Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all.

just purchased a gt3076r .82

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...roducts_id=1023

now i need to mount my external wastegate but i only have the stock rb25 exhaust manifold..

the manifold has been ported to flow better.

so my Question is where do i put the external wastegate??

i have herd of ppl putting adator plates between turbo and manifold but where do i find a Vband adaptor?

i have also herd ppl weld them to the stock manifold?

or is it best to get a manifold with wastegate spot?

i dont wanna spend $1300 on a 6boost either (i know there awsome)

cheers all..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305087-rb25-gt3076r/
Share on other sites

oh.. so get a hole made in the exhaust housing of the turbo?

does this mean disassebling the turbo?

so cut a hole weld a vband adaptor on and then add wastegate?

i just dont wanna mess around with the turbo..

hmm..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305087-rb25-gt3076r/#findComment-5049888
Share on other sites

oh.. so get a hole made in the exhaust housing of the turbo?

does this mean disassebling the turbo?

so cut a hole weld a vband adaptor on and then add wastegate?

i just dont wanna mess around with the turbo..

hmm..

Weld a small outcropping off the turbine housing, it has to be done in the right spot/angle though i believe as there is a wrong and a right way.

Although, that turbo will do over 300rwkw, and it's known that the stock manifold is very much a problem so honestly you would be better off saving and putting on a decent manifold.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305087-rb25-gt3076r/#findComment-5049908
Share on other sites

I have a .82 rear housing for sale with the pipe welded to the housing for a wastegate. Done by Kyle from 6BOOST.

After $400 for it.

The housing is also ceramic-coated.

post-32255-1264196476_thumb.jpg

This was high mounted so you might need to cut the pipe and rotate it to clear the strut tower, might not though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305087-rb25-gt3076r/#findComment-5050163
Share on other sites

I'm not sure but isnt the turbine housing cast iron as well as the stock manifold which might crack if not welded properly???

If so why not just weld in a pipe off the manifold as close as possible to the flange instead of messing with the housing.

A stock manifold is far cheaper and easier to get than a turbine housing!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305087-rb25-gt3076r/#findComment-5050181
Share on other sites

thanks dave but im gonna get someone to weld onto mine.

will have a crack with the manifold adaptor but dont think it will clear the strut tower.

ill just weld an adaptor to the top of the exhaust manifold.. and save up for a 6boost..

just a meantime thing just to get car back on the road.

id rather not touch the turbo for re-sale purposes but might just have to..

Edited by rad32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305087-rb25-gt3076r/#findComment-5050182
Share on other sites

theres nothing really wrong with doing the adaptor with gate pipe route. I've done a few cars like that and they have made decent power (around the 300 mark) with stock exhaust manifolds and low mount still. while it might not be optimal for the last poofteenth of power. it does work and allows decent packaging in the engine bay.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305087-rb25-gt3076r/#findComment-5050962
Share on other sites

theres nothing really wrong with doing the adaptor with gate pipe route. I've done a few cars like that and they have made decent power (around the 300 mark) with stock exhaust manifolds and low mount still. while it might not be optimal for the last poofteenth of power. it does work and allows decent packaging in the engine bay.

These adaptors you've used are custom designs???

All i have seen being sold have threaded holes for use with studs on both ends so a nut would not work to tighten it up to the manifold even if the threads were drilled out on one side to accommodate the existing studs on the manifold, especially the side with the port for the wg there is simply no room for a nut

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ad...Ma-t299964.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305087-rb25-gt3076r/#findComment-5051426
Share on other sites

ok so i sorted my issue and bought a hks cast manifold.. now the standard 35mm wastegate wont be suitable so i been looking at 50mm..

came across this.. http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1

would this be suitable to bolt onto the hks wastegate port?

i dot have $800 to spend on a tial or turbosmart atm..

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305087-rb25-gt3076r/#findComment-5058417
Share on other sites

What makes you say the 35mm w/g wont be suitable, the turbo that came with that kit isnt much smaller than what you have. Whats the minimum boost you want to run. My 50mm on HKS manifold would happily run down to 10 psi with a bigger turbo than a 3076

Edited by Adriano
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305087-rb25-gt3076r/#findComment-5058578
Share on other sites

Read the FI Guide - has a link detailing wastegate sizing, how to calculate rather than "someone told me".

Although you want to get as close to 19psi as you possibly can, less work the boost controller has to do the better

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305087-rb25-gt3076r/#findComment-5058622
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
×
×
  • Create New...