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Big Sump

gL3nJaMiN88

By gL3nJaMiN88,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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gL3nJaMiN88

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well i'm getting everything done , Forged Rods + Pistons and ACL bearings all round . N1 Oil pump + N1 water pump and full head work done .. so im expecting around 300rwkw+ with the turbo + Fuel setup that i have .. I give the car alot of hell , hence why my last motor blew up due to seized bearing or whatever made my rod fly out the side of block .. I just dont wanna have any oil issues with the car and was wondering is the Spool Hi Energy sump too much for what im doing and does it really help with the rb25 oil issues .. also i am fitting the tomei oil oriphis or watever they are called into the head

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GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

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I agree. Drop the N1 pump too and buy a JUN or something better with the money you'll save, and run the 1.5mm restrictor/block off plug setup as per sydney kids recommendonations.

If your overly concerned about oil surge on the street because of how you give the car hell, then run the oil level a tad above the high line. Problem solved.

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Brezza Proficient

Brezza

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if you're just doing street work there may be some baffle kit for the sump?

i have a sump baffle and an oil restrictor on my GTR when i had my engine rebuilt.

it works well for the street.

and if you're not tracking the car, then i doubt you'd really need to be sitting on the rev limiter when driving it on the street.

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R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

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Waste of money.

N1 pump is fine.

Stock sump is also fine.

If you are worried, just overfill by 500ml for a RB25. As long as the head/restrictors are done correctly in a street car you don't need to go all stupid on parts.

Especailly not for 300rwkw.

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Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

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Im buying billet gears for my stock oil pump...should solve durability issues as even the N1 pump still runs sintered steel for the gears, which is prone to cracking, the best part is the billet gears cost a lot less than the high end pumps but should be just as strong

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R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

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if the motor is out then y not do it anyway???

what if in 6 months he suddenly decideds he wants to take it racing abit.

may aswell do it now n save on labour in the future.

I can play that game as well... What if he doesn't go circuit racing? Pointless mod.

Even with 300rwkw @ the circuit - Your "average" 350rwkw GTR with 4wd and semi's comp's doesnt use sump baffling...

Now given they will have more traction and g-force than a 300rwkw gts-t will ever have...

I cannot see a baffled sump being of much use.

More beers @ the pub for him basically, signifigantly more infact.

The fact he "gives his car hell" and threw a rod would be more about limiter abuse and poor maintenance... none of which a super sump is going to stop at all.

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STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

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fit std pump and std water pump, more than adequate.

We used a std RB26 sump with removed diff and a tomei baffle only. With a greddy pump (60l per min) we had no issues for 3 years, we "upgraded" to a bigger baffled sump from a reputable engine builder and it cost us two engines (independently inspected).... swapped to an ASR and all the dramas are over.

point of story, you dont need one but if you do the only after market RWD sump we use now is the ASR (high energy) item.

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MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
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Was it a properly built motor, with 300rwkw, as per the nature of this thread?

But then, all you NSW people seem to suffer from SBS.

Stock motor at 250RWKW...

And it spat it off throttle. When I picked the throttle up it was all over.

And that's because NSW has real race tracks... Or did... :D Oran Park ate mine going through the dip before the bridge...

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