Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas Light & No Power Steering

awsam

By awsam,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
Posted

This last week my R33 S1 has been losing power steering, only after a reasonably long trip though. Say about 45min to an hour of driving. When i stop the car and then start it again minutes later the Hicas light is on and I have no power steering. Anyone local have any experience with this issue? Also this week there's been a sickly tapping or knocking noise comming from under the bonnet somewhere. Sound gets faster when I rev the car. Just mentioning it in case the two are related

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306545-hicas-light-no-power-steering/
Share on other sites
awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That was my first thought but fluid level was right where it needed to be.

checked engine oil, that sickly tapping noise sounds like my engine rev fast knock goes faster = spun bearing

Yah engine oil is still at a good level and a good colour. What was your spun bearing in?

Race__24 Experienced

Race__24

Posted
Posted

Silly question, but are all your belts still there? Not spinning on the pulleys?

Could be a speed sensor issue, both the HICAS and power steer need the speed sensor to detect how fast your going. I'd be doing a search on that, maybe something's come unplugged or broken. Speedo working? If not I'd be pretty sure that that's the problem.

AshesR33 Rookie

AshesR33

Posted
Posted

I have a similar problem with my HICAS but now stays on all the time, from what I have read mine is probably the HICAS ECU not working but haven't had the chance to change it over to see if that fixes it, will let you know if I do fix it.

I used to have a similar noise from the engine (was after some spirited driving), oil was a liitle low and sounded like lifter noise changed the oil and noise has basically dissapeared apart from when first started for about 10 seconds. hope this info helps a bit.

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The sickly noise sounded like a really loud tractor, noise started one day very quiet then 2 days later it was real loud and like a said a tractor. Also started nearly stalling. Replaced plugs and flushed oil and its almost completely gone. Mechanic said Lifters were blocked a little.

Will try and do a hicas diagnostic today. Mechanic couldn't find anything wrong with the power steering (although I dont think he looked to closely) The power steering is starting to cut out more frequently now. Last week it was only after a 45 min plus drive. Now after like 15 min if I stop and turn the engine off, then turn back on HICAS light on and no power steer..

Have a slight rubbing noise from the belts atm, just had a new timing belt put in so I'm not sure if its that or not.

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
need to describe the knocking noise better... power steering pump fail?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWP4FryCqsw

Hopefully this link will work, this is a video of how the engine was before it got fixed. Mechanic said a mixture of bad spark plugs and blocked Lifters.

Couldnt get the diagnostic to start today :happy:

Edited by awsam
awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted
that def sounds like there is no oil getting pumped up too the head is your oil pressure gauge showing anything at all ?

Yah oil pressure gage is usually above the half way mark, bounces around slightly depending on temp and how spirited I'm driving lol But generally stays above half way.

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Now that it's cooled down in Adelaide a bit I'm finding that the Hicas & Power steering thing isn't happening at all unless I've driven my car for quite a while. So seems heat related. A search in google found me 3 solutions other people have had. One person replaced the speed sensor, another replaced a specific capacitor in the hicas unit or something that was leaking black stuff on the circuit board, another simply unplugged his battery to reset the computer. I haven't tried any yet since it cooled down. Seems like a common problem with R33's after searching it, I'm surprised there aren't more detailed solutions especially on here.

5LTBETR Proficient

5LTBETR

Posted
Posted

ur power steering pump is f**ked,

the knocking is the bearing in the front of the pump, once the sensor on the power steering line under the motor senses pressure drop , it routes all the fluid bypassing the rack,

get a new pump.

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted
ur power steering pump is f**ked,

the knocking is the bearing in the front of the pump, once the sensor on the power steering line under the motor senses pressure drop , it routes all the fluid bypassing the rack,

get a new pump.

How much does one of them go for? Is it a big job replacing?? Are you going by the video I posted? Because that turned out to be blocked Lifters :D Your description sounds about right though ^_^

  • 3 weeks later...
awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

**UPDATE**

Went to Synergy to plug into their scanner and my Hicas wouldn't respond at all. Didn't matter if Hicas light was on or off.

Leads me to think a thread I found in google about a transistor in the Hicas computer leaking black stuff could be the cause. Need to try and borrow a working Hicas from somewhere so I can plug it in and test it out as I can't afford to buy a new one and just wait and see..

  • 3 weeks later...
awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Another update, Synergy put another HICAS in and still no communication.

**UPDATE**

Went to Synergy to plug into their scanner and my Hicas wouldn't respond at all. Didn't matter if Hicas light was on or off.

Leads me to think a thread I found in google about a transistor in the Hicas computer leaking black stuff could be the cause. Need to try and borrow a working Hicas from somewhere so I can plug it in and test it out as I can't afford to buy a new one and just wait and see..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB20 in need of modest love injection

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • QB6SAGR
      RB20 in need of modest love injection

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By Duncan · Posted

      FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...