Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My flatmate and me are having an argument about this.

He is adamant that i can have the stock (but chipped) RB20de ECU thats currently running my RB25det tuned to not use the AFM anymore, and it will run sweet as......

i disagree as i have never seen this done on anything but mitsi's. and if it was this simple, that more people would be doing it (surely).

Can anyone shed some light on this?

technically yes you could plug a map sensor in and tun it to work but it may require some firmware revision/external microprocessor

could i use a SAFC to do it? or does that run off the AFM only?

i cant see how chipping the ecu will let you run a MAP sensor. with a chipped ecu you can easily swap to a different AFM like Z32 or Q45 buy altering the VQ tables. A MAP sensor setup is a completely different style of metering the air, the output needs to be handled differently. An SAFC will be of no help to you either as when you set it up you tell it if you are running a Hotwire (AFM) or Pressure (MAP) sensor, i think its also Flap and Karman?? but you can only choose one of them.

Edited by QWK32

no it isnt expensive

the map ecu piggyback I am selling is around $400 and allows you to remove the afm see www.mapecu.com

the aem f/ic-8 that I use in my stagea runs map (around $400 again, ebay), however the stock ecu wants to read the afm voltages

easy enough to get around and tune.

so thats $400AUD (im in nz) and then a tune ($200 at mates rates)

where as i can get a link ecu and get it tuned for that much and it has more functionality than a stock ECU.

nice to know it is possible tho

Edited by Hiney
ok cool :P

so it is possible, but an expensive and stupid idea (just get a link/PFC).

cheers guys :)

what you have to look at is, do you need to run MAP. there are people making good power on AFM setups with either a Z32 or Q45 AFM. do you really need to go and get a aftermarket setup like the Link/ViPec just to run MAP, or will a chipped ecu with an upgraded MAF be good enough for the power output your chasing.

Edited by QWK32

im not chasing much at all. 250kw i'd be more than happy with. so i'll stick with the AFM.

reason it came up, is i just put a GT35 turbo on my car and the AFM is too close to the turbo so has HEAPS of turbulence and runs like ass.

so to fix it, instead of shelling out heaps, i'll just get a 90 degree alloy bend and put the AFM on the other side of that instead of just a straight pipe off the front on the turbo.

GT35 and 250kw? Whats the point?

That turbo will do 380rwkw... put something more appropriate on there.

And no, he factory ECU - even chipped - will not run MAP.

i've got that turbo becuase my last turbo let go, and this was the cheapest most reasonable turbo available quickly.

and 250kw because i'm still going to be using the stock injectors. like to keep it nice and reliable since its my daily driver

i've got that turbo becuase my last turbo let go, and this was the cheapest most reasonable turbo available quickly.

and 250kw because i'm still going to be using the stock injectors. like to keep it nice and reliable since its my daily driver

Yeah but the point is not out of reliabilty here the point is you hav a 350kw plus turbo when you only are going to run 250kw so youve just all of a sudden got alot of extra lag for the same power you could have got with a high flow stock turbo or a garett 3071, just because the turbo is bigger doesnt somehow make it more reliable than the smaller one just outputs more power

no no, 250kw on stock fuelling is safe, i never said the turbo was safe.

and if you're all willing to chip in to buy me a more sensible turbo and/or fuelling upgrades then i'm more than happy to have more power or less lag. and now you're going to say "sell you GT35 and buy a smaller turbo" and i'm going to say "no, because i have work every day and need the car to keep going and don't have the money to get my exhaust changed again. and since its just a cheapie chinese turbo (not a garrett) its not worth diddly squat 2nd hand".

hope this solves the (somewhat offtopic) issue of my turbo-to-boost ratio.

sadly i have alot of bills piling in at the moment so as long as the cars going, i'm happy.

this was merely a thread started to see if it was possible to do this. just to answer an argument. i am in NO WAY intending to remove my AFM as i have solved my issue and all is now right with the world.

Edited by Hiney
GT35 and 250kw? Whats the point?

That turbo will do 380rwkw... put something more appropriate on there.

And no, he factory ECU - even chipped - will not run MAP.

Kind of, it isnt possible with your run of the mill chips but it is possible but i'm not sure 100% how its done, i had to retrofit a PFC D-jetro to a imported car from japan (GTR) with remaped ecu running map. I tried various ways to pull the base image off it but failed. It would have been quite nice to use the modified address information for other Nissan ecu's.

It is still a pet project of mine atm for SR20.

Well - of course anything can be done with money. :)

It's just programming afterall - however the question of it being worthwhile/available at the moment would suggest otherwise in my books!

lol this is wrong for so many reasons.

Tell me about it :D

Well - of course anything can be done with money. :)

It's just programming afterall - however the question of it being worthwhile/available at the moment would suggest otherwise in my books!

Tell me about it :D

100% agreed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
×
×
  • Create New...