Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello resident suspension experts, I have decided to turn my GTR into a time-attack machine for a big race event coming up (modified tuner shootout). it will go back to street car duty afterwards, but i am working hard to make the car competitive for the event. We got 2nd place the last 2 years in street subarus and we dont want to give that up. A street subaru wont get us 2nd this year - there will be a dedicated track porsche 911 twin turbo awd as well as the sierra sierra cosworth evo so we have to be on top of our game to do well.

The chassis and engine are VERY solid and have plenty of time with no problems. Specs are:

full roll cage, proper bracing in the right spots

r34 gtr brembos, pfc 01 pads, brake ducting

R32GTR front suspension, caster changed to 7degrees through custom upper mounts. Stock swaybar, Stock Upper Arms, Stock lower arms, Stock tierods, Quaife Front LSD, urethane swaybar bushings

R33GTR rear suspension, full adjustable links, R32GTR stock swaybar, nismo LSD

Tires are Hoosier A6 (Autocross compound for time attack) and BFG R1 (enduro + lapping) 275/35 on a 18x10.5

Torque Split is running fixed with 40-55-60psi in the transfer case (ATTESSA eliminated) depending on preference

built motor, single twinscroll turbo, 680hp on E85 (helps response), good oiling system and cooling

I am getting a set of triple adjustable motons, and they will be used only for the track (will switch out to my koni 28 series for the street). Curious on what you guys have used and i may also end up picking up some ohlins since i was offered a set at too good a price to pass up.

Please advise on swaybar, roll center adjuster height, tie rod changes, spring rates, alignment and anything else pertinent. We are taking care of aero and improving the cooling right now, will jump on susp middle of next week, need to make some decisions. thanks for reading

Edited by Full-Race Geoff
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305269-time-attack-suspension-setup/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Got a bit of work to do in a short period of time then....

Torque Split is running fixed with 40-55-60psi in the transfer case (ATTESSA eliminated) - this will make things interesting. Can I ask why you chose to do it that way?

Cusco make good, (albeit fixed) sway bars. I would recommend one for the rear, not so much for the front where softer offerings may be better..

Spring rates are dependent on where you are running (ie what track) but also (importantly) on the Attessa set up. With a fixed set up you could arguably afford to increase the rear spring rate relative to the front to help remove understeer.

first recommendation is brakes. you will need something at least 355mm front rotor with some bigger callipers (bigger pad area) than the stock 34 GTR brembos if you want to compete with cars like you mentioned.

Hey Geoff, try posting this up in the Motorsport section mate, may get some responses there from people who actively race their GT-R's.

Thanks dane, just posted up and added some pics http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...tr-t306963.html

first recommendation is brakes. you will need something at least 355mm front rotor with some bigger callipers (bigger pad area) than the stock 34 GTR brembos if you want to compete with cars like you mentioned.

thanks for the advice. unfortuantely the money is blown on the aero package and motons. the r34 brembos will have to do, we got a SUPER aggressive pad that should shred rotors so well see what it can do

From the looks of things you are running a full GTR driveline and engine combination in a S chasis car, this is fairly custom set up and there would have to be some differences from a normal GTR or S chasis car so doubt you can't use the exact same suggestions for these cars.

What is the results on the corner weight scales?

Edited by boxheadmr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back in January, I noticed my car felt noticeably weak. I had the injectors cleaned, which seemed to solve the problem -- until now. Recently, the car suddenly lost power again while driving. Suspecting the injectors, I brought it to the mechanic. He recommended replacing them entirely, saying the current ones were getting unreliable and fiddly to work with. I could not find a direct replacement for my current injectors. The closest match I found were 440cc injectors. This led me to look into the possibility of upgrading -- and of course, that would mean remapping the ECU. From my research I found: The OEM Part numbers are 16600-72L20 and 16600-72L21 Both the RB20DE and RB20DET use the same 270cc injectors. There are much better options out there over the old OEM injectors. Nistune could be a viable tuning option. While the RB20DE isn’t explicitly listed on their site, the ECU is essentially the same as the GTS-T version - just with a different map. The ECU code on mine is listed as supported. One concern is finding a tuner who works with Nistune. Aftermarket ECU like Haltech and Link, but this would be the most expensive choice (and possibly overkill for a mostly stock RB20DE) I admit that I am very new to the tuning scene and would appreciate any insight or recommendations regarding this.   These are some SAU links where I got some of my information from for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380324-rb20de-injectors/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477396-factory-270cc-injectors/  
    • The inspectors are not forensic by any means but if you forge your documents and/or badgings on vehicle parts and are found out, the consequences are just far bigger than if you just run illegal parts. And their job quite literally is to cross reference what parts you got installed and what your papers say you got. Something as silly as your suspension being 1mm too low will fail you. Nonetheless I asked if someone knew the damn pipe and I certainly did not ask for smartassery or underhanded comments, no idea why you need to be told this. Great way to waste both our time.
    • As useful as you explaining what forgery is... But then again, I wasn't aware your inspectors were also forensic experts and inspect nameplates on each component to confirm everything is original. They must inspect roughly 3 cars a year at that rate. You're right though, my comment doesn't help you in anyway, so I'll go talk to my wall now. Cheers. 
    • Say that to the guy that is going to fail your inspection or tow your car for illegal exhaust modifications. If you have anything else useful to say, please go tell your wall.
    • You must be fun at parties. 
×
×
  • Create New...