Jump to content
SAU Community

RB20/clutch/oilcooler/casterrods/r32exh +

Clint32
 Share

Recommended Posts

Clint32 Mentor

Clint32

Posted
Posted

Have a few things left for sale

new alloy rose jointedadjustable caster rods to suit all skylines, $250

R32 exhaust with 3'' high flow cat converter and 3'' pipe and stainless muffler, all very good conditon and not overly loud, $650 inc fitting in adelaide

can sell as a cat back for $450

complete rb20, comes with inlet and exh manifold, injectors, coils, cas, throttlebodywith tps, no wiring or turbo can inc p/s pump and air cond condenser as well**make an offer around $600 may seperate

set of rb25 injectors $100

Trust copy fibreglass front bar for r32, some minor damage $200

R32 gtst bonnet, very good condition in burgendy $100ono

Alloy GT wing black,with twin blades, adjustable $150

Blitz stainless manifold suit rb20/25, low mount turbo with the runners over the top, r31gtsr style, vgood condition, has pipe for external gate and t2 flange but these can easily be changed $650

R32 GTR cooler in very good condition, still painted black, $500 firm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30639-rb20clutchoilcoolercasterrodsr32exh/
Share on other sites
Clint32 Mentor

Clint32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

also have a set of avs 16x8 wheels, powdercoated black and fitted with new dunlop sp sport 9000 tyres and have only done 100kms since, only selling as i have pulled my car apart and fitting new eng etc will not be on the road for 6months, looking for $1500, may sell two wheels/tyres seperately.

email [email protected]

inark Grand Master

inark

Posted
Posted

clint can u email me details of the oil cooler and how easy it is to install etc and some pics if u can?

also the GT wing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PotatoCake
      Exhaust silencers/varex exhausts

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      Coming home late at night and driving past the police is the only reason i need one haha And yeh, definitley needs a switch to quickly enable it, dont have time to be getting my phone, opening an app, waiting for it to update etc before being able to make the change
    • silviaz
      Import insurance in 2025

      By silviaz · Posted

      Because it is financially convenient for them lol. Why wouldn't they want to give you the lowest possible valuation for your car?
    • silviaz
      Import insurance in 2025

      By silviaz · Posted

      Yep. @Duncan also shannons they will rip you dry and will be probably limited on how much you can drive. Also keep in mind that you always have to have it garaged with Shannons, with enthusiasts as per their PDS you can have it 2 times per week on the driveway for example. 
    • The Bogan
      Exhaust silencers/varex exhausts

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I had a generic 4" Varex rear box on my old V8, worked a treat for sneaking home late at night, it was as quite as stock when closed The car was "fairly" loud when open as it consisted of 1" 7/8 headers to 3" catted Y pipe, to 4" single, it did have a resonator in the mid pipe and only the Varex out the back I also hard wired in a Varex dash mount switch, as the key fob thing is a pain to use when driving I wouldn't recommend giving the beans when it is closed though as it creates a large restriction in the exhaust  It also can in very handy when pulled over for "random" breath tests or just cruising past the constabulary   
    • stewart1
      How To Fix Tacho, R33 (maybe)

      By stewart1 · Posted

      Here is the before and after of the scraping/sanding of the IC pads on the tachometer board for the fix mentioned in this thread. And yes it worked fine after. Just a note if you change any components on the board the tach calibration can be wrong showing the wrong idle etc...only problem is once it is installed back in the cluster you can't get to it to adjust...ouch! My fix was to cut out the calibration pot (the blue one) from the board and run it with two wires to the fuse panel under the dash where I could adjust the idle calibration once everything was installed. And yes I soldered everything up again including the half soldered components either side of the IC in my photos                                
×
×
  • Create New...