M35 Ecu Fault Code 0235 - Probably To Do With Attesa

[GlennM35]

Hey guys!

Ever since getting the car back on the road with the new turbo, I've been getting the 4WD light come on temperamentally. It usually happens if I have to do some maneuvering before getting up to speed, like reversing out of carparks and such. I can usually get it to go off and stay off by turning the car off while I'm at lights just before they go green - getting the car or engine up to speed quickly seems to nullify it.

Anyway, I thought I'd check to see if I'd get an ECU fault code even though the MIL light has not come on, and the 4WD light doesn't persist after turning the car off like the MIL light does. Much to my suprise it spat out 0235. I've searched right through a G35 service manual and googled for ages but cannot find anything that says what it is, although the suspicion is that it's to do with the ATTESA system.

One thing I have been noticing recently with the car is that when I pull up to a stop, just as the car is almost about to stop I hear and feel a creaking sort of noise from somewhere underneath. Then when I take off again there's another creak.

Andy suggested to me last weekend that it maybe my mechanic hit the ATTESA line while dropping the gearbox crossmember to change the turbo, but I haven't had a chance to get underneath to look yet.

Also I have tried the method here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/4wd-Light-S2-s-t190973.html - the one for r33 and r34 non vspec - drive at 30kph for 1 minute then look at the flashing led on the attesa ecu. I removed the carpet surround at the right rear of the boot and used a mirror, but couldn't see any led flashing or any reflection of it... probably doesn't work for M35s anyways.

Also, from what I understand while the 4WD light is on the car will only operate in RWD mode. Am I doing any damage to the drivetrain when it is in RWD mode by way of the ECU controlling it? Or is it just as bad as pulling the fuse?

Any ideas? Would a Nissan dealer be able to tell me what code 0235 means? Also wasn't there an AWD version of the G35 sold in the states?

Has anyone else with the 4WD light problem tried getting an ECU fault code?

Cheers

Glenn

[Jetwreck]

Has anyone else with the 4WD light problem tried getting an ECU fault code?

Yeh my like comes and goes....pretty sure that the 4WD is still working though as I went through some pretty deep sand recently and could feel the front wheels driving even though the 4WD light was on.

I have however had the pleasure of driving mine in 2WD and trust me the whole dynamics of the car changes.

I am pretty sure that my error has to do with how much mud and gunk is on my front RHS wheel sensor as I can still hear my pump run up when I start the car.

[lachlanw]

P0235 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

from here .

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ob...m35+error+codes.

Edited January 31, 2010 by lachlanw

[GlennM35]

P0235 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

from here .

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ob...m35+error+codes.

Awesome, thanks for that!

Back to the drawing board for the 4WD light though

[Jetwreck]

thats awesome....funny I never even saw that thread before......confirms the Haltech problem I have 0335.

[KiwiRS4T]

Hey guys!

Ever since getting the car back on the road with the new turbo, I've been getting the 4WD light come on temperamentally. It usually happens if I have to do some maneuvering before getting up to speed, like reversing out of carparks and such. I can usually get it to go off and stay off by turning the car off while I'm at lights just before they go green - getting the car or engine up to speed quickly seems to nullify it.

Anyway, I thought I'd check to see if I'd get an ECU fault code even though the MIL light has not come on, and the 4WD light doesn't persist after turning the car off like the MIL light does. Much to my suprise it spat out 0235. I've searched right through a G35 service manual and googled for ages but cannot find anything that says what it is, although the suspicion is that it's to do with the ATTESA system.

One thing I have been noticing recently with the car is that when I pull up to a stop, just as the car is almost about to stop I hear and feel a creaking sort of noise from somewhere underneath. Then when I take off again there's another creak.

Andy suggested to me last weekend that it maybe my mechanic hit the ATTESA line while dropping the gearbox crossmember to change the turbo, but I haven't had a chance to get underneath to look yet.

Also I have tried the method here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/4wd-Light-S2-s-t190973.html - the one for r33 and r34 non vspec - drive at 30kph for 1 minute then look at the flashing led on the attesa ecu. I removed the carpet surround at the right rear of the boot and used a mirror, but couldn't see any led flashing or any reflection of it... probably doesn't work for M35s anyways.

Also, from what I understand while the 4WD light is on the car will only operate in RWD mode. Am I doing any damage to the drivetrain when it is in RWD mode by way of the ECU controlling it? Or is it just as bad as pulling the fuse?

It is not necessarily the case that you are in RWD only if the 4wd light is on - that just indicates a fault. it could be as little as low level in the reservoir (you have checked that?)

I don't know where the atessa computer is on the M35 but on the C34 it is in the luggage compartment left hand side between the tailgate and the wheel arch so a major to uncover it but that's what you will have to do to read the error codes.

[lachlanw]

what are your wheels and tires like ?size ?condition maybe its being a dick because your combination is just outside of the tolerance . you havent got snow mode or something ike that on ?

[GlennM35]

It is not necessarily the case that you are in RWD only if the 4wd light is on - that just indicates a fault. it could be as little as low level in the reservoir (you have checked that?)

I don't know where the atessa computer is on the M35 but on the C34 it is in the luggage compartment left hand side between the tailgate and the wheel arch so a major to uncover it but that's what you will have to do to read the error codes.

Yeah the attesa computer is in the rear right. I managed to get the carpeting off but it didn't reveal too much. I'll have a go on the weekend at getting the computer out from where it's wedged which is between a metal bracket and the reservoir.

I topped the reservoir up but it didn't make any difference. The problem seems to happen most often after a warm start, it is usually fine in the morning.

Can Nissan get the fault code from a consult? If I have no luck with on the weekend I'll take it in to them.

HAven't checked the tyre pressure properly but none are flat. And the tyres would have been new from compliance and I've only done about 11000kms I think.

[Jetwreck]

Yeah the attesa computer is in the rear right. I managed to get the carpeting off but it didn't reveal too much. I'll have a go on the weekend at getting the computer out from where it's wedged which is between a metal bracket and the reservoir.

I topped the reservoir up but it didn't make any difference. The problem seems to happen most often after a warm start, it is usually fine in the morning.

Can Nissan get the fault code from a consult? If I have no luck with on the weekend I'll take it in to them.

HAven't checked the tyre pressure properly but none are flat. And the tyres would have been new from compliance and I've only done about 11000kms I think.

Thats what mine did...now the 4WD light is on all the time. Let me know what you find. Hopefully it's cheap

[Stagea Gazza]

If I put my foot on the brake before starting and hold it on the brake until it is into drive then the 4wd light does not seem to come on (well maybe not as often anyway).

Not very scientific but i'd be interested in hearing if anyone else notices a similar thing.

[Jetwreck]

If I put my foot on the brake before starting and hold it on the brake until it is into drive then the 4wd light does not seem to come on (well maybe not as often anyway).

Not very scientific but i'd be interested in hearing if anyone else notices a similar thing.

I have to admit I was a bit sceptical about this......but it bloody works....just tried it and then backed it up!

[Jetwreck]

If I put my foot on the brake before starting and hold it on the brake until it is into drive then the 4wd light does not seem to come on (well maybe not as often anyway).

Not very scientific but i'd be interested in hearing if anyone else notices a similar thing.

I have to admit I was a bit sceptical about this......but it bloody works....just tried it and then backed it up!

[Jetwreck]

shit it the Matrix.....de javu!

[iamhe77]

If I put my foot on the brake before starting and hold it on the brake until it is into drive then the 4wd light does not seem to come on (well maybe not as often anyway).

Not very scientific but i'd be interested in hearing if anyone else notices a similar thing.

I have to admit I was a bit sceptical about this......but it bloody works....just tried it and then backed it up!

Really? interesting....

[lachlanw]

attesa will do a sensor check after the car has started . if wheel speed sensors dont read zero it will pack a sad . thats how on the r32s you could just turn it off and back on while rolling and itd go 2wd . well it did on every other attesa . which would couincide with the time taken to start it and hold brake on and put it in drive . my c34 hicas will throw a light if i start it and crank it 3 or 4 locks straight away

[StefanNM35]

Hi All,

It looks like i'll have to bring this topic back as it appears to be the closest to what i'm experiencing. i have a 2001 rs four and lately its been having a bit of a Low Idle issue.

The problem started about 2 weeks ago and from what i have noticed it only happens when i come to a complete stop. The idle drops to about 800rpm, which i thought would be normal as its been around there for the last year and a half. but after a couple of seconds it starts to drop the idle speed down to about 550rpm. it drops it at a slow rate of about 50rpm at a time until it reaches the 550rpm mark. its not stalling so i guess thats a good thing atm. i am not getting any lights on the dash or any misfire so i dont know what to think?!?!?

The car is stock apart from a plenum spacer and a transmission cooler. it has so far done 105,000km and apart from the rear left rocker seal leak, which was fixed, it has had no other issues.

I dont know why, but for some reason tonight as i parked the car in the garage i decided to perform a ECU fault code check and even though the CEL (MIL) wasn't on it came back with 0235. checking it against the ecu fault codes i found here, its the same thing as what was mentioned earlier in this topic, P0235 = Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

What and where is the Turbocharger boost sensor A? what was the solution to the original post as i cannot see how this is related to the ATTESA?

Please help as i'm not sure how much longer it will go until it starts to stall? Is it possible that there is an air leak from a vacuum line somewhere? as this seems to be the more common reason for this error according to google. has anyone had any issues with the plenum spacer leaking? maybe my plenum gaskets are no good? what about the afm?

or should i just bite the bullet and take it to nissan? and which NIssan as not all of them would look at imports? i'm from south west sydney but am willing to travel all over sydney to get my Stagea fixed.

sorry for the long essay but i just want it sorted.

Thanks in advance.

Stefan

[andy65b]

Hi Stefan

What i can tell you is.

Idle speed has to set between 600-700 rpm (with all accessories turned off). If this does not happen when you do the idle set procedure the ECU will not remember the idle speed.

As the M35 has an electronic throttle body, there is no Idle bypass tube so any air going to the motor at idle is passing around the throttle butterfly. I would recommend you remove the throttle body and clean the inside with Carby cleaner. Do not push the throttle butterfly open as this can damage the calibration. This should stop the revs dipping when you back off the throttle.

You should now try to reset the idle using the prescribed procedure, if it sets between 600-700rpm all good. If not, one of the things that should be replaced every 80'000km is the PCV valve. This is located on the bank on the drivers side towards the front of the motor. It sits under the intake and has a hose leading into the plenum. If this valve is fault (at 105'000 it is due for replacement) you will not be able to set the idle at the correct speed. If you suspect it is faulty, by removing the hose from the plenum and blocking off the hose end and the plenum, you can now redo the idle reset and it should set correctly.

The Turbo Boost sensor, is a small (match box) item that is connected to the aluminum intake pipe running up to the throttle body. It is attached off the steel brace coming from the Plenum. This could just be a blocked hose.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Andy

[StefanNM35]

Thanks Andy, your quick response it greatly appreciated.

it does help a lot as i now have something to go by and i will also give the throttle body a good scrub and at the same time can make sure that the plenum gaskets are fine.

seeing as you recommend the pcv to be replaced i will call Nissan tomorrow and see when i can get one.

i will let you know how i go as this might come in handy for others.

Thanks Again.

Stefan

[zei20l]

while your under the bonnet, also might be worth checking the plug on the boost sensor and maybe spray it with electrical cleaner. its possible the sensor is failing.

[zei20l]

ohh and another thing, that hose going to the boost sensor might be split. check also.