Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

first post here on sau although i've been a long time reader and learner. I have purchaced an r32 gtr 94' not v-spec. 77,xxx k's on the clock. its a beautiful machine there are just a few things that are bothering me. so if you have any past experiences or opinions i would love some help.

the 3 major problems are:

1st- i am getting error code 16 on my altessa ets ( lateral g sensor ) i pulled up the glove box, had a look at the unit its self the indicator is not displaying red so i am assuming the unit its self is fine. what else can it be. tried checking the harness terminals for 2.5v but multimeter is displaying "open line" what could this mean?

2nd - at times when shifting down gears the clutch will engage very early coming from 3rd to 2nd and make a slight grinding sound, i thought it could possibly be the throwout bearing but i am no mechanic and my opinion really counts for shit due to my ill understanding of how the clutch and transfer case work

3rd - the tachmeter will bounce all over the place sometimes displaying off the chart readings whilst maintaining normal revs.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

I know everyone is going to tell me to take it to a mechanic, which brings me to my next question. I live on the northside of brisbane and I'm looking for a reputable mechanic, not some junkie from east coast that will promise the world and deliver nothing. is there any body who specialises in 32gtr's? travel around bris is not an issue.

please if you need pics or anything please ask i would be more than happy to supply anything you need to make an assessment.

thanks sau.

Lewis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305750-r32-gtr-diagnosis/
Share on other sites

I've had the tacho problem. Apparently it's very common. I replaced it with a used one with lower KM's hehe cost $40 to install.

hey all,

first post here on sau although i've been a long time reader and learner. I have purchaced an r32 gtr 94' not v-spec. 77,xxx k's on the clock. its a beautiful machine there are just a few things that are bothering me. so if you have any past experiences or opinions i would love some help.

the 3 major problems are:

1st- i am getting error code 16 on my altessa ets ( lateral g sensor ) i pulled up the glove box, had a look at the unit its self the indicator is not displaying red so i am assuming the unit its self is fine. what else can it be. tried checking the harness terminals for 2.5v but multimeter is displaying "open line" what could this mean?

2nd - at times when shifting down gears the clutch will engage very early coming from 3rd to 2nd and make a slight grinding sound, i thought it could possibly be the throwout bearing but i am no mechanic and my opinion really counts for shit due to my ill understanding of how the clutch and transfer case work

3rd - the tachmeter will bounce all over the place sometimes displaying off the chart readings whilst maintaining normal revs.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

I know everyone is going to tell me to take it to a mechanic, which brings me to my next question. I live on the northside of brisbane and I'm looking for a reputable mechanic, not some junkie from east coast that will promise the world and deliver nothing. is there any body who specialises in 32gtr's? travel around bris is not an issue.

please if you need pics or anything please ask i would be more than happy to supply anything you need to make an assessment.

thanks sau.

Lewis

The ATTESSA problem will be related to the sensor "or its circuit". If the sensor appears to be intact, it would then be that the power supply to the sensor has been broken. Have you drill any holes, screwed any screws, recently?

The clutch problem might just be that you are a bit quick with the clutch release (pedal up) process. Try slowing it down a bit.

The ATTESSA problem will be related to the sensor "or its circuit". If the sensor appears to be intact, it would then be that the power supply to the sensor has been broken. Have you drill any holes, screwed any screws, recently?

I have not drilled any holes personally, however there has been a turbo timer fitted. I believe the power to my clock has been used, could this in any way effect the g sensor or the attessa system. The problem only appears to occour when the car hasn't been driven for a while and cold. how can I locate the power supply and test it?

finally, is there a way i can repair my tacho without replacing the whole cluster?

thankyou to everyone who is helping out..

lewis

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
×
×
  • Create New...