Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i have a r32 gtr and for some reason it keeps putting it self into rwd at anytime. the light will come on in the dash and stay on till completely turn it off and then most of the time the light justs comes striaght back on.

Does anyone what is f**ked or is it the cars way of saying do a skid ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305474-r32-gtr-4wd/
Share on other sites

Could be a number of things.

The reservoir in the RHR quarter, is it full?

What size tyres are you running front and rear?

Have you got a mix of new and old tyres?

Could be a a sensor gone.

Have you got a copy of the workshop manual? there are some good trouble shooting steps in there.

Feel free to arrange a time to head over to Burnie if you want someone to have a look for you.

Always happy to meet another GTR owner and help out if possible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305474-r32-gtr-4wd/#findComment-5054761
Share on other sites

The tyres are 235/45r17 all round and are the same the car was running for about 4 months befor (stephen corrected me if Im wrong)

My first thought was wheel speed sensor as well but its not throwing the abs light

as for reservoir Ill lol if thats all it is due to the facted that he should be smart enough to have topped that up when he bleed it. but it might not be bleed properly

Edited by lawler
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305474-r32-gtr-4wd/#findComment-5055090
Share on other sites

attessa is very sensitive to earth, and voltage. My car pulled the abs wires into the compresser, which kept blowing the a/c fuse, and also made the 4wd fail. I've heard of people having earthing problems that cause it to fail too.

also when it fails, look at the attessa ecu under the rear parsel shelf, and count the number of led flashes.

Edited by sav man
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305474-r32-gtr-4wd/#findComment-5055356
Share on other sites

When was it bled and does this coincide with the warning light issue???

Its easy enough to bleed, if you know what your doing.

If you dont, then its real easy to get it all wrong as well.

Same way its been bleed the same the other 3 times the gearbox has been out. tho the car has had the whole motor out and has only just got going again. from what he was telling me to day its intermittent and if you stop and turn the car off its fine for a bit then it will throw the light and be in rwd again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305474-r32-gtr-4wd/#findComment-5055372
Share on other sites

thanks for the help. think i have fixed it now. i bleed it again and cleaned all the abs sensors and been driving around all day and it hasn't done it again plus the 4wd seems to kick in quicker

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305474-r32-gtr-4wd/#findComment-5055391
Share on other sites

Could be a number of things.

The reservoir in the RHR quarter, is it full?

What size tyres are you running front and rear?

Have you got a mix of new and old tyres?

Could be a a sensor gone.

Have you got a copy of the workshop manual? there are some good trouble shooting steps in there.

Feel free to arrange a time to head over to Burnie if you want someone to have a look for you.

Always happy to meet another GTR owner and help out if possible.

Edited by 32gtrsteve
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305474-r32-gtr-4wd/#findComment-5059170
Share on other sites

Could be a number of things.

The reservoir in the RHR quarter, is it full?

What size tyres are you running front and rear?

Have you got a mix of new and old tyres?

Could be a a sensor gone.

Have you got a copy of the workshop manual? there are some good trouble shooting steps in there.

Feel free to arrange a time to head over to Burnie if you want someone to have a look for you.

Always happy to meet another GTR owner and help out if possible.

started doing it again. are you busy next week or sometime to have a look at it cause i dont konw what to try

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305474-r32-gtr-4wd/#findComment-5059177
Share on other sites

Should be free most night next week after about 6pm.

Dont think I have anything planned at this stage for Sunday either... :s

Not sure on that one though.

Shoot us through a PM with your mobile number and we will tee something up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305474-r32-gtr-4wd/#findComment-5060051
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
×
×
  • Create New...