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dont want to run the risk of damaging the internal. this engine build was a no expense spared built up its not worthing running chopped out turbos and having the chance a wheel blade breaking off and going threw the engine.

engine and turbos only 2000km old i wouldnt call that driving it around for quite some time. 1500km of that was run in and driving it back to south aus. its only had 500km of hard driving if that.

have you contacted hypergear? he may be able to replace the dusted wheels for a better price, he seems to be that way.

im guessing that metal is either lodged somewhere int he intercooler or injested by the motor.. yet if on a budget if look at removing and cleaning everything and perhaps running with the turbos as is, as im sure you have been already for quite some time.. dont miss out on superlap... but make sure you flush the entire system out before you go any further..

i dont see the harm in using that turbo for now, provided its solid

that does look like welding dag, and coming from the bovs pipe would be the only way it could come from.

high pressure from the bovs blowing it thru that way, otherwise it would have never made it to the AFM

i smell compo

engine and turbos only 2000km old i wouldnt call that driving it around for quite some time. 1500km of that was run in and driving it back to south aus. its only had 500km of hard driving if that.

3 seconds is about all you need for it to injest something once started, so in hindsight 2000km was quite a while. yet thats not saying anything about you, its merely a mistake, clearly not on your behalf.

as stated if they seem to be structurally solid and are marked rather than cracked they may last, yet thats your call

it only had 500km on it since the bov returns where custom made up and final tune done. and turbos where fine when the pipeing was off the turbos getting welded for the bov returns, so damage would have been done on the dyno getting its race tune.

not feeling the love for gtr's anymore. anyone want to buy one? lol

just a quick question thats got me stuped.

wouldnt the pressure be greader getting suked into the turbo than the preasure being released by the bov's retune into the turbos intake between afm and turbo? like how is it be posible for slag to try exit the afm before changing direction back in to the turbo?

BB units shouldn't rub against housings unless there is a bearing issue. If you an not feel any shaft play in them it means the wheels are broken from foreign objects. Which means they only require a new comp wheel which is a pretty cheap repair.

If the bearings are worn due to oil issues (which can only be this issue) then this repair will be very costly.

the problem with ball bearing garretts is when you pull them apart the bearings get dammaged. ie, taking them down to bare shaft and wheels.

they are not designed to be pulled apart. the bearing inner race is a very tight fit on the shaft. so to actualy balance them, youneed to factor in a replacement ball bearing cartridge. hence the cost. from a mass produced side of things its cheaper to just buy a new chra unfortonatly.

going to send off to get the new comp wheels in and balance wasnt as pricey as expected $300 a wheel then just balance on each of them.

no need to replace whole turbos there is no play or wear in them just chewed up comp wheels.

yeh didnt hear anything or even notice any power loss got 375awkw on the dyno only noticed because i removed the inlet to get the air con off. luck i noticed now rather than when a blade goes threw the engine or screwed the turbos completly.

i destroyed a comp wheel on an HKS 2835 with some blow by oil (no catch can setup)... the broken blades were found embedded in the rubber intake pipe! because I was on a skidpan at the time and on/off the throttle tuner reckons it spat them back towards the AFM as I came off the gas

pretty sure we only had to replace the comp wheel but I can't remember 100%

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