Jump to content
SAU Community

Whats Best Factory Ecu Or A Plug In Ecu For A R32gtr?


Recommended Posts

Hi all just wondering if i can stay with standard ecu for the amount of mods i'm wanting to do as i'm only looking at say, 3" exhaust, and a bit more boost maybe a little larger huffers although if i can run low 12's high 11's with standard huffers happy to keep'em standard ... i'm not sure at this stage if it is worth keeping the motec m48 for the GTR?? as a lot of guys seem to use power fc's? any help would be much appreciated.

1:So what is the best ecu option for my amount of mods? bearing in mind if standard huffers can stay even better.

2:whats the mines ecu or is it a piggy back unit? if so how good for the level i want.

3:will have a HD clutch in the five speed thats it in the gearbox area.

4:i want it to atleast drive it min 4 days a week the odd dragstrip fun and track days now and then.

5: more interested in killer responce with ok top end, as i saw what the mines R34 was capable of on a more responsive setup.

regards wayne

You can run 11.5 with a R32 GTR & stock turbos.

However, don't think for a second that it will do it pass after pass without breaking a turbo :)

Nistune of PowerFC are the two choices IMO. Both basically keep everything factory (cold start, idle return, A/C load) and then you just tune up the map/fuel etc etc.

For what you are looking at a power fc would be fine (tried and proven). Don't know anything about nistune but people are rating those as well as vipec.

The motec is fantastic but just to wire up will probably cost nearly as much as power fc.

I would think just selling the M48 should still get you some good money. People who are building competitive tarmac rally or race cars etc would be interested with launch control antilag options etc.

I once bought an M48 new but the cost to install and tune was also expensive. Sold it and bought power fc, which made life very simple.

Hi all just wondering if i can stay with standard ecu for the amount of mods i'm wanting to do as i'm only looking at say, 3" exhaust, and a bit more boost maybe a little larger huffers although if i can run low 12's high 11's with standard huffers happy to keep'em standard ... i'm not sure at this stage if it is worth keeping the motec m48 for the GTR?? as a lot of guys seem to use power fc's? any help would be much appreciated.

1:So what is the best ecu option for my amount of mods? bearing in mind if standard huffers can stay even better.

2:whats the mines ecu or is it a piggy back unit? if so how good for the level i want.

3:will have a HD clutch in the five speed thats it in the gearbox area.

4:i want it to atleast drive it min 4 days a week the odd dragstrip fun and track days now and then.

5: more interested in killer responce with ok top end, as i saw what the mines R34 was capable of on a more responsive setup.

regards wayne

I have a full plug in loom set up for a Motec M800, I'm not sure if it plugs into a M48, I could find out, it has boost control, Map sensor, AFM deletes etc, flick the switches for 4 different tune set ups, MSG or PM if interested. I think the Power FC would be a better choice for you.

Nistune = board soldered stock ECU to allow software to reprogram it.

Adv - Cheap (around 200 dollars to do), easy, legal (it isn't legal but i'm not sure how any cop could ever tell it had been done easily), retain all factory engine safety and cold start functions.

Nistune = board soldered stock ECU to allow software to reprogram it.

Adv - Cheap (around 200 dollars to do), easy, legal (it isn't legal but i'm not sure how any cop could ever tell it had been done easily), retain all factory engine safety and cold start functions.

Hi sounds like a good option so were in melb is there someone who is good at fitting and tuning the nistune?

cheers

Wrath9GTR, I have the exact same inquiry as you do :)

I also wanted a more responsive rev and considered a few alternatives. I'm going to do a major service soon so will replace all the usual parts.

I would consider the nistune if it does the exact same thing as the PowerFC. Only reason I would do the ECU upgrade is to handle the additional power of the turboes that I'm looking to replace as well. Nothing wrong with them, just getting a bigger (and newer) one would give me less worries about blowing up. Can keep the stocks for spares. My car is a daily so I want reliability and the ability to not leak like a toilet (ie. same or better fuel economy).

As for tuning I heard a lot about Racepace.

Hi sounds like a good option so were in melb is there someone who is good at fitting and tuning the nistune?

cheers

Status Tuning in south dandenong supplies, fits and tunes nistunes (he did mine)

http://www.statustuning.com/

Drop by or give him a call.

More information about nistune can be found here

http://nistune.com/

Main benefits of nistune is that there is a knock safety map. So if ecu detects knock, it will switch to the safe map. Whereas a powerfc will just flash a little light and keep knocking O_o

the knock safety map is basically a idiot mode / brain dead feature

it's designed to be tripped when you put penis fuel in the tank and run the car on the normal tune

its hardly a full proof be-all engine protection system and i wouldnt rely on it to save my engine

the car should be tuned correctly (pfc or nistune) and if you notice constant knocking (PFC via engine check light)

then you have either

penis fuel

too much timing

intake temp too high

boost too high

so you change one of those and knocking goes away

only an idiot would ignore it and keep trashing the engine

Status Tuning in south dandenong supplies, fits and tunes nistunes (he did mine)

http://www.statustuning.com/

Drop by or give him a call.

More information about nistune can be found here

http://nistune.com/

Main benefits of nistune is that there is a knock safety map. So if ecu detects knock, it will switch to the safe map. Whereas a powerfc will just flash a little light and keep knocking O_o

If you're on the other side of town go see Sam at Dr Drift www.drdrift.com.au or 0425 818 755

Knows it inside out.

Edited by Bozz
the knock safety map is basically a idiot mode / brain dead feature

it's designed to be tripped when you put penis fuel in the tank and run the car on the normal tune

its hardly a full proof be-all engine protection system and i wouldnt rely on it to save my engine

the car should be tuned correctly (pfc or nistune) and if you notice constant knocking (PFC via engine check light)

then you have either

penis fuel

too much timing

intake temp too high

boost too high

so you change one of those and knocking goes away

only an idiot would ignore it and keep trashing the engine

true, but if you have a boost spike, heat soak, bad batch of fuel or something fails in the fuel delivery to create knock it will switch to safemode before you can react to a flashing light. Its not a full proof protection system but its a step above a flashing light. You can also adjust how sensitive it is to triggering safemap so its quite useful.after all car companies wouldnt waste money on it if it didnt help

it was designed in the original OEM setup to protect against retards putting penis fuel in the tank

its not designed to back off the timing because its tuned too aggressively

Give Trent (checkered tuning) or Sam (dr drift) a call and discuss the finer points with them. AFAIK they will happily tune either and will know the specifics for your car that may push you toward one option or the other.

Status Tuning in south dandenong supplies, fits and tunes nistunes (he did mine)

http://www.statustuning.com/

Drop by or give him a call.

More information about nistune can be found here

http://nistune.com/

Main benefits of nistune is that there is a knock safety map. So if ecu detects knock, it will switch to the safe map. Whereas a powerfc will just flash a little light and keep knocking O_o

Thnx rekin great info mate cheers.

Wrath9GTR, I have the exact same inquiry as you do :D

I also wanted a more responsive rev and considered a few alternatives. I'm going to do a major service soon so will replace all the usual parts.

I would consider the nistune if it does the exact same thing as the PowerFC. Only reason I would do the ECU upgrade is to handle the additional power of the turboes that I'm looking to replace as well. Nothing wrong with them, just getting a bigger (and newer) one would give me less worries about blowing up. Can keep the stocks for spares. My car is a daily so I want reliability and the ability to not leak like a toilet (ie. same or better fuel economy).

As for tuning I heard a lot about Racepace.

Hi rock i here ya mate... yeah i'm after a good daily and try and keep the factory ecu so hope the nistune can delliver.

good point about keeping the standard huffers as spares mate.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I like mine. Much better than stock. Like i said before the reverse/parking cameras look even worse than normal, still useable. When you buy one make sure it's the latest version. Heaps of cheap ones that run the old hardware and software. Got mine from AliExpress. Mine is quick no lag, boots up 1-2 sec. Menu is fast. Netflix is fine and so is YouTube. Android Auto is random taking 3sec to 15sec. Most of the time it's quick. Very rare it doesn't connect. But that could be a phone thing.   Now I think they use a Pixel 3XL to run this whole thing which i guess is fine, but the problem is that some apps will not work on old hardware like Disney Plus  Maybe Prime Video too 🤔. they will not update. Iv'e tried getting the APK Disney + but i still couldn't get it working. I have a Data sim installed so i have internet all the time. You can't Hotspot off your phone and connect Android Auto at the same time. Not that you need too, if you want you can hotspot off your phone and run any internet map app (google maps) and you can run the Spotify app on it's own (the app runs better than android auto) You can still access the INFINITI intouch system for all the o.g stuff    P.S i got new non Polarization Sunglasses too 😎 
    • I also don't mean to rain on your parade. But with a 5-10k budget for road only? I'd want to check confirmation that everything IS working correctly and I'm with @GTSBoy for a plan of action here. I'd be checking subframes, bushes, exhaust hangers, interior bits and generally QOL things and CONFIRMING they are working right before thinking about motor. You can get 250KW+ on stock RB26 hardware by simply removing the built in restrictors and tuning the stock ECU. If you want purity that's as far to take it, which I would be worried to do and won't think the budget would allow for when earnestly checking for 30+ year old car stuff.
    • I specifically said buy new performance car because of the use case here (i.e, no track use and fun livable everything/do it all easily if not especially amazing as a drivers car). Tracking an 80K Skyline and an 80K M2 makes the BMW the obviously more risky purchase WHEN something goes wrong you suddenly can't easily fix it with hand tools and readily available parts that you may have a community of people you know available, or years of your own knowledge on the platform to apply. There's reasons you see Hondas and Vettes and RB's and Miatas and such at tracks, you can easily hand-tool repair 99.9% of it in a shed, usually with the tools and the skillset of the owner to apply to it. An i30N is not going to beat a R chassis unless it's got massive problems either. The old cars can, and still do work great. The problem is - and always has been - social media would have you believe it's simple and easy to achieve the results you see online.  People want their car to be like "one of those cool JDM cars" which is the default image people have when they think of  "cool JDM cars" You are paying 25 years of catchup R&D to achieve. Or the knowledge somebody else has to do it for you, which is big dollar restomod stuff.  The bar has been moved and every R chassis that people see/like/enjoy has 25 years of R&D thrown at it, or is owned by someone who did all that work and has that knowledge over the past 25 years. All the survivors have been progressively resto-modded the entire time. OR you slowly bring it back to how it was stock. Which is also prohibitively expensive, done for the love of it. This is what the JDM community is now. This is fine, but "Where do I start?" is either: 1) Don't 2) Take your own slow journey but you cannot compare your progress with others who have had 25 years of R&D and experience building their own cars unless you pay for it.
    • Yep, with the crazy inflation of the value of our cars these past couple of years this became a problem for me too... My solution is to transition to bikes. Everything feels so cheap compared to tracking the skyline lol
    • So, I've been a little busy on this car. I replaced the bonnet struts which is always satisfying but very confusing that nobody else on the planet seems to do this. Its just my routine first thing I do on any car I buy. The boot struts for both the tailgate and the separately opening glass window was a bastard. And, I found a fair bit of rust in the strut cavity. I filled it with rust converter and cleaned up as much of the dirt as I could. There was so much dirt. One piece of the trim was barely hanging on and so I've left it off. I'll try to get a replacement. You can see how disgusting and dirty it all was in this thread; I had to remove the little clips that hold the struts on the ball. The ones I took off had no clips and it was impossible to get them on with them in place. Fingers crossed they stay put. So, I turned my attention to the headlights, they were in a bad way and likely would stop rego. I took the headlights out and found the adjusters were all just loose. So, I fixed those and unclipped the lenses to clean them up. Couldn't believe how easy it was to take all this apart compared to the E90.   I also cleaned up the stockies which was awesome, these are super cool with lug nut covers. They're in good nic but the tyres are shot. I was going to use these for rego but in the end got a fresh pair of rubber for the 17's on the front of the car instead. The front bar of this car is from a late(r) model one. I don't think it's quite LCI but who knows. I'll need to find out. Anyway, the bar was missing the fog lights and the wiring and plugs were for the original ones so I got new plugs and some cheap fogs. I wasn't sure if missing original equipment would hamper my blue slip attempts. Had a couple of these little fellas helping out. But not Ben who got stuck behind the pool heater .... How embarressment.  I ordered new speed sensors for all corners because I knew one was out. I just got cheapies and will replace them with Bosch items when I can find Bosch items. Again, this was just for rego. Alas, it seems the blue speed sensors are not the same as the grey ones. Back they went and replacements ordered. In the end, with my new scan tool, it was just rear left that was shot. Replaced it and cleared the codes. All good now. Lastly, my aux (thermo) fan is being a bit odd. Its powering up at strange times and NOT powering up when I think it should (100C). While this can be caused by a few things, the most likely (for me) is the ambient temp sensor. Given mine reads -40.0C regardless of the temp, I figured it would be good to replace it. In the end, the sensor wiring was abysmal with (terrible) attempts made by somebody to fix it.   I fixed this all up but the sensor is only attached using pins into the wires. The plug is not there. Despite trying and trying to connect it securely it wouldn't work so a replacement sensor and plug is on the way. Oh, I also ordered a replacement piece of trim for the part missing here at the bottom. Ordered from Latvia for $70 delivered. I took a bit of a leap of faith because I didn't have the exact part number and, as usual, there were eleventy billion pieces of trim that looked to fit. Nailed it. Well, its not totally perfect but I think its more a 28 y/o car problem than a trim problem. And, as of today ..... I have bought the workshop manuals 2nd hand off a guy in tassie. 1000+ pages of E39 goodness, hopefully it helps me with the fan. I also have a new temp switch on the way incase its the problem. Stoked.
×
×
  • Create New...