Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Randomly Turning Off


NSNPWR
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ive done a heap of reading and searching on this issue but havent been able to nut it out as yet...

The car is an 89 32 GTR, running PFC and stock AFMs plus various other mods...

So heres the problem, it starts perfect cold and runs great...until water temp reches around 35 degrees...then from about 35 degrees through to 70 or so degrees it will just randomly turn off whenever it feels like it, it restarts and idles fine until it decides to turn off again, it doesnt always turn off, on occassions it has just idled like shit and then stalled...

It has also done this a few times when at operating temperature, while driving along, it just will not rev, putting your foot down makes it choke....most of the time however once its warm its been fine.

So far ive pulled AFMs apart and resoldered the 4 connections as per the tech guide, ive sprayed AFM inside and out with CRC contact cleaner, sprayed/cleaned the CAS plug...

Just seems really inconsistant and im reluctant to drive it at all at the moment...input much appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this is what i would do in order;

check for vacuum leaks (it is a 20yr old car after all)

check coolant temp sensor and idle air control valve

fuel pump/wiring to the fuel pump

clean/service injectors

good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my RB25DE I pulled the AFM apart and resoldered the joints and sprayed inside it, it was good for about a week and then it was never repairable (by me), so I replaced it with a very good condition (but used) one and it's been great since.

Yours might be the same, just might not be repairable, because it sounds like the EXACT problem I had.

Edited by -Jimmy-
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Cheers for the replies fellas, I know it was a pretty vague description and could have been anything...

Turns out connection to Power FC wasnt done up too tight...so I pulled it off, sprayed it thoroughly with the contact cleaner, did it back up properly and hasnt missed a beat since...car has been perfect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

afm's definatly do this.. and its a common problem... you can get brand new z32 afms from various suppliers on here for around $300 each... you'll need something to run them, like a safc... but you'll never have the problem again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers for the replies fellas, I know it was a pretty vague description and could have been anything...

Turns out connection to Power FC wasnt done up too tight...so I pulled it off, sprayed it thoroughly with the contact cleaner, did it back up properly and hasnt missed a beat since...car has been perfect.

It will do it again when it does its one of the AFMs playing up try and isolate which one it is and swap it Good Luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on.
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...