Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

BIT-SUS, whats the PPG gearset like to drive with?

AWESOME.

- Helical synchro, sounds like an F1 car!

not as loud as a straight cut (WHERE'S THAT REX??)

But brilliant. I'm loving the new ratios (1st=90km/h)

Been smashing through the gears for ages now with the Exedy Carbon twin plate,

would highly recommend PPG gearbox. my total bill came in at $9,800 for parts and labour at PPG, and about $900 to R&R gearbox with a new clutch

I went for the

1-5th Helical Synchro kit

Billet selector forks

Billet input shaft

new synchros

new bearings

new seals

4L of Redline Lightweight Shockproof

never looked back.

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

GTR gearboxes are strong - its high rev gear changes in the lightning quick fashion that kills the syncro which just can't keep up then the gear faces strip with bits of syncro floating around like boat people north of Australia. Mechanical Sympathy is the cheapest way to keep gearboxes together, the tenth of a second you change gears faster by as you reef the gearstick through its gates makes no appreciable difference to your ability to eat other car makes - on a closed circuit of course :P

That being said the gear ratios and clutchless shifting (talking dogbox) are superior for track work :)

well the clutch is going in next weekend hopefully...getting my thrust bearings and other stuff tomorrow or friday....also getting the diff done at the same time so should be reasonably good

Typically a clutch is all those brass button can be cushioned with ceramic clutch pads unless you've gone for a carbon one

i wanted to know what type and what plate face and compound he went for, as in single plate, multi pate, full face, puk, organic,brass, ceramic, carbon etc..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...