Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My flatmate and me are having an argument about this.

He is adamant that i can have the stock (but chipped) RB20de ECU thats currently running my RB25det tuned to not use the AFM anymore, and it will run sweet as......

i disagree as i have never seen this done on anything but mitsi's. and if it was this simple, that more people would be doing it (surely).

Can anyone shed some light on this?

  Crans said:
technically yes you could plug a map sensor in and tun it to work but it may require some firmware revision/external microprocessor

could i use a SAFC to do it? or does that run off the AFM only?

i cant see how chipping the ecu will let you run a MAP sensor. with a chipped ecu you can easily swap to a different AFM like Z32 or Q45 buy altering the VQ tables. A MAP sensor setup is a completely different style of metering the air, the output needs to be handled differently. An SAFC will be of no help to you either as when you set it up you tell it if you are running a Hotwire (AFM) or Pressure (MAP) sensor, i think its also Flap and Karman?? but you can only choose one of them.

Edited by QWK32

no it isnt expensive

the map ecu piggyback I am selling is around $400 and allows you to remove the afm see www.mapecu.com

the aem f/ic-8 that I use in my stagea runs map (around $400 again, ebay), however the stock ecu wants to read the afm voltages

easy enough to get around and tune.

so thats $400AUD (im in nz) and then a tune ($200 at mates rates)

where as i can get a link ecu and get it tuned for that much and it has more functionality than a stock ECU.

nice to know it is possible tho

Edited by Hiney
  Hiney said:
ok cool :P

so it is possible, but an expensive and stupid idea (just get a link/PFC).

cheers guys :)

what you have to look at is, do you need to run MAP. there are people making good power on AFM setups with either a Z32 or Q45 AFM. do you really need to go and get a aftermarket setup like the Link/ViPec just to run MAP, or will a chipped ecu with an upgraded MAF be good enough for the power output your chasing.

Edited by QWK32

im not chasing much at all. 250kw i'd be more than happy with. so i'll stick with the AFM.

reason it came up, is i just put a GT35 turbo on my car and the AFM is too close to the turbo so has HEAPS of turbulence and runs like ass.

so to fix it, instead of shelling out heaps, i'll just get a 90 degree alloy bend and put the AFM on the other side of that instead of just a straight pipe off the front on the turbo.

  R31Nismoid said:
GT35 and 250kw? Whats the point?

That turbo will do 380rwkw... put something more appropriate on there.

And no, he factory ECU - even chipped - will not run MAP.

i've got that turbo becuase my last turbo let go, and this was the cheapest most reasonable turbo available quickly.

and 250kw because i'm still going to be using the stock injectors. like to keep it nice and reliable since its my daily driver

  Hiney said:
i've got that turbo becuase my last turbo let go, and this was the cheapest most reasonable turbo available quickly.

and 250kw because i'm still going to be using the stock injectors. like to keep it nice and reliable since its my daily driver

Yeah but the point is not out of reliabilty here the point is you hav a 350kw plus turbo when you only are going to run 250kw so youve just all of a sudden got alot of extra lag for the same power you could have got with a high flow stock turbo or a garett 3071, just because the turbo is bigger doesnt somehow make it more reliable than the smaller one just outputs more power

no no, 250kw on stock fuelling is safe, i never said the turbo was safe.

and if you're all willing to chip in to buy me a more sensible turbo and/or fuelling upgrades then i'm more than happy to have more power or less lag. and now you're going to say "sell you GT35 and buy a smaller turbo" and i'm going to say "no, because i have work every day and need the car to keep going and don't have the money to get my exhaust changed again. and since its just a cheapie chinese turbo (not a garrett) its not worth diddly squat 2nd hand".

hope this solves the (somewhat offtopic) issue of my turbo-to-boost ratio.

sadly i have alot of bills piling in at the moment so as long as the cars going, i'm happy.

this was merely a thread started to see if it was possible to do this. just to answer an argument. i am in NO WAY intending to remove my AFM as i have solved my issue and all is now right with the world.

Edited by Hiney
  R31Nismoid said:
GT35 and 250kw? Whats the point?

That turbo will do 380rwkw... put something more appropriate on there.

And no, he factory ECU - even chipped - will not run MAP.

Kind of, it isnt possible with your run of the mill chips but it is possible but i'm not sure 100% how its done, i had to retrofit a PFC D-jetro to a imported car from japan (GTR) with remaped ecu running map. I tried various ways to pull the base image off it but failed. It would have been quite nice to use the modified address information for other Nissan ecu's.

It is still a pet project of mine atm for SR20.

Well - of course anything can be done with money. :)

It's just programming afterall - however the question of it being worthwhile/available at the moment would suggest otherwise in my books!

  The Mafia said:
lol this is wrong for so many reasons.

Tell me about it :D

  R31Nismoid said:
Well - of course anything can be done with money. :)

It's just programming afterall - however the question of it being worthwhile/available at the moment would suggest otherwise in my books!

Tell me about it :D

100% agreed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...