return flow cooler it MUST have a (not permanently attached) pipe running along the bottom/top of the cooler core, hence the term return flow. This doesn't mean you don't have to cut anything to fit the intercooler core though...just that you don't have to cut holes for the piping because the supplied pipes will connect up to the existing side-mount plumbing. It's the intercooler core that gets in the way of the REO and in 90% of cases I've heard of people cutting their REO bar and front bar. It doesn't need a great deal of cutting.

If the person you bought it off sold you it without the bottom pipe, I'm assuming here, but maybe they damaged the bottom pipe hence they got rid of the intercooler? Or they lost the part? Shouldn't be too hard to locate another one or get one made up.

This design does not have a pipe along the bottom:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...ust+return+flow

I am wondering if anyone has fitted this particular type of cooler, but its not sounding good. I dont have any equipment to cut it even if I decided to.

Ok that's a turn flow cooler, not return flow. Difference being what Brett pointed out. I still think you'll need to cut the reo just to fit the core, but you won't know until you test fit. Solution: pull off your front bar and test fit to judge how much you'll need to cut (if anything), you've got nothing to lose and it doesn't take that long. The cutting and permanent mounting of the cooler is the time consuming part.

I fitted a Trust Turn flow intercooler to my Stagea and definitely needed to trim the Reo bar maybe a 1-2cm to prevent it hitting the top of the intercooler. I imagine this is typical with all of the Skylines / Stageas as there is not enough room behind the Reo bar otherwise. I don't think there would be any way to avoid doing this unless you are running a seriously thin intercooler. Even then you would probably need to remove the Fan that sits behind the intercooler as this protudes slightly.

post-39581-1264142009_thumb.jpg

Hi,

I purchased a Trust Return Flow FMIC off a member on this forum and was about to start fitting it up this weekend. Just started reading through the thread in the FAQ section and it mentions cutting the reo and bumper bar (although it is a different style of return flow intercooler).

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...Fm-t288799.html

Also the one in the thread has a slightly larger cooler: 620 x 266 x 76mm

Where as this one is (Trust FMIC Return Flow): 520mm x 250mm x 70mm

Also it doesnt have the pipe running along the bottom of the cooler like the one in the thread does.

Has anyone fitted a Trust FMIC Return Flow? Did you have to cut anything?

Any help much appreciated as it will save my many hours of work as I really dont want to cut anything. Thanks.

G`day ,I fitted front mount to my Stagea Blitz`s type,now you will need to mod Reo but don`t cut it OUT just Mark & slot REO THEN BEND IT UP so it will fit no need to CUT IT OUT ,& if you want to remove it just fold it back & get it rewelded all sweet you will not know,Good luck Chuckie.

Bending it = just as defectable and probably more noticeable than cutting it...I'd be doing a neato cut job of it and spraypainting it for a stock appearance :D

Ok that's a turn flow cooler, not return flow. Difference being what Brett pointed out. I still think you'll need to cut the reo just to fit the core, but you won't know until you test fit. Solution: pull off your front bar and test fit to judge how much you'll need to cut (if anything), you've got nothing to lose and it doesn't take that long. The cutting and permanent mounting of the cooler is the time consuming part.

Ah ok subtle but important difference. That makes sense now.

I fitted a Trust Turn flow intercooler to my Stagea and definitely needed to trim the Reo bar maybe a 1-2cm to prevent it hitting the top of the intercooler. I imagine this is typical with all of the Skylines / Stageas as there is not enough room behind the Reo bar otherwise. I don't think there would be any way to avoid doing this unless you are running a seriously thin intercooler. Even then you would probably need to remove the Fan that sits behind the intercooler as this protudes slightly.

If you are talking about the cooler in the photo, that would be a 'return' flow intercooler :D

Thanks for the info! I am really fussy and dont have to install the cooler, so I will be putting it up for sale.

i know someone with one of the trust turn flows. it was on the car when they bought it, but whoever installed it cut the whole midsection of the reo

away. though not needed i would think.

i've got a jjp return flow, and yes you need to trim or bend the reo so the core fits in there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
×
×
  • Create New...