Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 weeks later...
  • Replies 1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

You're all homo and stuff.

Yeah I remember that car. Two tone gold and silver R32 GTS4 with an RB26 conversion. Havn't seen it for atleast two years now.

got painted, motor went bang a couple times, got fixed and as far as I last heard, was never driven because it popped something every time it moved more than 10 feet.

someone should come and take the front bar off my gtr (and leave it at my house.....) so I can work out size for oil cooler

Hey guys just joined, Bought my first skyline so will be around on here a fair bit for tips and help.... She is a bit sick and in need of a bit of love but hopefully have her running alright in the next few months. Any one know the best places to get work done let me know, am going to be taking her into extreme MS today a mate has told me to go in there

Hey Phil, I need to ask from your vast knowledge about the HEL products if you have any photos of the sandwhich plate that came with your oil cooler kit

I've been shafted big time by them as it looks like I've just been sent a generic sandwhich plate, and theres a nice big dint (nearly a hole) in my oil cooler because they didnt put in packing in the box and all the brackets rolled around and F#@#ed $hit up. And better still they don't want to replace it insisting that it shouldn't leak and will be fine

The sandwhich plate I have has no thermostat as far as I can see and that was the big selling point of the HEL kit, and it is definently advertised as having one.

Looking through your old thread now but thought you might have some good photos anyway

So thats my rant, hows Townsville treating everyone :)

haha

EDIT: Heres the damage that they think "Should be O.K". Regardless of that its pretty poor that they wont replace it with this type of damage on it brand new:

Resampled_2012-11-05_18-28-32_765.jpg

Edited by 89CAL

^^depends what your after and how deep your pockets are.

frsport i get a few things through or if your after stuff from japan go through jessestreeter.com

goodluck finding a decent workshop in townsville

cal- i'd be asking for a refund or another core. have you tested it with water to if it leaks?

Edited by robbo_rb180

^^depends what your after and how deep your pockets are.

frsport i get a few things through or if your after stuff from japan go through jessestreeter.com

goodluck finding a decent workshop in townsville

cal- i'd be asking for a refund or another core. have you tested it with water to if it leaks?

They are going to replace it and supply a thermostatic sandwich plate. So getting somewhere at least

Just thought I'd let you guys know that we're having dinners each Wednesday for the next few weeks to discuss what people want the club to be for next year.

I know it's a hike for you guys, but you're most welcome to come and have a chat about what you guys want in a car club. I'll post up next weeks Dinner details once we have it sorted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
    • Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.
×
×
  • Create New...