Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Meh its got the classic rb25 misfire anything over 10psi.

Ive checked the gaps, and they are all 0.6-0.7mm

Checked the coils, and I cant seem to see any cracks?

Ill just save up for the splitfires.

Doesn't necessarily have to have cracks on the outside of the coil boots. They usually burnout on the inside due to age.

Another thing to check would be taking the boots off from the coilpack (just pull them off) and making sure all the springs are still inside. They can break and fall out with age and therefore there will be a gap between the top of the plug and the coil causing the current to have to jump. You will see burns on the coilpack if this has happened.

Another thing is to run BCPR plugs instead of the more common BKR plugs since they are a bit taller and compress the spring more giving a better connection.

Also saw PM-R33 car out at autobarn.

Saw when you were being interviewed.

Seem to know your shit eh?

Yeah I'm the manager there.

Interviewed?

Yeah I'm the manager there.

Interviewed?

May just have heard wrong, sorry.

Im very new to the whole nissan thing. Owned it less than 2 weeks.

I dont know why there is soo much trouble with coil packs, if it is the coil packs.

My last car, a corolla, had nearly 200,000km on the engine and it ran boost levels from 8 psi to 25 psi for 2 years, and its still running.

And that is all standard ignition, with standard copper plugs gapped to 1.1mm.

Thanks for the suggestions too, i will definitely have a look at the boot and springs.

The car has been tuned to run 12 psi, which it ran great on the drive back home. Then it slowly started to misfire a week later. Bastard.

Runs perfectly fine on 10psi though.

*Anyone in townsville have cheap splitfires though...*

Edited by privatealpha

Noob, bring the thing over at some stage, and I'll go over it for you. If I need, I'll ring Phil and a couple others to get clarification..........

Different car, different motors, cant compare really.

I'm sure we can get you a set of coil packs for the motor if it's that.

Edited by Force Fed

Another thing is to run BCPR plugs instead of the more common BKR plugs since they are a bit taller and compress the spring more giving a better connection.

A MEN PHIL..... so sick of dumb dream boats buying BKR plugs. BCPR ARE THE JAP STANDARD read the f**kin book

also here me hatch

post-50094-0-04802900-1315354975_thumb.jpg

@tobu, u dont need a z32 afm for nistune, incase u wanted to get ur cash back, and ur going to paul for the tune? i would ask around a little more...

Really, I thought the z32 afm would help with the tune? Because the one I bought ended up being a knock off anyway. As for the tune... Paul's had the car since Tuesday. I'm going to head down there this morning and see what's happening.

Just an update: Please let me know if this doesn't belong here...

Paul @ xtreme wasn't able to get any of his laptops to talk to my ECU through my USB consult cable so he wasn't able to do a tune but he did fix up a few air leaks and pointed out a crack in my radiator that means it'll need to be replaced...

After about ten minutes of mucking around I managed to get my laptop talking to it and I was able to mess around with the settings (lol 2000RPM rev limiter) so now I'm looking for someone who will be a good fit to do the tune, replace the radiator and plump the BOV in (It's blowing to atmo and causing the car to stall when you let off).

Any suggestions?

Ive got my 32 carbon fibre grill for sale if any one wants it. $150 ono and its yours. Lost motiviation to fit it so its just sitting around and i want to get my bike back on the road asap. Pm me or 0419742800

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
    • so I need a new speedo cable 
    • Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit.  When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?
    • Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
×
×
  • Create New...