Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If I can find the bits I want for my car I'm planning to keep it and do it up. Looking for say 220-230RWKW. Been told so many different things regarding what to do and what not to do but show me what you got.

Turbo kits, something like a GTRS which seems to be a good upgrade from what ive been told

Power FC

Spitfire Coils

Full Manual Conversion for whatever but prefer 33 due to better clutch selection

FMIC

Fuel Pump

Injectors

Reply to thread please

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306372-wtb-bits-for-r34-skyline-4-door/
Share on other sites

Brand New HKS GTRS turbo kit - $3230 delivered.

Brand New Power FC & Commander - $1700.00 delivered.

Brand New Yellow Jackets coil packs - $410.00 delivered.

Brand New HDI/Hybrid FMIC - $570 delivered.

Brand New Tomei Fuel Pump - $470 delivered.

6x Brand New Nismo 555cc injectors - $990 delivered

If you purchase the lot, I can do it for $7000 delivered.

PM me if your keen :D

Brand New HKS GTRS turbo kit - $3230 delivered.

Brand New Power FC & Commander - $1700.00 delivered.

Brand New Yellow Jackets coil packs - $410.00 delivered.

Brand New HDI/Hybrid FMIC - $570 delivered.

Brand New Tomei Fuel Pump - $470 delivered.

6x Brand New Nismo 555cc injectors - $990 delivered

If you purchase the lot, I can do it for $7000 delivered.

PM me if your keen :P

PM Sent

  • 4 weeks later...

All I need now is a manual conversion with a clutch and exhaust to suit, prefer non barrel

Come on guys show me what you have...............Cash waiting!

Giulian

ummm i dont have the bits as i just converted my 4dr r34 into a manual... but i picked up a GTST r33 box for 1200 man.. just so you know what price range your looking at... all up cost me just over $2000 in parts with a h/duty clutch aswell...

  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks noely1

I got quoted over $2400 from wreckers in Adelaide (Box, Pedal, master and slave, cross member) but doing some shopping around as well I'm not in that big of a rush to do it I picked up:

R33 Box 90,000ks old and very clean for $1200 with tailshaft, slave and fork and got a cross member with a Nismo mount for $100

Brand new R34 master for $115

R34 pedal with master pin in excellent condition for $150 (didnt want to muck around with an R33 pedal and I know these are hard to find)

All brand new flywheel and clutch bolts from Nissan for around $40

Manual console trims are going for around $100

Dash and steering wheel arent that important to me at this stage unless one come up cheap but thats around $400 the pair.

All I need now it clutch and flywheel which i have priced up around 1K but thats a factory weight brand new chromolly wheel and a good clutch to support the one I want.

So I will fall well below the $2400 price quoted and thats with the dash, wheel and some other bits that those conversions kits didnt come with.

Giulian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...