Jump to content
SAU Community

  

8 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I have a dilemma. I've been reading about cat-back for the last 2 weeks. I have to swap my RS*R Exmagt2 for either:

1. a 3' non straight pipe cat-back ( I.E: Magnaflow XL turbo) + Swap the downpipe for an Aftermarket.

http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd...ain&id=8264

xl02.jpg

Or

2. The OEM cat-back which is 2.5' but straight pipe + adding a Y pipe with a electric open-valve ( cutout) just before the cat. But I'm afraid it will be way too loud to run it on the street and won't use it enought to make it worth the hassle.

006-2.jpg

EchappementOEMGTR2.jpg

3. Varex cat-back with the butterfly valve but is there any backpressure problem with this exhaust because if you close the valve it will only have a 1 inch hole?

VarexDiagram.png

Which one should be less restrictive?? a 3 inch 3 chamber system or a 2.5' straight free-flowing..

For the moments, I'm fairly stock ( approx. 340whp) but I plan on upgrading the turbo( -5) and go to the 450ish whp marks and I don't want to loose like 50 HP because of those exhausts.

Edited by cobrAA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305899-which-cat-back-is-less-restrictive/
Share on other sites

  r33cruiser said:
waits for nismoid's normal exhaust answer :P

''you can have a quiet exhaust which IS fairly well flowing"

:teehee: Nah i've got a better one! :P

450rwhp - you have the wrong wrong wrong turbo choice. The choice you want is the Garrett -9s!!!!!

Not really on topic, but needs to be said as far too many people are poorly informed about turbo selection.

Varex - Crap. They sound dreadful. I've not heard one car fitted that sounds any good. Must be the materials used, they just give off a woeful exhaust note.

OEM - Crap... OEM is like the pinnacle of restriction. You can't hope to make 330rwkw with a 2.5" exhaust.

Magnaflow - NFI, but just looking at the design i cannot see how that's going to flow at all well.

Why don't you just build a proper 3" straight through system?? It will 100% be under 90dB if done right.

Hell even off th shelf jap systems are under 90dB and you can get them 2nd hand for $600-$800 worst case.

Ideally you want a 3.5" system for the power goal, but you will "get away" with a 3" if you must, without question, be legal.

3.5" is a bit harder to get to legal without some love :bunny:

  R31Nismoid said:
:P Nah i've got a better one! :thumbsup:

450rwhp - you have the wrong wrong wrong turbo choice. The choice you want is the Garrett -9s!!!!!

Not really on topic, but needs to be said as far too many people are poorly informed about turbo selection.

Varex - Crap. They sound dreadful. I've not heard one car fitted that sounds any good. Must be the materials used, they just give off a woeful exhaust note.

OEM - Crap... OEM is like the pinnacle of restriction. You can't hope to make 330rwkw with a 2.5" exhaust.

Magnaflow - NFI, but just looking at the design i cannot see how that's going to flow at all well.

Why don't you just build a proper 3" straight through system?? It will 100% be under 90dB if done right.

Hell even off th shelf jap systems are under 90dB and you can get them 2nd hand for $600-$800 worst case.

Ideally you want a 3.5" system for the power goal, but you will "get away" with a 3" if you must, without question, be legal.

3.5" is a bit harder to get to legal without some love :P

The problem is to be legal I have to have a non-straight through system( excepting the OEM) or else I will get a exhaust ticket and will have to go to court to fight it( something I'm freakin tired to do)

I read an article in HPI where they tested an OEM catback against after market on an R32 GTR with mild mods. Had 3" from turbos to the cat back.

In the article they CLAIMED they made 2kw more with the OEM.

Edited by Cosa
  R31Nismoid said:
Varex - Crap. They sound dreadful. I've not heard one car fitted that sounds any good. Must be the materials used, they just give off a woeful exhaust note.

Not entirely true. The rear mufflers/cannons might not sound the best, but i use one of their universal ones underneath the car to keep the car quite when needed (99% of the time its opened) and you would never pick something wasn't right on the car when it is opened. When it is shut its just quite as all hell. Im getting a 3" straight pipe to bolt on and off to replace the varex when needed due to the Varex weighing half a million kg's and sitting quite low.

  PM-R33 said:
Not entirely true. The rear mufflers/cannons might not sound the best, but i use one of their universal ones underneath the car to keep the car quite when needed (99% of the time its opened) and you would never pick something wasn't right on the car when it is opened. When it is shut its just quite as all hell. Im getting a 3" straight pipe to bolt on and off to replace the varex when needed due to the Varex weighing half a million kg's and sitting quite low.

Yeah, my valve would be open 99% of the time. the 1% will be when I see a police. It is that heavy?

Do you have a sound clip of that varex :worship: ?

All those catbacks look shit to be honest.

Get something fabricated, will probably end up coming out on top in both price and performance.

If you're paranoid about the loudness of your car get some mid mufflers / resonator or just baffle the shit out of a box and call it your exhaust.

Edited by Parag0n

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're now in the unrestricted member group so upload away! 
    • TBH, it sounds like the threads on the bolt are fubar in a specific section. Most likely as you've been working it back and forth it has torn threads out, as you loosen the bolt, this section enters the nut, now you're spinning a round shaft inside the nut, there's no threads here.   Use something similar to a claw on a hammer that will fit either side of the bolt head and try to apply downward force while also undoing it. The idea is to attempt to catch a thread, or just rip the f**ker out. Caution on ripping out, as it could bend/maime/mangle what the captive nut attaches to. If the captive nut is actually okay, you could do the dirty part of cutting the head off the bolt, then cut a slit in the end of the thread that's now exposed and then screw it up and into the area the captive nut is until it falls out the other side. However, this does risk the remainder of the bolt rusting over time and damaging near the captive nut and also making it rust. However, so can cutting pieces of panel work out to access this area if you don't reseal it properly.
    • Well, every piece of information on that part when you track it back to Nitto says it's for a KIT of theirs. It is also designed thicker to be stronger. And they speak about a specific harmonic balancer bolt they supply for the whole setup.
    • Techniques for removing stuck bolts are: hitting the bolt head with a hammer, heating the bolt to red hot then letting it cool and working it back and forth like you are already doing. AFAIK the idea is to try to crush whatever material is stuck between the threads (and heat also melts locktite but that's almost certainly not relevant in this case).
    • Yuh, I think it works with the Nitto gear only. I presume that you're not also using the Nitto gear? Watch the video. Compare the interface between the Nitto gear and washer (on the gear side) vs the stocker and decide if you think the Nitto gear is different from stock there.
×
×
  • Create New...