Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Price indication;

-7s which come with actuators = $2600

-9s $2740 + $280 for new actuators = $3020

20 year old actuators are not worth using as the springs are likely to have softened with all the heat cycles, and have softened differently so you'll get surging as they fight.

Yep ears burn ...

The GT2859R's complete assemblies part number 707160-9 is actually a GT28 turbo because of its turbine wheel .

In Garretts GT ball bearing range there are two GT28 turbine wheels , both are 53.8mm major diameter and 9 bladed but the trim sizes are 62 or 76 .

So when looking at GT25 or GT28 BB turbos note the turbine diameter and trim and blade number , 53.0mm and 62T and 11 blades = GT25xxR where 53.8mm and 62 or 76T and 9 blades = GT28xxR .

GT = Garrett Technology , 25 or 28 etc = turbine family , 59/60/71/76/82 etc = compressor wheel major dia in mm , R = rolling element ball bearings .

Soo since you can buy those GT2859R's AKA GTSS's at a Garrett price thats what I'd do . If you get a little too much grunt just back the boost off a little , I wouldn't buy lower tech units to make a power ceiling .

If you order these GT2859R's as Pn 707160-9 you don't get waste gate actuators , if you order GT2859R's as Pn 780371-1 you get the same units with Garrett supplied actuators . I suspect HKS order the former part number and fitted their own whatever spec actuatotrs .

My contribution .

Probably the wrong place to ask but I'm in the poo ATM over a new hybrid I had built and have to have it changed again , turbine and its housing . I could really use a second hand S15 Silvia spec BB turbo or turbine housing , the one I have was machined to suit a larger turbine than I need and you can't reliably sleeve them and re-machine for a smaller trim turbine .

Some years back I went on a mission to list all the GT30 turbine based turbos with unit and cartridge part numbers and I hope to do the same with the more useful members of the GT25 and GT28 BB turbo families in the near future - HKS and Garrett marketed ones .

Thanks in advance , cheers Adrian .

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁  
    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
×
×
  • Create New...