Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as ive posted so many topics in the last few days some of u may know i jus got my R34 converted to a manual since i got it back nothing but litle problems..

my newest problem is the check engine light will come on and the car's exhaus note will sound exactly like a wrx (like the putting and stuff like that) and the car starts to shake in low revs feels as if its gonne stall on me... annnd i can hav my foot flat to floor in any gear and it will jus go nowhere like i mean struggling to hit 50klms in built up areas...

it slips in and out of this mode but the engine light never goes off but sometimes it will jus randomly go back to normal sounding (the exhaust note) and suddenly my power will be all back.. then the exhaust will start putting and sounding like a classic rex and it will run like crap again :D

could it be because i still have the auto ecu running and never hooked up the manual ecu?? or does it just need a tune or in anyones opinion/experience is it something else??

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305465-car-running-like-sheeet/
Share on other sites

I have had a similar problem with my car.

It is either one of 2 things.

If the car drives along fine and then jerks along suddenly and refuses to rev over 2000~rpm, your air flow meter (AFM) is playing up. Its probably best to find someone with the same AFM and test it in your car

If the car has a misfire depending on load/rpm, it is your coilpacks breaking down, replace them with splitfires and you will never have that issue again.

From my experience there is no difference between auto/manual ecu, The A/T light on your dash will be flashing because the shift ECU is not receiving a signal. Just remove the cluster and pull the light out if it annoys you.

cause its not just like doing it underload or anything it will just do it randomly and it wont jerk the only thing that happens is (if anyone has had xperience with varex exhausts) suddenly the note of the exhaust will change and tahts when i kno its gone into the "mode" so to speak.. and then i can rev out every gear to the max and it will struggle to get up to 50k's even.. jus goes nowhere..

but i noticed this arvo i tested a theory that it happens after the car has been going for say 10-15 mins so after it heats up and when u stop start alot.. at traffic lights etc..

and how come they just went without warning? like i got my car back from the shop after it being converted to a manual and it jus happened.. i never had any lights on or any problems with it before i took it to the shops?? do they just do that randomly go is it just conincidence that my first drive of her after getting it back from the shops has nothing to do with it they just went randomly?

sorry about all the questions.. this is my first skyline im going from commodores to skylines so i kno absolutley nothing :D

good work on going from commonwhores 2 skylines mate :D lol

the problem more than likely isnt there when the car is cold yeh??? thats because the coil packs will get tiny lil hairline fractures in them... n as the car warms up the heat makes those cracks get bigger till the spark n all that missfires causing the car 2 sound like shit... if ur car has got bout 60 - 70 thousand k on it n its still got stock coils in it then they will be gone by now... engine light will go on and off n will get more frequent as the problem persists

not sure if the workshop touched them??? maybe dropped one by accident??? hints a crack in one

a temporary thing u can do is also tape them up tightly with good quality electrial tape

ahh yeah i got my car with 77XXX klms now has 92XXX klms so i spose they need changing... would this also be causing the car to feel as if its going to stall and shake about while im sitting in neutral/stopped??

and yeah it doesnt do it when its cold.. its after it heats up a bit.. thanks

id say coils for sure, sounds like all the same symptoms mine had before i changed them, all 6 of mine had blown, big black burn marks in the clear plastic resin casing

being a manual now, maybe your driving in higher rev ranges for longer putting more heat and stress on the coils which might have put them over the edge and it seems also very common from what ive read on here that once one coil goes, the rest go like dominos

ahh okay i see makes sense..

would this also cause my car to sometimes be hard to start? like i'd go to start it and it would jus kick over then clonk out then i'd hav to start it again and it would get really low revs and almost stall then the revs will all of a sudden pick up and she'll be fine??

ahh okay i see makes sense..

would this also cause my car to sometimes be hard to start? like i'd go to start it and it would jus kick over then clonk out then i'd hav to start it again and it would get really low revs and almost stall then the revs will all of a sudden pick up and she'll be fine??

deffinately, mines was often hard to start when id try pulling over to restart the car and clear the ECU of the error code, felt like it was flooding itself

i replaced mine with the just jap ones (the red ones if its a NEO motor like mine) they are even made in the same building in tiawan as split fires - according to the distributors, so far she goes great

okay cool thanks everyone... has really put alot of stress off my mind haha

how much is too much for a set of splitfires? i see them on ebay for $595 (+postage obviously) then i ask my mechanic who specializes in imports and skylines to be exact and he said around $700? are the ones off ebay the real deal??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...