Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys i been searching for a while now and couldnt get a straight answer.

Im currently building an rb30det with a rb25det vvt head with PROcams, I will be using tomei cam gears with the VVT removed. Do i still need an external oil supply to the front of the head for the cam journal or is it only used for vvt purposes?

Any help would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306143-procams-in-rb2530/
Share on other sites

Front feed in the head is for VVT. If retaining VVT there are mods you can make in the gallery, otherwise run an external feed as per the RB30DET guide.

If deleting VVT there is more than adequate oil supply to the front cam journals. You can also remove the solenoid and install a bung to simplify things.

Be sure to check the lift specs in Pro Cams - beyond 9mm in a RB25 head will probably require machining to give adequate clearance and avoid coil bind on the valve springs. If unsure you should consult with a head specialist and get things measured on the bench.

Unless for extreme use, external drain is over-rated and misunderstood IMO.

Better value and results if the time and effort is spent drilling out the internal drainbacks in the head and block.

Otherwise, yep, use a bung where the solenoid used to reside (make sure it is the correct type to seal), and have the feed hole welded or grub screwed as per the guide.

fair enough. atleast its clear now. I have the head next to me now all apart and i can see that the vvt cam journal has 2 holes in it. One of them must me a constant oil supply from somewhere and the other is a supply from the vvt solenoid yea? The heads going on an rb34 stroker bottom end and there isnt must money spared on this setup so i wanna do it right without any troubles.

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
    • Brand was ard.   I also threw a brand new battery at it and beefed up the wire from the alternator to battery and added an extra earthing point from the battery 
    • Evening all,       I'm replacing some bolts on my RB25 with probolt Australia bolts.       Does anyone know the following, m5 m6 etc 10mm 20mm etc       Coil cover   Cam covers   Plazamaman fuel rail   Front cover (timing cover)   Etc   Any help would be awesome   Or any lists anywhere
×
×
  • Create New...