My Wmi Install

[tridentt150v]

'98 Gtst, 3076 WG, HKS Ext wastegate, tomei cams, fmic, pfc etc etc etc

I used to have bad knock values when boosting or loading up up a hill = around 90 to 120. I had the tune softened from 290rwkw back to around 275, I also had more fuel added and my economy went from over 500km to a tank to more like 400-450. This lowered my knock values below 5,000rpm and the car was driveable, but the knock was still there from 4500 up and at 7,000 was way too high all over again [around 100 ish].

Rather than open the motor or lower the power any more, I opted for a Snow Performance Stage III water meth injection kit. This kit works off both injector duty cycle and boost.

Using this kit even in a not yet tuned for WMI state, my knock levels in 2nd gear fanging it have dropped from 100 ish to less than 30 [on a hot day as well] and the power and delivery is probably better than before as well. Once tuned I think the rwkw will rise [more timing], the fuel economy will return [because it can be leaned off = richness doesn't have to compensate for the knock etc] and my knock levels will be still sub 60.

My system is a boot mounted pump and reservoir with a solenoid valve for anti drain mounted at the motor near the plenum. The boot tray or mount is a black powder coated alloy two piece unit with a drip tray under the reservoir just in case of spills etc. The motor mounts on the base tray which bolts to the boot floor and then the reservoir part bolts over this. The whole thing is designed to be modular so that you can bolt or unbolt individual components using a plug and play method. The indicator plugs at the reservoir are double ended so I can plug or unplug from both sides of the 'firewall'.

The dash mounted display/control module is mounted in the ash tray hole [see pics] along with an on off switch and level indicator light, fit is snug. I cut the wires at the back of the module short and inserted a gang plug and a brass gas fitting [for the boost line] so that the dash can be taken out without having to rip out the wiring loom, so once you disconnect at the back of the display/control module, you can take the dash out and can even leave the actual unit and indicator light plus on off switch in place still mounted in the gearlever cover like the cigarette lighter if needed.

Anyway I've added some pics so you should be able to get the idea from them.

[PM-R33]

Looks very nice man. Let us know how the tune goes.

[wolverine]

It will be good to see the finished result.

[skylinecouple]

Exactly what I want very soon for my 3071 .82 garrett setup. Looks good and neat install. If you are experiencing unusual knock that can't be explained try changing to new coils.

[Dale FZ1]

Pump/reservoir unit looks neat. How big is the bottle?

I'd like to see some shots in the engine bay too - I take it there is a single nozzle somewhere near the throttle body?

Good to see the results are immediately obvious too.

[tridentt150v]

Exactly what I want very soon for my 3071 .82 garrett setup. Looks good and neat install. If you are experiencing unusual knock that can't be explained try changing to new coils.

I have splitfires, bottle is three litres, jet is 80mm before TB, my engine bay is not a prettied up one, functional and tidy, but no colours or such.[ maybe one day?]

[tridentt150v]

The engine bay showing solenoid and nozzle location.

still haven't tuned it yet [slack I know].

[Rekin]

Looking good, my water-meth system is on the way from the states. One interesting video i found regarding sloshing. http://howertonengineering.com/Tech%20Info...Eng_Baffles.MOV

With the baffle design, you need to use a vertical mounted level sensor as the regular one would get in the way.

I may be purchasing this tank here, just waiting on more information from the manufacturer.

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/2-5-gallo...d-tank-346.html

[zebra]

i like it...very tidy and factory looking

[tridentt150v]

tank looks good, the SP tank has no baffles, but the pick up is low down and I'd doubt you would slop it dry unless you have less than a cupfull in it. The pickup is actually approx 25mm lower than the bottom of the tank. Mu level indicator switch is at around 1/4 of a tank so plenty of warning.

But I can see benefit in a baffled tank for sure.

[zebra]

how long does 3L last?

[tridentt150v]

I haven't gone through my first tank yet, but it depends on how often you boost it and give some stick. If you don't boost it hard and your just cruising then you will never use any. I've got this set up for:

8psi begin, all in by 14psi

60% injector duty cycle begin all in by 80%

so if it reaches either 8psi or 60% IDC it will begin to inject WM, I'll have to play with these and fine tune them on the dyno and as I live with it, but I don't think I'll be too far off the mark.

I have to admit I haven't driven the car much just lately though, I've been working away from home and have a biggish 29 x 11 shed I'm trying to build on the weekends before winter sets in, so bloody busy for now.

[zebra]

cool.

will be interesting to see how long it will last on a track.

[tridentt150v]

you won't find out from me, its a road car, it I had $$$ for track time I'd only use it to buy more mods anyway [spool rods and RB30 pistons next up]. I'm pretty confident I'll get 1-2000 km out of a tank, on highway you only need it when you overtake or going up a long steep hill, so a minute or two here and there is all. But I'll carry a reserve with me and see how it goes for a while.

[zebra]

ok fair enough then

[Simon-S14]

whats the total cost of the kit? looks pretty decently put together so i'll be looking forward to tune results also

[tridentt150v]

Around the $1K mark for everything, give or take. Plus I had the boot mount bracket made and powdercoated in that. I can hunt up reciepts and give you an actual price if you want. And before everyone says I was robbed, I got the level indicator, solenoid and extra tubing in that - plus mine is the Stage 3 kit.

[Simon-S14]

i had a feeling it would be around that... it isnt bad value at all when you consider those pumps are around 300 alone. all the fittings and solenoid not to metntion the electronics side of things start to add up quickly.

im keen on a similar set up but its for a track car and not sure if a 3L tank would cut it.

[Rekin]

i had a feeling it would be around that... it isnt bad value at all when you consider those pumps are around 300 alone. all the fittings and solenoid not to metntion the electronics side of things start to add up quickly.

im keen on a similar set up but its for a track car and not sure if a 3L tank would cut it.

you can get any size tank you want. The one i linked above is 2.5gallons, which is around 10litres.

Sti owners use their washer tank as shown here. They eliminate surge issues by running a lower tank which is always full.

[mattis96]

Hey mate are you just running normal water or are you using window washer fluid or what ever it is you use?