Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yea that's the problem with these generic kits. You have to go back to supplier to get the replacement stuff.. Hence I normally try and stay away, go for OEM or go for something like brembos.

Try and get back to who you bought them off, and find out if they use the same shape/size as a particular vehicle. I know some AP stuff are taken from specific cars.

yeah pads are an easy replacement - anything to suit the AP racing 6 spot calipers will fit (very common pad size). I bought replacement pads from just jap last time I needed them.

I would also contact Just Jap if I needed replacement discs....but I have not got through a set yet

out of interest, say justjap discontinued these, are there an OEM pad and rotor that match these?

i was under the impression the G4s matched some form of ford pads but have no idea about the rotors. am keen to know as ive heard these are actually an excellent kit for the price.

well like I said pad are available from most reputable brake pad makers for the AP6 piston calipers and they fit straight in. I've always used the just jap/chinese generic pads even for race use with no issues so I would stick with them as long as they are available ($500 for race pads is a good price.....things like pagid can go over $1k a set for these calipers)

for discs you are stuck with the chinese factory....so D2/G4/Ksport retailers. If they disappear you would need new discs/hats/caliper adapters. Having said that I've bought 3 sets of these brakes for different cars and none have shown significant wear or cracks on the discs yet

ive had mine on for about 2months and have considerable hot spots on them already just waiting for the shudder to start then they hit the bin. i was also told ap do rotors also but they'll be expensive as shit and the only ones ive found are a different size only 343mm

can anyone guide me on where i can get replacement rotors and pads for the 8 pistons 356mm g4 kits. that arnt ridiculously priced

We've got QFM A1RM (Ferodo DS2500 equivalent) pads on the shelf to suit the G4/D2 8 piston fronts. $179 for the axle set. If you want a dedicated track pad we can do the QFM Comp 9 for $229 for the axle set, or something from the Project Mu range...

  • 3 months later...

ksport are the same as g4 are the same as d2. the ksport just aren't quite such a lurid colour :(

I'm still running these, on the original (ex-targa) discs from 4 years ago, still going great.

Was looking at this stuff recently. The new K-Sport caliper looks different to the old G4, but the rotors appear to still be the same. Shame that Just Jap dont stock the G4 anymore, in th elast few months they sold them they went for a flat black and were a more attractive kit for the use of the low key colour

yeah sorry I should clarify - the ksport caliper is slightly different because it has different sized leading and trailing pistons, same total piston area. But the pads, mounting brackets, rotors, hats and brake lines are all the same. So just consider them "interchangeable"

Well Tracker, you and Scotsman have proven to me that the G4 were the buys of the century for the money.

If the K-sport are their equal then that is encouraging. I have some of the Endless 6 pots knock offs by KTS which i or a friend will be trying soon. There seems to be far more options for budget brake upgrades these days then there was back around 2005. Back then it was used GTR Brembos or 4.5k for APs/Brembos etc

The real test is finding a good economical rotor in the size you are after.

I still am a brand whore, so much that I just bought another set of big 4 pots, simply because its a brand I have not used before and they may be a better solution then the Alcons :(

yeah sorry I should clarify - the ksport caliper is slightly different because it has different sized leading and trailing pistons, same total piston area. But the pads, mounting brackets, rotors, hats and brake lines are all the same. So just consider them "interchangeable"

Duncan, do you know the cost of the replacement rotor? From just jap?

I called K-Sport a while ago and asked about replacement rotors for there kits (330mm kit).

It was just for the rotor. Would have to re-use the hat.

Front pair where $800. This was around 6 months ago though. Not sure if it still stands.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
    • I'm a bit stuck with this one fellas, I recently decided to undertake a turbo conversion on my GTS-4, ended up pulling the motor to replace all the seals and do an mls head gasket and arp head studs while I was at it. Everything has gone according to plan, no oil or coolant leaks, compression checked out, and decided to give it a test before I book it in for a tune As it stands right now, the turbo only has oil lines plumbed so that I don't put boost into my untuned engine, and I'm using the factory GTS-T crossover pipe with a maf and poddy as a temporary intake. The car starts with relative ease and idles amazingly, however as the title suggests it really doesn't want to rev up, runs very smooth but almost feels choked out and unresponsive to the throttle, almost like it's running lean or something? I've triple checked my vacuum lines and timing with a timing light, injectors haven't been touched as of yet to avoid flooding the engine and worked perfectly beforehand, new plugs and coilpacks, I've even unbolted the cat just to see if it spontaneously collapsed, no dice The car currently has a nistune r32 gtst ecu installed so I have no way to check for fault codes. At this point I'm a bit stumped. Is this normal behaviour for a car with a turbo bolted onto the exhaust going nowhere? I'd imagine the turbo wouldn't cause this much restriction in the exhaust without the boost going through the intake. Any ideas? If necessary I can link a video of how it responds to full throttle while in neutral.  
    • Insert tab A into slot B?
    • Instructions seem simple enough to understand.....
×
×
  • Create New...